1929 double a won't start, help

[ETAModel]

Im far from being an expert, but did someone say your coil is a 12V? I have a 6V tractor and I replaced the coil with a 12V coil. She would be hard to start then ran rough until she died. Then we'd start over and the same thing.
I finally removed the 12V coil, dug the old 6V out of the trash, and she runs like a dream.

Just a thought.

[jg61hawk]

I updated my last post.... so if you missed it here's a shot of what I think we all need...and I have no idea how to tell a B distributor from an A distributor but someone here does.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingcovers.htm

[nkaminar]

This might be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu7g3uIG6Zo. It is an overhead valve engine with fuel injection but the principles are the same. When I was learning this 70 years ago I memorized the 4 strokes as: Suck, Squeeze, Pop, Fooey.

This also may be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWFhdjKJAI
There may be other Youtube videos that are helpful too.

[Rob Doe]

Dan, JG61, the model B engine has a different pattern to the water pump bolts. The A is mounted with 4 bolts and the B engine has 3. A picture of the water pump and its mounting will tell the tale on the B or A engine.

A model B distributor is taller??? It has an automatic spark advance in the bottom of it. The B engine times at 19 degrees advance; thus the timing pin hole is in a slightly different location in the timing gear cover. The cover has a long flat boss that allowed the cover to be used for both A and B engines. (Only one casting served both engines). That last info courtesy of one of Tom Endy's articles. I just read it yesterday!

[1crosscut]

Need to know if that valve is moving or not. If your able to see the valve then pull out the rest of the plugs if you haven't already and have someone crank the engine while you look at it. If it isn't moving then it needs to be freed up.
I would not be comfortable with trying to push it down through the spark plug hole.

If stuck pull the manifolds and valve cover so you can see what is going on.

[katy]

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Originally Posted by Danny Boy

He said he changed that distributor body with one from a mode t (in French t and b do sound a lot alike so maybe I heard that wrong).

I suspect you did hear him wrong.

Model Ts don't have a distributor, they use a low voltage unit called a timer.

There were a flock of aftermarket distributors made for Model Ts, but they wouldn't fit a Model A.

[katy]

Originally Posted by ETAModel

Im far from being an expert, but did someone say your coil is a 12V? I have a 6V tractor and I replaced the coil with a 12V coil. She would be hard to start then ran rough until she died. Then we'd start over and the same thing.
I finally removed the 12V coil, dug the old 6V out of the trash, and she runs like a dream.

Just a thought.

The middle picture in post #51 shows a 6 volt coil.

[Danny Boy]

It's 6v and battery is 6v and positive goes straight to the frame.

I've include the up skirt pic you guys want so badly. Lol
Timing pin is in all the way, it's been grinded into a point and easily falls in place.

I just pushed her for a few rotations and that valve is moving but not going down all the way and neither is #2. Not as bad as #1. #3 almost feels flush and 4 I'm not sure about yet.
It's hot as hell today and just successfully installed a new starter on my minivan so I'm taking a break and taping myself on the back 😁. Atleast I got 1 fixed.

[jg61hawk]

When I spoke with the previous owner he mentioned having alot of trouble timing the truck.
He said he changed that distributor body with one from a mode t (in French t and b do sound alot alike so maybe I heard that wrong).

Your timing cover looks to me to be a Model A cover so that is a good thing. The previous owner having perhaps put in a distributor from a Model B is probably not a good thing...I'll defer to others on this....

[1crosscut]

Thinking a bit out of the box here if you don't have access to a compression tester.

Bring it to top dead center on the compression stroke.
Use some Play Doe, a moist rag or such to make a seal around a tube or hose going into the #1 spark plug hole. Blow air into the cylinder with your mouth to see if air passes easily. If it does then you probably have valve troubles.

[nkaminar]

An easy way to test compression is with the hand crank. If it pulls easy on any of the cylinders then the compression is low on that cylinder.

[Danny Boy]

Anyone know where I can buy/order a timing Wrench.
The nu hex website doesn't ship to Canada. And every Canadian site is out of stock for them.

I just found a deep 1 3/8 socket I think will work, I might have to make a handle but I'm getting tired of pushing her around.

1crosscut good idea, gonna use a hose like you suggested

[1931 flamingo]

"I just pushed her for a few rotations and that valve is moving but not going down all the way and neither is #2. Not as bad as #1. #3 almost feels flush and 4 I'm not sure about yet."


Try spraying some Liquid Wrench, Kroil, or Brake Cleaner thru the spark plug holes on the exposed part of the valve and guide.
Paul in CT FWIW

[jg61hawk]

any updates?

