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Old 01-18-2011, 10:43 AM   #1
CarlG
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Default Oil Filter

Of the several types of filter "kits" available, which one seems to work the best and is user friendly when changing the filter?
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:16 AM   #2
dfish2931nc
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Default Re: Oil Filter

Definatly the one from "Mikes Afforable". Advantages being it filters all the oil, and you can fill the new filter with oil when you change filters. That way the engine has oil immediately going to the main bearing when first started after the oil change. There is also no internal connections to be messed with when the valve cover is removed. The filter itself is verticle, so there is no oil mess as there is with the horizontal filter design. I don't work for any vender, but have had experience different oil filter designs.
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:21 AM   #3
Dick Deegan
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Default Re: Oil Filter

CarlG;

I use the full flow filter that I purchased from Mike's several years ago. I works fine and has the advantage (I guess) of passing all of the oil through the filter before it goes into the galley.

It is a bit of a nuisance to install and also when you adjust valves. It's not a big issue, just tricky.

I don't know if it's better than the bypass filter. I do have higher than normal oil pressure (about 4 psi at 45 mph) and I wonder if the filter is restricting flow and causing the pressure to go up a bit. I don't think that any restriction in the flow is a good thing for a Model A engine. Having said that I have had no problems with my motor.

I think that either is OK.

Dick
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Old 01-18-2011, 12:38 PM   #4
Dave in MN
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Default Re: Oil Filter

I agree with the posters above. Of the readily available kits, I use and install Mike's A-Ford-Able on engines I rebuild. Mike's kit, filters most of the oil the pump moves...far more than the side timing gear cover kit. The filtered oil is delivered to the same area of the valve chamber floor as a stock system.

Dick, The increase in pressure you are noting on your oil pressure gauge is from the resistance of the oil going through the routing pipe and the filter. The flow is not greatly reduced if your oil pump is in good to new condition.

I run a filter on the driver (Phaeton) shown in my avitar. I have over 50,000 miles on this engine and it still shows no sign of fatigue. I change oil every 2500 miles and do not need to add oil between changes. I have not had the pan off the engine since the rebuild...the filter has to be a contributing factor.
Good Day!
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:10 PM   #5
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Default Re: Oil Filter

Don't forget....a lot of oil escapes out through the distributor gear/camshaft opening, unless the rotation of the gears forces back somehow.
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:17 PM   #6
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Default Re: Oil Filter

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Mike's Affordable no longer carries the vertical mount "Avery" filter kit but has the conventional one (includes the new valve cover etc.) shown here http://www.mikes-afordable.com/miva/...gory_Code=1083
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:51 PM   #7
rob mcdonald
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Default Re: Oil Filter

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlG View Post
Of the several types of filter "kits" available, which one seems to work the best and is user friendly when changing the filter?
You may want to read the article in the “Model A Times” Volume One, Issue Three, July 2005.

The first filter kit reviewed, “A Ford Able Full Flow” is nearly a full flow but the filter is in the horizontal position with the bottom pointing outward. This kit is sold by most of the Model A suppliers.
I presently have one and recognized immediately that about 50% of the oil in this filter position drains back into both the valve chamber and some % of that backward into the pump. This means that after the car sits the oil pump must pump maybe 6 to 10 ounces to refill the filter before any oil is fully flowing into the valve camber and then to the mains.
I do not like the delay of oil flow! I have just purchased an expensive adapter to mount the filter vertical to keep the filter full and able to push oil into the value chamber immediately. Also less mess with the vertical.

The second filter kit reviewed was the “Timing Gear Cover” partial flow and I do not know if this system is still sold. But the review by “Model A Times” stated “ineffective”.

The third filter kit reviewed, “A Very Oil Filter” was sold exclusively by Mike’s and I had two prior to the “Model A Times” article. I liked this option because of the vertical no mess position of the filter with no major oil drain back plus the partial bypass instant flow.
This filter kit provided a copper sleeve to place around the oil pump drive gear that forced roughly 65% of the oil through the filter.
The drawbacks I heard for this filter is the “uneven mounting” of the filter adapter on an original valve cover that turned the filter into a vertical no mess position. Also the copper sleeve was not tightly mounted by one buyer.
This filter is no longer sold by Mike’s but he has had several people ask for his design primarily due to the no mess no drain back design.

If you could see the inside of the first filter I replaced on each of my three installations you may be amazed at the amount of heavy dirt particles the filter trapped. I kept the first filter on my last installation to try to find a camera that will capture the dirt.

This points out how effective a filter may be for our dirty old Model A’s. Also it is important we change the filters frequently until we are confident the filter will not become blocked and depending on the type of filter kit starve the engine of oil.

I am interested in the experience from others with filters.

And I realize there are many who have driven 100,000 miles on the original Babbitt and only change the oil twice. Oh and the oil was 2nd hand from the family sedan.

The FordBarn is great.

