1947 Ford Flathead Clutch Replacement

[Sprattman]

Hello,

I have a 1947 Ford Four Door Super Deluxe V-8 Flathead (suicide doors) with 59AB engine and 3 on the tree transmission and am experiencing slippage in the clutch so have ordered a new clutch. Reading through Ford Barn posts, I read that I have a choice to either remove the engine or the rear end and saw a few tips and tricks on the rear end method and how it may be desirable. My ask is to have someone share their step by step experience so I am clear on working on the right things and avoid performing actions that are unnecessary or possibly dangerous, say like removing the axles or springs or whatever. BUT I do want to do what is right and order the right tools and prepare accordingly. It would suck to do a lot of rear end work only to realize I need to pull the engine... Thanks in advance. Dan

[Bob C]

Here is a link to a how to from Van Pelt's.
http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flath...ns-removal.htm

[cas3]

Do you have free play on the clutch pedal? an inch or so?

[19Fordy]

I found it easier to pull the engine. Plus, it gives you the chance to clean up the engine compartment. Take photos of where everything goes.

[wga]

19Fordy's advice is the way to go. So much easier. Removing the hood, keep track of the hinge fasteners, and those washers.

[69a]

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If you do it by taking out the engine. Carefully mark where the hinges bolt to the cowel. I prefer to drop the diff, with wheels removed. You can change the clutch from the top. Make sure to use a spigot to align the clutch plate. And it is possible to put the clutch plate in the wrong way around. Proud face forward, from memory, check it, you don't want to do it twice.

[Sprattman]

As always, tremendous feedback and great insight. I appreciate your responses.

I'm thinking through what more value I can get from either pulling the engine, which I've spent a ton of time restoring, re-wiring, painting, etc. versus removing the rear end, which I haven't had a look at. Thoughts on what "information" would be better obtained, and lessons learned by pulling the engine versus removing the rear end?

[19Fordy]

Sprattman: Since you have already restored your engine and compartment to perfection, it might be a good idea to pull the rear and slide it back so you can ascertain what other parts require attention that you have never inspected like the universal joint and torque tube bearings.

Be sure to replace the clamshell seal with the new style neoprene one available on Ebay. Be sure to reinstall the clam shell with the grease fitting pointing down so it's easy to grease. Also, check to see if your torque tube center bearing is still intact.

You will have to bleed your brakes as the brake line near the X member must be disconnected in order to roll the rear back. Inspect that line to see if you need a new one.

Make very sure to support your car on jackstands with front wheel chocks.

I found it much more difficult to reinstall the rear than sliding it back due to floor pan clearance. Had to use wedge shaped wood pieces between the frame and floor pan.

Take plenty of photos as you go and don't lose any parts and don't forget to reinstall your speedo gear and your new clam shell gaskets. Lube U-joint with John Deere cornhead grease.

Do a search on removing flathead Ford rear end. One last thing:
DO NOT LOOSEN OR REMOVE THE HINGES WHERE THEY BOLT TO THE COWL. If you do, hood alignment will be a huge problem.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Sprattman: Be sure to replace the clamshell seal with the new style neoprene one available on Ebay.

[Sprattman]

Originally Posted by cas3

Do you have free play on the clutch pedal? an inch or so?

Yes, I do have free play on the clutch pedal about an inch or so. Let me know what you're thinking here in terms of if that is normal, or if it affects something for what I'm experiencing. The clutch has performed well and I wanted to test the power of the car and let it out quickly. One time too many and now there is a clear slipping of the clutch when initially engaging. Eager to hear your thoughts on this.

[Sprattman]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Sprattman: Since you have already restored your engine and compartment to perfection, it might be a good idea to pull the rear and slide it back so you can ascertain what other parts require attention that you have never inspected like the universal joint and torque tube bearings.

Be sure to replace the clamshell seal with the new style neoprene one available on Ebay. Be sure to reinstall the clam shell with the grease fitting pointing down so it's easy to grease. Also, check to see if your torque tube center bearing is still intact.

