Float-A-Motor Problem

[Tom Wesenberg]

Your front mount is the original style. Some of the repro springs were too stiff and made the front of the engine set too high. I've bought springs fron Bert's, Bratton's, and Snyder's and they've worked fine. You might want the 4 rear mount bolts loose while you adjust the front.

[Lona]

Originally Posted by Bob C

See the link to Marco's site to make sure your springs
are not to tall and you have all the right parts.
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/mount.htm

Bob

Bob & Tom,
Thanks for your input and link to Marco's site showing the diagram of the dimensions and parts I should have for the front mount. I didn't think about a problem with the front mount because the crank fit fine before changing the rear FAM doughnuts. Also didn't know this was the original type front mount.

Springs that are too tall or missing parts could be the problem. The previous owner altered the rear FAM doughnuts and may have incorrectly played with the front mount as well. I will check the springs now mounted in the car when I'm able to get back to where the car is stored early next week. It's frustrating to have a project interrupted like this because of having to be away from home and I hope you all will be patient if you don't hear from me immediately regarding your suggestions. I will post my findings as soon as I can.

Thanks, Glen

[Lona]

Finally got back to work on the FAM problem. See photo. The old parts are in the background & the new parts up front. Several of you were correct, the old springs are 1/2" longer than the new ones and were probably 3/4" bigger when they were new. And they do have rubber inside the springs.
How do the new parts install? Per Marco's original Ford diagram, it looks like the flat composition washer goes on the yolk stud first, then the 5" long arched steel spring with the two new coil springs. The brass bushing installs from below the cross member along with the smaller spring, nut and cotter pin. Is this correct? I'll get the mount installed soon as someone can confirm the assembly sequence.
Hopefully, this will allow the engine to sit lower and allow the crank handle to properly engage.

Glen

[Bob C]

The brass bushing was not used after Jan 29, it was replaced with
a flat washer A-22323. Bratton's catalog says the washer was 3/16"
I can not find the washer listed in any of the Ford parts books but
it is shown in Marco's drawing.

Bob

[Lona]

Bob,
Thanks for responding quickly. After my last post, I went to Snyder's catalog and found a diagram of how things go together. They show the parts sequence as I described, including the brass bushing which they note is for '28 thru '31. The washer that goes on the yoke first in my repair kit is 1/8". Will install and see how things work out.

Glen

[Lona]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Bob,
Thanks for responding quickly. After my last post, I went to Snyder's catalog and found a diagram of how things go together. They show the parts sequence as I described, including the brass bushing which they note is for '28 thru '31. The washer that goes on the yoke first in my repair kit is 1/8". Will install and see how things work out.

Glen

[Lona]

Thanks to all who responded with suggestions on my front mount problem. Got everything together today and did a road test. The vibration I had is considerably less now and I can actually clearly see cars in the rear view mirror where before they were just a blur.

Turns out the front mount problem was two problems instead of one. First, the springs I took off were too long which required tightening the yoke center nut to the point where the springs were fully compressed, thus no vibration isolation. Second, apparently the hole in the cross member had worn too large so the previous owner welded a 1/4" plate on the top of the cross member and drilled a new yoke hole in that plate. This made the excessive elevation of the motor even worse. I was able to install a new front mount spring kit but could not install the brass bushing above the lower spring because the welded plate interfered with the bushing going up into the cross member. However, everything else is installed and working fine.
Again, thanks to all who replied with advice.

Glen