I Want to Buy a Model A

[JAKEFORD]

I have a hankering to buy a model A. I never had one. Had a lot of V8's and modern engines but no Model A.

I don't know what to look for in today's inflated market. There are a lot for sale in the 12k to 40k range but the ones below that look like junque.

I don't mind doing some work but want a solid car at a fair price.

Can anyone help?

[53RYDER]

Jake-

I too am hankering to buy an 'A'. I'm working overtime and saving it up. Should be ready by next spring to buy. I have friend at my church who is a long time 'A' owner (40 years) and when I get closer to buying I plan on using him as a resource and have go with me when I go looking. Is there an Model A club nearby that you join? Or at least ask someone to assist you? My 2 cents!


Glenn (newbie)

[160B]

QUOTE=53RYDER;1152085]Jake-...................... Is there an Model A club nearby that you join? Or at least ask someone to assist you? My 2 cents!
Glenn (newbie)[/QUOTE]

Mike Kelly is a great point of contact.

Evergreen A's
Box 15133 Wedgwood Station
Seattle 98115
2nd Thurs 7PM
Westminster Chapel, Bellevue
Mike Kelley
253-630-2629 253-630-2629

[C26Pinelake]

Make sure you analyze your needs first. Just you and your wife any model will do, the more kids or passengers you plan to carry your needs will change. Obviously the pickup and coupe without rumble are for 2 people. The Fordor is great for lots of company and the sport coupe, roadster and Cabriolet are your sport models. Don't just buy an A because it is cheap. If it doesn't meet your needs it is not cheap at any price, Wayne.

[jeep44]

Here's a little advice from a guy who should have known better: Don't be misled by a pretty paint job-get under that car with a flashlight, and check the condition of the running gear-see if the owner was more interested in polishing the car than crawling under it to grease it on a regular basis. The condition of the things that aren't normally seen will tell you a lot about how the car was maintained.

[53RYDER]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

160B: My friend is an Evergreen A member.

jeep44: great points for any buyer of any old car



Glenn

[DJ S]

Make sure you buy the best Model A you can within your budget! I can't stress this advice enough to someone who has never had experience with Model As before.

[harleynut]

Ask for receipts.....paper work....anything that has a date on it , such as a motor rebuild. Seller can tell you anything, I like proof. Just my two cents.

[Gil Sissons]

You have already been given some good advice here.
Contact local club for help.
Most often they know local cars pretty well.
Secondly....unless you are just hankering for a project...
you will usually buy a completed car far cheaper than you can
Build one.
Gil. NoCal

[Vanspeed]

I had never wonder a model A before I got my 29 from a member on here. It is the most fun car I have ever owned. I agree with buying the best you can and if there is a local model A club, ask them and let them steer you in the right direction.

[Mitch//pa]

what area are you located in eastern pa?

[a guy]

I have a 1929 roadster for sale. Total restoration done by professional. 11.3 miles since completion. Show or drive your option. No need for tool box with this "A". No expense spared in bringing car to better than new condition. Located in CT. What is your budget? Can provide more info. Purchased to help blind man's family in need of money.

[mhsprecher]

You should be able to get a nice driver for not a lot of money. It depends upon what you want. Lots available out there, so take some time looking, deciding which fits best and the body style you like.

[Terry, NJ]

Those low-priced cars look like 85 Y.O. junk cause they are junk. The only redeeming quality about them is their age. Steer away from fancy paint jobs (They're probably the wrong colors anyway, No, they weren't all black, just the fenders and running boards) I have three , a Town Sedan and two coupes. I paid $1500 for the Town Sedan at a farm auction. It was a rat. I didn't know anything either. Now I wouldn't have even bid on the car.But it was my first mod.A and I'm five years into the restoration. Check my profile and go to my album "My A". My second one was the Coupe I paid $5000 for and although it has body issues, it runs pretty good. It's an older restoration that wasn't really up to the standards of today's restoration shops. My last one is a pretty good car but the guy who painted it forgot the primer under the paint. Another cheap restoration! Also the steering box had to be rebuilt ($$$) and the rest of the steering components, Pitman arm, spring shackles, king pins, etc. It has a nice engine and running gear and a good body under the paint with no primer. Do I feel cheated by these discrepancies, well maybe a little. Since I plan to keep these cars, I will correct them as encountered.
Terry

[J Witt]

I paid a substantial sum for my car, but for that I got my money's worth in prior finished work and parts. In my situation I no longer have the shop available for bodywork and painting or disassembly of large parts. I did get a car that was in need of many minor adjustments, finishing incomplete assemblies, etc., all of which were within my scope. It has turned into a pleasurable daily driver.

