Dual Exhaust on '41 Pickup

[Cartravel]

I bought the complete exhaust system (headers, Smithy's, exhaust pipes) from Red's. I've read the archives, so I know this has been discussed before, but since I've never put one together I was hoping to get some help here. I was not sure about the routing of the the system through the frame, especially since it didn't seem to fit very well. I got the 22" Smithy's, but still had to take the manifold lose in order to put it together. The mock up is shown in the photos. Does this look to be correct? If it is ok, I'm going to have to do quite a bit of bending and cutting to keep it from colliding into the frame. From the previous discussions, this may be normal. I agree, shorter mufflers would be much better.

[Cartravel]

With the tight clearances involved in this system, I would also like some advice on hangers. Where you do put them and what type do you use?
Thanks,
Larry Young

[JSeery]

Looks fairly nice in the photos.

[bbrocksr]

Hi Larry, Reds are the best, I put the complete set on my 36 pickup. They require a little cutting and fitting in the clutch pedal area and the tailpipes are a little too long which is good so you can trim either end to center the hump over the axle. the clutch pedal hits the pipe when the clutch is depressed fully. I had to heat and bend it down a little.
But really a nice set when you're all done. Reds are really good quality material.
Bill

[39portlander]

My neck now hurts from the first several photos, the last one felt better

Larry here are some pics of my 39 exhaust that was completed last month. I got Reds headers with the extension pieces. I added flex adapters off those extension's were I felt a lot of movement will be as our Flathead/transmission are on rubber mounts.

I put my Smithy's "behind the cab" again, I thought it might be a little less noisy and the floors would like that too. The fella who bent and installed my exhaust after the Smithy's added hangers in the last two pics.

One note, on the driver side after the headers, I had to make a nice bracket to hold my speedo and E-brake cable away from the header extension pipe. Hope this helps you. You can see I'm currently working on fitting my bed sub frame, thank you Northern Classic Truck! Scott

[skidmarks]

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One thing I found that makes duals on a model a chassis up into the late 40's is to use 1953 and later ford tractor mufflers. Smaller and shorter then smithys. Cheap and common to find at napa and tsc.
Ive iinstalled a lot of them but I bend my own pipes. The reds stuff is nice and I have used it for other people that supplied their own parts.

[donald1950]

when i did duals on my '41 pivk up all teh pipes fit as well as yours. going under the frame on the drivers side is dificult as it will be tight with the wishbone, depending on the wishbone to frame clearance.

one thing i had to do was take it to a good muffler shop who could make a short piece with some fancy bends to clear the frame and clutch pedal when the clutch pedal was depressed and then i still had to make a small ballpeen dimple to give a little more clearance with the clutch pedal was completely depressed.

[Cartravel]

Do you normally cut slits at the junctions to make the clamps work better?

Thanks for the help. Nice to know I'm on the right track.

[40cpe]

Hi Larry, changing directions, excuse me. Given your background, I'm curious about the specs of the flathead in your pick-up.

[Cartravel]

Sorry for the delayed response. This project started as my son's high school ride, but since he is now 34, that ship has sailed. We bought a fairly nice project along with a parts truck, but the floors were rusted out and it had the normal right frame rail rust through. We got other parts to cure the frame and floor issues. We wanted to build it as a period type hopup. Nothing fancy, Offy 425 heads and dual Holley 94's. I had a Merc crank I found before they're price went to the stratosphere. We went through several 59AB blocks before we found one that had no cracks and didn't require sleeves everywhere. It is bored 1/8 and we put in Skat rods and offset ground the crank for 4 1/8 stoke. I'm picky about cams. It seems like most of them overcam these engines. I bought one, but after I degreed it, I discovered the seat-to-seat duration was off from the specs by more than 10 degrees. I sent it back and had Bill Stipe grind one that is 250 seat-to-seat and 220 at 0.050. I hope it will be a good street cam. I'd sure like to get this truck on the road.

[Cartravel]

I'm still putting this exhaust together. It looks like rattles will occur against the frame rail behind the muffler. Do you normally hog out the frame to allow more clearance? I'm still wondering what to do for hangers so it doesn't move around and rattle.

[Cartravel]

I've got the dual exhaust installed except for locating some suitable hangers. What do you guys do about the brake lines. I rerouted mine, but it is still very close at the master cylinder. I moved it as far as I could and then wrapped that section of pipe. I hope it doesn't get too hot.
Larry

[Roger/Sacramento]

1941 Pickup with Fenton headers and extension lays like this. I bought pipe from muffler shop to extend to the Smithys and beyond. I wrapped the pipe and will be having a shop make modification to give more clearance to the master cylinder.

[39portlander]

Here is my master cylinder arrangement using a mustang MC and adapter from ECI, the front brake line goes forward and over the exhaust approx. 2" and follows the frame forward the rest of the way.

Larry you gotta rotate those pictures up, its hurts to bend my neck to the right and view that pic. Good point about wrapping the exhaust in that section. Scott