[Danny Boy]

Ok I'm back. Sorry life got in the way so I haven't done much on the truck. I did add marvel mistery oil a few times and cranked the starter a few rotations to spread it around.
It really helped because when I checked today I had movement in my valves, sticking a bit but alot better.

So today I opened the valve cover and added alot more marvel oil.
I went shopping and bought myself a 6v light circuit tester and a 1 3/8 box wrench. I cut the wrench and welded it back with 2 90degree bends so no more pushing the truck for me ��.

I took a good look at the timing with the light tester and I understand what you guys been saying about the timing and yes I had it wrong.

I let the oil soak all day while I made my wrench and messed around with the timing.
Then I blew some air through the spark plug with help of my compressor and added a little more oil and blew some more air and with my trusty new wrench spun that engine.
Valves where opening and closing nicely so I reassembled everything.

Now here's where it gets weird.
I noticed 2 things that made my brain go WTF ???

#1- setting the timing pin.
I've seen pictures or the dimple and my timing pin has been sharpened. It's very easy to see the pin fall into the dimple but i can keep rotating with the wrench and the pin doesn't t pop back out until I'm past the #2 piston pin in the distributor body.
So the timing pin drops in but I can rotate until the distributor rotor goes past the #2 pin, then it slowly comes out and it keeps moving out until I pass the next pin (I think it's #4 piston, firing order is 1, 2, 4, 3 I believe).
Then it starts moving inwards past that #4 pin and keeps moving inwards the whole time as it passes by the #3 piston pin and then falls flush as it reaches the #1 pin again.
Same thing happens if I apply pressure on the pin and I cant feel the dimple in the gear, the pin just falls flush.
So is it possible that gear is at a angle? And is that something I should be worried about?
So the pin sticks out about 3/8" at maximum and goes in slowly as I turn until it hits the pins shoulder, I can't feel the dimple.
Tomorrow I'll find something the right diameter and sharpen it to make a longer pin and see if I can't find that dimple.

#2 this guy https://youtu.be/mwirH7f0a9o
This video shows how I was trying to set my timing with the light tester.
It's a great way to do it if you can't get a nu hex timing wrench.
It works perfectly If I hook up the tester ground to a engine bolt and the other tester tip on the points moving arm.
It gets weird when I use a engine bolt as ground and hook up the other one to the coil instead of the points moving arm (like he does in the video). When I do it that way my light is always on? Light only goes off when I turn the key to off.
I tried flipping the coil around and get the same result (as mentioned before I wired that coil exactly like the old coil, + is on passenger side - on driver side).
I've tried both way and get same result, light is always on as the points open and close.

After assembling I tried starting her up and got a big 0.
Good news is I think my sticky valve problem is fixed, I'm not getting any gas blowing out the wrong way anymore.
But my guess is timing is completely off because the pin is simply stopping at the bolt shoulder before actually hitting the dimple.

[1955cj5]

I think it's time you took the side timing gear cover off so you can take a look at the condition of your cam gear.

Here is a picture for reference.

Don't forget the bolt that comes through the pan flange on the bottom....

.

[Danny Boy]

Mine is different, my oil filter connects there.

Mind you I'm typing this from my bed and will confirm tomorrow morning.

[nkaminar]

Check your camshaft gear as 1955cj5 recommended.

Points should OPEN when #1 piston is at TDC. You can look in the spark plug hole to know when #1 piston is at TDC and don't need to use the timing pin. But make sure it is TDC for the power stroke not the intake stroke.

Check the points gap before you time the car. Should be 0.018 or very close to that. Check the gap with the points at the most open position.

If the light is always on the points are not conducting. Clean with point file or 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper and make sure they are closing. If the gap is not correct they may not be closing. Or change to a new set of points.

The Nu Rex wrench is handy but verify by checking to make sure that the points are just opening at TDC (with ignition retarded).

[Danny Boy]

Here's a pic, ya my oil filter attaches there.
My gap is good I have already checked, I also gapped my sparks to. 035 yesterday while I was at it.

Points are conducting fine, and my testing light goes on and off just like it should at the correct rotor position as points close and open.
The light is always on when I do the same test but at the coil instead of the points.

[Danny Boy]

Bough a steel 5/16 rod this morning a made a new timing pin.

Found my dimple its 180 degrees off where I thought it was.

My timing wheel is at angle, that has me confused.
I have a few things to do this morning so I'll get back to it this afternoon.

Should I open it up to take a look at the timing wheel or should I just set my timing and try to start it?