Speaking of engines

[Tinker]

Found it online.


http://www.goldengatev8.org/tips/Evo...heFlathead.pdf

[tomcarman]

Thanks all for your input. I got called to an actual paying job so I didn't get a chance to further inspect the engine today. Being retired having a paying job for a few days is a real treat. I'll put the money into the Ford account for later use and maybe even buy a 6 pack of cheap beer. Right now even getting to the engine is a bit of a challenge so I'll report back on the findings when I can, likely with more pictures. I've been told by a well respected fellow Barner it was somewhere between a '33 to a '37. I'd like to narrow it down a bit more if possible so I'll take the preceding posts comments seriously upon further inspection. My Dad was a big time flat head guy, hence all my questions. Me, I might as well be Sgt. Schultz as "I know nothing!" I'd like to try and rebuild this at some point if the block checks out OK but for now I consider it a long term project. I'll report back with more info soon. Thanks again all!
Tom

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by deuce lover

Its clearly a 21 stud. 36 and earlier. If it was '38 it would have the water pumps in the block.Pull the intake and see if its a vented block.If so it might be an LB.

One more question. What is an LB? I've seen it referenced but I don't know what it is.

[Tinker]

My understanding is Lined (removal) Bearings on the crank. Prior to the 36lb's the crank bearings are babbit.


Like most things ford of the area, just because it was made in 36 doesn't mean it's a 36lb. The production line moved and it was big. Lot of things ran out or was used before being changed over.


Reason my frame in 38 was already drilled for hydraulic brakes but was installed with cables. Ramping product at that scale is a system. Reason my 38 truck buckets are also the same as 36 cars. It was a big moving machine.



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[Tinker]

Early 38 was a change over year also. After feb most 38s had 38 blocks with pumps in the block and 24 studs. Some received 37 blocks (a one yr with all the goodies for early blocks) into 38. Why the 37 blocks are neat. They are used for replacement blocks for early fords as they are 21 studs with all the goodies. With a block off plate you can run early heads and water pumps.


I couldn't find the the video were (think it was skip and gm) had a 37 motor with both block water pumps and head water pumps for fun. Still looking for it. Used to be a fun thing.


A old racer I knew said they would run 37 21 bolts with water pumps in the block and the early heads reversed to get water out of the back of the block faster. I thought he was full sh!t till I swapped heads on an old 35 motor. They will flip and bolt down. No idea how that effects compression chambers.


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[deuce lover]

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Its not a '37.37's had the water pump in the block.Its 36 and earlier.Pull the intake to see if the block is vented (right front will be a vent tube)or look at the oil pan -front right at where it bolts to the block.The vent would be there.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Tinker

I couldn't find the the video were (think it was skip and gm) had a 37 motor with both block water pumps and head water pumps for fun. Still looking for it.

Voila! DD

[Tinker]

Think there is a video also. Think it was a marketing tool for a bit. Thanks DD!

[Bored&Stroked]

Two pumps HAVE to be better than one! LOL

[38 coupe]

The pdf article linked above is the short version of the thread we did on this website about a decade ago. If you really want to identify your engine read through the thread. I re-posted my pictures again at the bottom of the thread since photobucket decided they needed money for what they promised would be free and I don't feel like paying...
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25301

[deuce_roadster]

The quickest way to tell that is a 21 stud engine is that there is a head stud at the 6 oclock position at the bottom of EACH cylinder hole. That is DEFiNITELY a 21 stud engine.

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

The quickest way to tell that is a 21 stud engine is that there is a head stud at the 6 oclock position at the bottom of EACH cylinder hole. That is DEFiNITELY a 21 stud engine.

Thanks Mike! Now I see it. I'd heard there was a quick way to tell but never had it explained like that. Not knowing much I always had to count the studs and usually got confused and had to start over. Maybe I can get out there tomorrow for further inspection and report back with more pics.

[deuce lover]

Another quick way is the bottom row of studs should be 5 for a 21 stud.

[cas3]

I always look at the center studs. 3 in a row vertical, 21 stud. An upside down Y 24 stud

[tomcarman]

I took a closer look and some more pics. It is 3 1/16" bore with a flat intake deck. There is a vent tube in the front passenger side shown. The oil pan is on it. I found the bent up clip looking thing inside the engine after I took the manifold off. Is that the distributor clip? I took pics of both water inlets. The manifold has the number 2 on it and the existing carb is a Stromberg. Thanks for your help.
Tom

[tomcarman]

A few more. As a conversion piece I found the water pump rebuild kit and added it for fun.

[Charlie ny]

Most outfits with a hot tank will not dunk an assembly. Any alum or babbitt will pollute
the liquid in the tank.
Charlie ny

[Zeke3]

It looks like the last guy that worked in that engine left his tool for pulling the valve guide retaining clips in there.

[tomcarman]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

It looks like the last guy that worked in that engine left his tool for pulling the valve guide retaining clips in there.

If you're referring to the clip I found in post #35 first pic I was looking to identify it. Is that what it is? BTW I'm pretty sure the last guy to work on it was my late Father and he most likely would have left it inside for use later. The intake manifold was completely loose and I merely lifted it off and found it.
Tom

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

The quickest way to tell that is a 21 stud engine is that there is a head stud at the 6 oclock position at the bottom of EACH cylinder hole. That is DEFiNITELY a 21 stud engine.

Originally Posted by deuce lover

Another quick way is the bottom row of studs should be 5 for a 21 stud.

Both great ways, on a glance, to tell whether its a 21 or 24 flathead.

I use the 3 down the middle vs 2 studs down the middle of the head method.