Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Early V8 (1932-53)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-13-2018, 12:04 PM   #1
Nathan_1929
Member
 
Nathan_1929's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Saint Louis, Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Default Engine ID - check my math

Picked up this pile of parts for super cheap. I think I see some T parts mixed in, so I don't know if these V8 parts ever went together or if this was a pile of leftovers.

Based on my research, this is:
An approx 1941 block because of the "raised" intake area,
A Mercury because of the round center coolant hole.

I believe I can faintly see a "14-T" on the bell housing. I've read that a "014-T" is a 1940 85hp school bus, where the 141-T and 214-T are 90hp from 1941 and 1942. I've also read that pre-WWII engine block numbers don't really mean anything and the true numbers were on the trans, which I don't have.

I have no valve train or connecting rods or distributor. Which rods or valve train would you put in a daily driver? I've read that you can swap rods and I don't really want split valve guides.

When I'm shopping for parts, what "era" am I looking for? I'm thinking the 01A/11A/21A Ford or 09A/19A/29A Mercury with the distributor off the front of the block.

Please, check my math. I'm new to V8s.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0739.jpg (85.1 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0745.jpg (74.5 KB, 96 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0743.jpg (40.9 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0737.jpg (53.2 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0742.jpg (60.2 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0736.jpg (49.7 KB, 76 views)
__________________
Nathan - 1929 Closed Cab Pickup, 1929 Tudor, 1930 Coupe, 1941 Pickup - Vintage BMW Motorcycle Collector/Mechanic
Nathan_1929 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2018, 02:23 PM   #2
GaryU.
Senior Member
 
GaryU.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 821
Default Re: Engine ID - check my math

Do a check of the bore size to verify it's a Mercury engine.
GaryU. is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 07-14-2018, 08:57 AM   #3
cas3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: sw minnesota
Posts: 4,543
Default Re: Engine ID - check my math

never seen an oil filler tube like that before
cas3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2018, 03:01 PM   #4
Mart
Senior Member
 
Mart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 8,732
Default Re: Engine ID - check my math

I'd go with 8BA style valve assemblies, I believe a full kit is available for not too much money. I'd use a 59A type cam and 2 bolt cover and a crab cap. I'd use 8ba type rods and bearings but you'd need a 8BA crank with the two oil holes per crank throw.

Mart.
Mart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2018, 08:03 PM   #5
Mac VP
Senior Member
 
Mac VP's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,356
Default Re: Engine ID - check my math

The oil filler tube appears to be a fuel tank filler pipe adapted to the breather stand/fuel pump stand. I’m guessing they were trying to angle the breather forward to clear the firewall. Block is 41 or early 42 with the raised intake feature. Measure the bores as suggested.
__________________
VANPELT SALES LLC
Cincinnati, Ohio
Office: 513-724-9486
www.vanpeltsales.com
www.classictransmission.com
Mac VP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2018, 08:21 PM   #6
26 lakes
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lee's Summit, Mo
Posts: 338
Default Re: Engine ID - check my math

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
It is a Mercury block. Check for sleeves also. I have two 39-40 style Merc blocks that were sleeved.
26 lakes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2018, 10:28 AM   #7
rotorwrench
Senior Member
 
rotorwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,371
Default Re: Engine ID - check my math

It's a prewar or wartime 239 truck block. You can see the factory reliefs. The oil filler for trucks were different but I don't know what they looked like in that time frame. The crankshaft has the single oil passages so it's for the floater type bearings.


If the block is good, it would work well with aftermarket aluminum crow foot chamber heads.
rotorwrench is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:29 PM.