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06-13-2016, 01:14 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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New member 1st post Pop out switch question
My first post trying to figure out this forum! I have been working on my uncles unrestored 28 touring got most every thing working we took it for a few rides just when I thought it was it reliable no start! I traced down to the switch I tested with ohm meter open between wire on top and contact in dist. My question is how to take switch out of dash cover and take apart I assume that is we're the trouble is, it was I think intermittent problem for a while I can't figure out how to ad pictures
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06-13-2016, 02:40 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Jersey shore
Posts: 257
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
Search the forum for the switch disassembly. First disconnect your battery. Remove the head nut on #8 stud. Remove the screw and lock nut from the pass. side on the head, this holds the Distributor from coming out. Pull the dist up out of the head and wiggle the cable lug off the stud and unscrew the dist from the cable it only should be in like three turns or so. Remove the clamp that holds the speedo cable to the firewall and remove the four screws that hold the dash panel to the gas tank. Carefully pull the dash out while pushing on the speedo cable from where it enters the tunnel under the tank. When you have enough room, disconnect the wire that is connected to the switch head. There should be three small screws that secure the switch head to the dash, loosen them and rotate the switch head and free it from the dash. Pull your switch head with cable from the tunnel. You might have to remove the amp meter connections to get enough room to remove the switch. I've never taken a switch apart but I know the procedure is on this very informative sight. Try shopping for some model a repair books as they are handy to have.Hope this helps and good luck. 78 at the jersey shore and I've been out catching some wind.
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06-13-2016, 03:57 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
Welcome, and do you know the exact test for an original popout?
In the off position (pushed in) the points contact on the end of the cable is GROUNDED. In the on position (popped out), the ground is removed and the brass contact is connected to the terminal on the side of the switch. When I do the checks I also like to push the spring loaded contact in and out to make sure it doesn't touch ground at any time when the switch is on. I also flex the cable around in case the wire has lost insulation and grounds intermittently. |
06-13-2016, 05:34 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sacramento Ca
Posts: 1,179
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
IF you have to remove the head bolt to remove the cable make sure you drain the water from the radiator and block
IT WILL LEAK PAST THE HEAD BOLT |
06-13-2016, 07:36 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 934
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
Attached is the Ford engineering drawing for the 28-30 Electrolock popout switch.
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06-13-2016, 08:13 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
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06-13-2016, 08:34 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
That is an Electrolock popout switch. The later 30/31s used a different design popout. I have always (since 63) used a popout switch on all my As and never had a problem. However, you must clean them and replace the wire from the switch to the distributor. A little TLC helps and sometimes you may need to work it a little bit.
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06-13-2016, 09:28 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
Just be sure to NOT used WD-40 on the potmetal of the switch. It will make the potmetal swell and bind.
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06-13-2016, 10:44 PM | #9 |
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
Welcome!!!
I would send it to someone that has restored them before. The pot metal can become brittle and is easy to break. To keep the look and feel of the original I would look at the pop out look alike switches that are sold.
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
06-14-2016, 06:30 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
Thanks guys I got it apart the pot metal swelled up I had to pry it out of the dash cover. It came right off the cable that's why it wasn't working when I pushed it on a little it made contact. I may be able to wire or clamp it together to make it work. For now we can jump it run the car at least
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06-14-2016, 11:36 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,591
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
Dick Crabtree restored mine, not sure if anyone has his contact information to shre right now, I can find it if you're interested.
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1928 "A" Phaeton (mid year with many early features) 1933 "V8" Closed-Cab Pickup Truck (originally a Model B, 4 Cylinder dating to May, 1933)
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06-15-2016, 10:57 AM | #12 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 8,754
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
X2 on Dick Crabtree 605-487-7229. It will come back looking and working like new.
Bob |
06-16-2016, 06:27 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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Re: New member 1st post Pop out switch question
thanks guys for all the advice! this is the first pop out switch I have ever seen! the pot metal is going bad but I think I have a good farmer fix. I safety wired the switch to the cable. it tightend up good and holds the wire button tight. drove car around seems fine,if it does give trouble at least now I know how to jump it to get it going again
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