|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
07-13-2018, 12:04 PM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Saint Louis, Los Angeles
Posts: 82
|
Engine ID - check my math
Picked up this pile of parts for super cheap. I think I see some T parts mixed in, so I don't know if these V8 parts ever went together or if this was a pile of leftovers.
Based on my research, this is: An approx 1941 block because of the "raised" intake area, A Mercury because of the round center coolant hole. I believe I can faintly see a "14-T" on the bell housing. I've read that a "014-T" is a 1940 85hp school bus, where the 141-T and 214-T are 90hp from 1941 and 1942. I've also read that pre-WWII engine block numbers don't really mean anything and the true numbers were on the trans, which I don't have. I have no valve train or connecting rods or distributor. Which rods or valve train would you put in a daily driver? I've read that you can swap rods and I don't really want split valve guides. When I'm shopping for parts, what "era" am I looking for? I'm thinking the 01A/11A/21A Ford or 09A/19A/29A Mercury with the distributor off the front of the block. Please, check my math. I'm new to V8s.
__________________
Nathan - 1929 Closed Cab Pickup, 1929 Tudor, 1930 Coupe, 1941 Pickup - Vintage BMW Motorcycle Collector/Mechanic |
07-13-2018, 02:23 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 821
|
Re: Engine ID - check my math
Do a check of the bore size to verify it's a Mercury engine.
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
07-14-2018, 08:57 AM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: sw minnesota
Posts: 4,543
|
Re: Engine ID - check my math
never seen an oil filler tube like that before
|
07-14-2018, 03:01 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 8,732
|
Re: Engine ID - check my math
I'd go with 8BA style valve assemblies, I believe a full kit is available for not too much money. I'd use a 59A type cam and 2 bolt cover and a crab cap. I'd use 8ba type rods and bearings but you'd need a 8BA crank with the two oil holes per crank throw.
Mart. |
07-14-2018, 08:03 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,356
|
Re: Engine ID - check my math
The oil filler tube appears to be a fuel tank filler pipe adapted to the breather stand/fuel pump stand. I’m guessing they were trying to angle the breather forward to clear the firewall. Block is 41 or early 42 with the raised intake feature. Measure the bores as suggested.
__________________
VANPELT SALES LLC Cincinnati, Ohio Office: 513-724-9486 www.vanpeltsales.com www.classictransmission.com |
07-14-2018, 08:21 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lee's Summit, Mo
Posts: 338
|
Re: Engine ID - check my math
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
07-15-2018, 10:28 AM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,371
|
Re: Engine ID - check my math
It's a prewar or wartime 239 truck block. You can see the factory reliefs. The oil filler for trucks were different but I don't know what they looked like in that time frame. The crankshaft has the single oil passages so it's for the floater type bearings.
If the block is good, it would work well with aftermarket aluminum crow foot chamber heads. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|