So it depends on what you want and how much you can spend. The minor fixes and rebuilds are what make the car yours and will always be an ongoing part of owning an old car.

Find the swap meets and clubs and shop there where you can see the oil and coolant leaks, the rust and other discrepancies. Good luck with the search.

John

[JohnLaVoy]

You need to figure out what you plan on doing with the Model A. Is this going to be a driver and you will tour around the county, a show car and you will take it to car shows etc. The next thing is body style. The roadster, phaeton open car is sporty and fun looking. But the convenience of roll up windows is great if touring is what you want to do.

Join a local chapter of the Model A club and see what they are doing. Attend a Model A event and see what the show cars are like. Then make your decision. The price is some what predicated on how rare the body style is but you can look at www.mafca.com and see what some of the prices are there.

[Kevin in NJ]

First off you need to understand what a Model A was when it was new.

The car was designed to run 60 MPH on the crappy roads of the day. The engine was precision (think building a race car engine today) built on the line. It would get over 20 MPG and the brakes worked great. By 60 MPH that means people beat the crap out of the cars and expected 50,000 or more miles out of the engine before major work like pouring bearings. Obviously, a lot of driving was done slower, but people would run over 55 MPH all day long for tens of thousands of miles.

So that is the standard you should expect for a car with a correct mechanical restoration to factory specs (Note, I am not saying Judging Standards).

So if you get in and find the steering wheel has a bunch of play, the brakes feel like only slow you down, and the engine has lots of vibrations then you can expect to spend over $10,000 to make the car safe to drive. Assuming you are not set up to do correct major Model A work. Years ago I know of 2 professionally restored cars that were bought. One was a museum car. Both cars needed over $8000 in work to be reliable and safe to drive.

So if you get in a car and it feels odd, not comfortable to drive, then expect it to need a lot of work. If you get the car up to 55 MPH and it feels comfortable to drive then hit the brakes for a panic stop and it stops with authority (remember it is drum brakes with thin tires so the brakes are not like todays cars) and does not feel squirrely then you might have a well restored car.

A car with reciepts from known engine rebuilders with a good reputation. Brakes changed to cast drums and shoes arched and centered. Lots of NOS or good in tolerance original parts in critical areas. Then you are likely looking at a decent car.
If they used all reproduction parts in the mechanicals then it may not be so good depending on where and what parts.

So there are a lot of items to consider. Basically if the owner talks about taking his basically original car out for rides and runs 55 MPH all day long then you likely are going to have a better car. If the owner goes on telling you the Model A is only a 45 MPH car then likely the car he owns is unsafe at 35 MPH.

[holdover]

Do a search on this site about buying one. If you do not know much about these cars you need to find someone that does. Joining or contacting a local club is a good start, BUT not everyone in a club is an expert. An engine rebuild if it needs it and proper body work is going to be two of the most expensive parts of a restoration, if it is already done you need to research how well it was done and by who. You will need to get down on your back and look for rust everywhere, and the places that it was fixed if there was some. Rolled up foil and Bondo does not make proper body work. If you can do the work yourself that is an advantage, but it will be time consuming. As has been said buy the very best that you can afford, but make sure it is as it appears. Best of luck in your search, we all have been down this road.

[C26Pinelake]

Take your time and shop carefully. No impulse buying. Take somebody with you that knows Model A cars not just old cars. They are unique in themselves! Wayne

[ronn]

Do you want a tudor sedan or a roadster? ( or another body style)?

A #1 todor sedan is worth a #3 roadster, etc. for example. The body style you choose will help dictate the price. If money is no object, pick a rare body style and your enjoyment will also be an investment.