Last edited by rob mcdonald; 01-18-2011 at 10:16 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:11 AM   #8
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Default Re: Oil Filter

I bought a "remote filter kit sold for hot rods etc. " It cost $24.95 I got it on Ebay ...I bolted it to the flange that runs along the firewall using the existing bolts on the flange using a small piece of angle iron the filter is mounted by the fuel filter bowl it is upright and I can change it easy without spilling a drop of oil! ...I ran 3/8th inch heavy black fuel type hose down to the oil pump hole in the block using an adapter then removed the valve cover and drilled and tapped it for 1/8th inch pipe threads for another adapter this is where the output of the filter goes and it dumps into the front of the valve chamber ...I removed the return line from the filter stuck it in a cambells soup can and started the engine the can filled quickly so flow through the filter is fine ...I can also check it any time by holding my hand on the filter it gets hot indicating good flow ...I have had the filter on now for almost 2 years with no problems and have been changing the oil every 2000 miles ...The oil looks very clean even at 2000 miles and I am thinking of going to a 3000 mile oil change ...This filter IS NOT a full flow filter BUT every few minutes all the oil does go through the filter and gets cleaned ...Just in case I added an oil pressure gauge connected up at the filter input so I KNOW there is oil flow AND I know the oil pump etc. is working properly ... B0B in Michigan
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Old 01-19-2011, 03:45 AM   #9
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Default Re: Oil Filter

Bob , can you put a picture for us here ( for those who are intrested ? ) to show the way you installed it ? Thanks.
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Old 01-19-2011, 02:28 PM   #10
rob mcdonald
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Default Re: Oil Filter

Also Bob is there any name or part number on the casting where we might be able to purchase. This seems to be both simple and cost effective. We do not need 100% filtering. Also for someone who makes the decision to change over to detergent oil there is a lot of dirt that needs to be trapped. On a fully filtered system that could lead to an engine starved for oil flow if the filter is too dirty. You system will filter and not starve the engine for oil. Your system can be much less expensive.
Thanks for bringing your system to our attention.
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Old 09-01-2014, 03:07 PM   #11
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Default Re: Oil Filter

I see this is an old thread, but just for the record most spin on, full flow, oil filters have a by-pass valve to allow oil to go around clogged media. However some don't when the by-pass valve is built into the engine. I would hope the people that made the kit did their homework.
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:18 PM   #12
Bob Wright
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Default Re: Oil Filter

Mikes Affordable full flow oil filter works well with the vertical adapter available @ some "A" parts venders, and also Speedway motors as well as other speed shops. We have one on our Victoria and it works good. I also have used the kits on 2-previous A's, with the vertical adapter,WOW what a mess trying to spin the filter on when full with oil.
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:25 PM   #13
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Default Re: Oil Filter

Speaking of the vertical adapter...does anyone know if the dual carb intake can be used once the vertical adapter is added? I'm aware that it cannot be without it but would like to run dual carbs eventually but am unwilling to give up my oil filter...
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:26 PM   #14
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Default Re: Oil Filter

The article from the Model A Times is several years old. The A-Ford-Able style filter is sold I see it in Snyder's A-6705-F. I also add an adapter to turn the oil filter 90 degrees so that it is easy to install and remove with oil in it and not create a mess. The one is a Ford Racing part that I picked up from Speedway motors.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:29 PM   #15
Chris Haynes
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Default Re: Oil Filter

For years I ran a Frantz Oil Cleaner on my AA. It is a bypass filter that keeps the oil sparkling clean. I will have it on again when I finish my ground up rebuild.
www.wefilterit.com
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:35 PM   #16
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Default Re: Oil Filter

for those of you having trouble draining the oil from a horiz. mounted filter, just position a bucket or container of choice under the end of the filter (or get a helper), and using a hefty awl (I use an old screwdriver with the blade ground to a point) and a small hammer, punch a hole in the bottom of the filter and allow it to drain before you spin it off
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:47 PM   #17
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Default Re: Oil Filter

KMederedith:You can run dual downdraft carbs with the vertical adapter shown in John Levoys pic above. Dual updrafts I don't know.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:02 AM   #18
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Default Re: Oil Filter

I built two of the vertical type in the machine shop a few years ago for a customer. I end milled a square opening on the right end of cover for a piece of metal approximately 3/4 inch thick and brazed it in place. Been awhile back and can't remember, but used an aluminum part off of a 352 ford pickup engine that made a right angle that the oil filter screwed on to vertically. I transferred, drilled and taped bolt holes in plate for the aluminum part and drilled the necessary oil holes for the oil line and taped the inside hole for the oil inlet pipe. Remember we had to figure out if the oil feed in threw the center of the filter or the outer ring, again can't remember now which way. Don't know how he connected the oil line to the engine oil feed hole. I have always intended to build one for myself since he said his worked good.
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Old 09-02-2014, 11:49 AM   #19
CarlG
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Default Re: Oil Filter

Since I started this thread over 3-1/2 years ago, I can report that I did indeed install an A-Ford-Able filter unit (I think I got it from Mike's, but most vendors have them). I also am using one of the 90 degree adapters shown in post #14. I bought mine on eBay since Speedway won't ship to Alaska.

Bottom line is that it works really well and have no problem with spilling oil everywhere when changing the filter.
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:09 AM   #20
Harley03joe
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Default Re: Oil Filter

What Do You Guys Think Of The Timing Side Cover Filter ?

Model A Oil Filter Kit
The plate mounts on the front of the engine where the timing side cover is. Easy to install with no modifications at all. U.S.A.

From Snyders Antique Auto
A-6705 $99.00 / ea.
1928-31
Please Let Me Know Ok
Thanks
Harley03joe




Last edited by Harley03joe; 07-14-2015 at 01:22 AM.
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