Oil pressure gauge.

[jdp8402]

Can anyone tell me where the oil pressure gauge is supposed to hook into the engine block at. I have a 1929.

Thanks,
Jeff

[jdp8402]

Also what kind of engine oil should I be running?

[Marshall V. Daut]

On the right side of the engine, below the valve cover, there is a slot-head bolt that screws into a threaded port. It's just above the oil pan rail. Remove that plug and install the oil pressure gauge brass adapter there. Be careful when routing the line to the gauge! If it's a plastic line, be sure it doesn't get near the exhaust manifold. If it's a copper line, this isn't as critical, but it's still a good idea to keep the line away from the manifold and muffler.
By asking which oil to use, you are opening up a can of well-worn worms. You might do a search on this subject and plan to spend three or four hours reading years' worth of arguments back and forth about this oil or that oil. If your engine was just rebuilt, follow what the builder advises so that you can keep the warranty in effect. A rule of thumb, though, is: a new engine = detergent oil. A unknown engine = non-detergent. The theory being that if an unknown engine already has non-detergent oil in it, adding detergent oil will loosen up the crud clinging to internal metal parts and work its way into the babbit bearings and oil pump. Non-detergent oil in this case will maintain the status quo. Using detergent oil in a fresh rebuild is self-explanatory. The weight or viscosity should vary between seasons and environment.

Marshall

[jdp8402]

What weight would you recommend for warm temps?

[jdp8402]

I'll be using a non detergent because I don't know what's been ran in it in the past.

[Bitterclinger]

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If it were me, I would drop the pan and remove the valve cover. I would look closely at how the pan and valve chamber looked. Lots of crud,clean well and consider non detergent. If not crud , definatly use detergent.

[Pinesdune]

Lots of threads on the "what oil do I use " subject. I suggest a good quality diesel motor oil like Rotela T, either 10-30 or 15-40, if your running it below freezing then 5-30. But if your not sure what's been run in it before, it's an easy afternoon job to drop the pan and clean it out( just make sure you have the gasket set on hand [emoji6]) Any of today's oil is far superior to what she got in her the day she was made so type and brand of oil is up to you, but Babbitt bearings like oil a little "heavier"


Looking for the front bumper emblem that has "Ford, Made In Canada"

[jdp8402]

Thank you for the replies. I'm probably going to drop the pan to see what it looks like. I was just at my local napa store and they don't even have a non detergent oil. Also what weight should I use for the transmission and rear end? Some quick research says 600w but they don't have that either. Will 80w-90 work?

[Pinesdune]

Originally Posted by jdp8402

Thank you for the replies. I'm probably going to drop the pan to see what it looks like. I was just at my local napa store and they don't even have a non detergent oil. Also what weight should I use for the transmission and rear end? Some quick research says 600w but they don't have that either. Will 80w-90 work?

When you order your gasket set for the pan, you can order oil then, the threads mention what replaces 600w, but 80-90 is not heavy enough. It sounds like you should maybe give Brattons, Synders, or Berts a call (all model A parts suppliers) they will set you up with the right parts


Looking for the front bumper emblem that has "Ford, Made In Canada"

[Ron W]

When you hook up your oil gauge you will be disappointed! There will be little to no pressure. When it is cold it might show some. Ron W

[Bitterclinger]

The only thing about having an oil pressure guage is for the peace of mind that the oil pump is working or hasn't failed. I like it for the assurance it affords. When first started, you may get maybe 10-15 # but when warmed up and driving at road speeds, you will only read 2 1/2-3 psi. The pump just lifts the oil to the valve area and from there pressure is not used. I think it is just gravity to the bearings.

A lot of old car people use Rotella T 15\40 because of the zddp additive which is best for the flat tappet/cam system.

[jdp8402]

Ya I wish I would have known that about the pressure gauge before I purchased it. I found that out two days after I bought it. I also bought the temp gauge and a dual gauge bracket so I figured that I better keep it to fill the other hole in the bracket. How do people run the temp gauge cable and oil line into the cab? Do they drill holes in the firewall?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Don't drill holes. You can run the lines through the terminal box.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by jdp8402

Some quick research says 600w but they don't have that either. Will 80w-90 work?

600W is NOT 600 weight 600w is the name. Mobile make a cylinder oil called 600w.

It's about 140 weight.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...nder_Oils.aspx

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by jdp8402

I figured that I better keep it to fill the other hole in the bracket.

You can put a clock in there.

[sphanna]

My experience has been like Bitterclinger described. But I still like the pressure gage. It gives me insight into how fluid the oil is with a very cold start. I ocassionally drive my car on very cold days when the road is dry and with no salt. My heater works good. On these days I allow warm up to start to drop the pressure some. This comforts me with the idea that the viscosity is such that I know that gravity is sufficient to allow flow to bearings. Then I feel ready to drive.

[Fullraceflathead]

Oil pressure cold will be about 6, 7 lbs at most.
Warm will be about 1 to 0 lbs.
This is what i get on my Model A.

[sphanna]

That depends on the accuracy of our gages. Mine goes from 14-15 cold and stabilizes at about 2 1/2 when warm. I don't say that is actual pressure and it doesn't mater. Only benefit is whether pump is working. What the actual press is, is moot.