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Old 05-27-2015, 08:08 PM   #1
harleynut
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Default radius rod ball

This is on a 1930 Phaeton. The two bolts that hold the ball assembly on the end of the front wishbone to the bottom of the housing are stripped. Previous owner put it together without springs. Are these bolts threaded into the housing? If there straight thru, do I have access to the top of the bolts to get them out for replacement of do I have to pull the tranny and the housing.
Hope it's not that.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:18 PM   #2
pat in Santa Cruz
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Default Re: radius rod ball

its a challenge, but you can get them out. Pull the wishbone down and block it with a piece of wood to get clearance, remove the top ball socket, pull the small retainer pin, pull out the felt if there is one, then push the stripped bolt up while using your fingers inside the bigger center hole to feed it over to the hole and out. To install new ones, it helps to run a string or wire through the bolts cotter holes, feed it through the casting bore for the bolt. Then gingerly place the bolt as close to in place as you can and while pulling the string, tease the new bolt through. Once they are both in place, align the slots so the retainer pin can slide through and re install the felt and the pin.

Last edited by pat in Santa Cruz; 05-27-2015 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:21 PM   #3
Russell in Tulsa
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Default Re: radius rod ball

Good description Pat.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:53 PM   #4
Bob C
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Default Re: radius rod ball

This is what they look like.

Bob
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:55 PM   #5
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: radius rod ball

Are you sure they are stipped? Check to see if the bolt is also turning when you turn the nut. If it is then you need to push up so the slot in the bolt head engages the cross pin.

This will also mean you may have to make a spacer to fit under the bolt head to lift the bolt high enough to engage the cross pin at all times. The bolt pockets get worn from vibration and the bolt drops lower.

Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 05-27-2015 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:03 PM   #6
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Default Re: radius rod ball

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Pat....that was great. Just what I needed. Thank you and others for the replies..
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:09 PM   #7
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Default Re: radius rod ball

Thanks Tom.....didn't know that either. will check it out
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:48 PM   #8
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Default Re: radius rod ball

I haven't done this - Yet But I've wondered about tapping the hole in the casting and making a stepped stud to go in there. The bottom end would take the existing nuts. A wire through each stud will stop them coming undone. Maybe not right for a show car but for a driver, I think ir would be fine and much easier.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:03 PM   #9
1955cj5
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Default Re: radius rod ball

Thanks for asking this question....I was under the impression that the radius ball bolts could only be changed when the bell housing was separated from the fly wheel housing...my entire assembly is loose and needs to be replaced..
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:58 AM   #10
Dennis Pereira
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Default Re: radius rod ball

I just installed a new kit since I have the entire drive train apart it made it easy . But I also installed a transmission shift rail seal so now there won't be any oil leaking to lube the felt . I think maybe I need to drill and add a grease fitting ?
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:25 AM   #11
COOTER
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Default Re: radius rod ball

I just had this same problem. I had to remove the bolts with a cut-off wheel. I guided the new ones in with some fishing line. Worked like a charm. You don't want to lose the bolts up in the housing or you will most definitely need to remove the bell.
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Old 06-06-2015, 05:08 PM   #12
1955cj5
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Default Re: radius rod ball

Quote:
Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz View Post
its a challenge, but you can get them out. Pull the wishbone down and block it with a piece of wood to get clearance, remove the top ball socket, pull the small retainer pin, pull out the felt if there is one, then push the stripped bolt up while using your fingers inside the bigger center hole to feed it over to the hole and out. To install new ones, it helps to run a string or wire through the bolts cotter holes, feed it through the casting bore for the bolt. Then gingerly place the bolt as close to in place as you can and while pulling the string, tease the new bolt through. Once they are both in place, align the slots so the retainer pin can slide through and re install the felt and the pin.
Thanks to harleynut and Pat and the others for this thread and information...

I was able to replace both old bolts, locking pin, cups etc. and it went pretty well...greasy, but other than that no issues..

The old aftermarket bolts fortunately had holes for the cotter pin so I attached a line to them before pushing them out, and then used the same line to guide the new bolts in. Excellent advice and it worked fine with a little fiddling...

Randy
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