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#41 |
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I hope I am not taking over OLd golds thread but a few truck pic is always good .
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#42 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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#43 |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 2,890
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It's nice you two guys can share, but Ted, I would love to see you start a thread about those trucks. Is that wrecker done? And what about the pickup in the middle of the 3 pics above? Your trucks are over the top in my book.
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'47 1/2 ton pickup next project, '47 one ton panel 99% stock nearing completion, '47 2 ton with 8ba and 9' script stakebed, '46 1/2 ton woodie project,'59 F350 9' flareside pickup with cummins 6at. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#44 |
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OK GB ,some shots your have seen before
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http://www.flatheadted.com Last edited by FlatheadTed; 12-23-2020 at 03:31 PM. |
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#45 |
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Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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#46 |
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#47 |
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Eastern CT
Posts: 44
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Back to the bumps. My 34 has them to allow for the protruding bumps in the sides of the truck bed which allow space for the shocks to function.
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#48 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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Got my bed floor and wood underlayment delivered today. I ordered thru Ecklers and paid about $850 less in shipping charges than the price Mack Hils quoted me for shipping... and parts still come from Mack Hils. The bed floor tin is a little wonky but I expect it to smooth out once I start assembling everything. I am not impressed with the wood though. I wish it was closer to original and the cuts are horrible. I’d buy the bed tin again but would make my own bed wood next time. Just sharing my opinion hoping it helps someone. Oh, and to answer my original question in this post... no bumps.
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#49 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: imperial,mo
Posts: 581
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am not impressed with the wood though. I wish it was closer to original and the cuts are horrible.
You are correct, a school boy could do a better job than that! Tom |
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#50 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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I’ll see if I can clean the boards up with some filler. Otherwise I’ll be making my own boards. It’s too bad someone isn’t making the boards just like Ford did. I know it would cost more, but I’d be willing to pay to have correct, and nicely done, bed wood.
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#51 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,310
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Yes, wood work doesn't look to be up to Hils' normal standards, don't know what is up with that?
It sure looks like they could have done a better job. |
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#52 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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Definitely. It’d be hard to do a worse job. I know a lot of people have raved about Mack Hils, but I haven’t had the same experience with the two orders I’ve received from them.
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#53 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 4,762
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This could be a guess on my part, but since you saved $850 on the shipping and ordered through Mac's could you possibly have received "seconds".
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#54 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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Oh boy, that sure would be bad business. But why would any company wants to put out a crappy product when they’re capable of making good product. I received a message from a gentleman that received a similar condition bed wood but ordered direct from Mack Hils, so I don’t think this is the case.
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#55 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,310
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#56 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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I have been working on getting this Mack Hils bed floor tin to fit. 4 of the 6 bed to frame mounting holes are in the wrong spot, so I will be redoing this. Two of the other bed floor to subframe holes are way off. One thing I did notice about the dimples around the bed to frame mounting holes is that they are quite a bit smaller than the original bed floor dimples. The heads of the bolts are about the same size as the dimples so I really think this will look funny if I kept them as they come from Mack Hils. Since I have to relocate 4 of the 6 holes, I will machine some dies to stamp the correct size dimples around the holes. I can post pictures of that progress since I plan to tackle it this weekend, that is if nobody is sick of bed floor talk yet.
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#57 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: imperial,mo
Posts: 581
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I'm interested in seeing more of your work, post away!
Tom |
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#58 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 2,310
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#59 |
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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I decided to tackle this job this afternoon since it’s been eating at me. I machined tooling to replicate the larger factory dimples in the original bed floor. You can see my test piece matches the original dimple and is quite a bit larger than the Mack Hils piece.
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#60 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: SW WA
Posts: 194
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I flattened the incorrect dimples and filled the holes. I placed the pilot holes in the correct position after checking my subframe, frame, and original bed floor and stamped the correct size dimple with countersunk taper into the floor tin.
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