You will have to bleed your brakes as the brake line near the X member must be disconnected in order to roll the rear back. Inspect that line to see if you need a new one.

Make very sure to support your car on jackstands with front wheel chocks.

I found it much more difficult to reinstall the rear than sliding it back due to floor pan clearance. Had to use wedge shaped wood pieces between the frame and floor pan.

Take plenty of photos as you go and don't lose any parts and don't forget to reinstall your speedo gear and your new clam shell gaskets. Lube U-joint with John Deere cornhead grease.

Do a search on removing flathead Ford rear end.

19Fordy, I can't thank you enough for this clear information and perspective. This is extremely helpful. Thank you.

[Ken/Alabama]

You’re going to need to have the flywheel resurfaced so in order to do that the oil pan will need to be removed. Might want to think about removing the engine. It can be done without removing the hood. Done it many times.

[Automotive Stud]

When I did my '47 I pulled the rear. I feel that's easier. Disconnect the yoke on the Ebrake cable, pull the U bolts on the leaf spring and remove the rear track bar from one side. With the toe board out you can remove the clamp at the rear of the trans, then drop the rear and roll it back a few inches. From there unbolt the trans and you can pull it up through the floor, or drop from underneath if you prefer.

[Ford Freak]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

You’re going to need to have the flywheel resurfaced so in order to do that the oil pan will need to be removed. Might want to think about removing the engine. It can be done without removing the hood. Done it many times.

Ken is correct. You absolutely must resurface the flywheel at this time!
If not, you may have the dreaded "clutch chatter" after you get it all back together. Then it has to come apart again, and this time the engine has to come out to remove the flywheel. As always JMHO. F F

[Sprattman]

Update: I pulled the rear end out and all looks good. Gives me a chance to clean up the banjo/drive train, the underside, and thinking about adding some Rustoleum Pro Grade undercoating. Any tips on surface rust removal and prep to make it easy would be appreciated. I previously have done a few removal and prep techniques but this is a larger job and want to keep rust dust low and not spend endless time on this (maybe use WD-40 on a scuff, use sandpaper, use a wirebrush, etc...).

Key issue on transmission removal is that I simply don't have the clearance to pull the spline out far enough, as the rear end (U-joint, mounts) keeps hitting up against the back of floor pan. Wrestled for 4 hours with rotating, wiggling, etc then conceded the day. I read about a chap who found his problem to be a clutch pressure plate installed that protruded 1/2" into the transmission, and that is about the amount I need. He managed to unbolt the U-Joint with some very long extensions which I'm considering but unsure of my success there (will look at it this morning). I'm also considering just cutting some of the floor and pulling it back to get easy access, and then weld back in later. Need some expert advice on these choices, especially on cutting the floor and welding back in. I don't think there's anything critical to consider with the cut method, and as I found some rusted spots in the removed floor plate, I need to do some welding anyways.

[joe 1950]

just a suggestion now’s the time to re-seal the trans leaks and maybe pull the cover check the working internals and just from experience when resurfacing the flywheel make sure it’s done on a milling machine not a surface grinder good luck

[19Fordy]

You shouldn't have to cut and reweld your floor pan.

Not sure what you mean when you say, "as the rear end (U-joint, mounts) keeps hitting up against the back of floor pan." You should be able to roll the rear end assembly back far enough to "slide" the u-joint off the transmission. See the photo 4 in my post. I used wooden wedges to raise the floor pan up.

Can you post photos of this problem you are having?

Check this out.
http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flath...ns-removal.htm

[69a]

Have you removed the rear wheels? I never had a problem with floor pan clearance.

[Sprattman]

19Fordy, it looks like you have a floor pan that extends back, while mine does not go back much at all so have little room to move the transmission back. Rear wheels removed. I hope the photos I post show the issue a little better.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Sprattman

I hope the photos I post show the issue a little better.