Engine Rebuilder Needed

[Bob Bidonde]

I need to purchase a re-manufactured Model "B" engine from a reputable shop in New York State. Please post their contact info?

[Will N]

Uh-oh Bob. Did you blow up the engine in your Vicky?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Bob, there are likely several good choices in your area however since you specified in NY state, IMO a very good choice for you would be Bob Bouldin in Belfast, NY. You can PM me either here or on Facebook and I will send you Bob's contact info.

[1931 flamingo]

You might try Go-Devil garage.


Paul in CT

[Will N]

Bob, I know you like to go fast, which is why you use B engines. Have you considered Terry Burtz new casting? It's a 5 main bearing job with inserts and full pressure. Fully balanced crank. 5 bearing cam and insert rods. Every other engine part is bolt-on stock model A.

[Bob Bidonde]

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The #4 Connecting Rod of the Model "B" motor in my Victoria failed. The rod's bearing cap came off and the rod punched a hole in the block alongside of the starter motor. At the time, I was driving home on the Northern State Parkway. There was no warning, just a horrible bang and lots of clatter thereafter. This engine had about 5000 miles on it since it was professionally rebuilt.

I have not come to an opinion as to why the #4 Rod failed. As I tear into the motor, I will post some photos of the broken parts. I am looking at the Burtz engine, but my piggy bank may not be big enough for it.


Thanks all for your replies.

[Will N]

Yikes! I once helped a guy to remove and replace his engine where the old engine was missing a chunk of the block right where your hole punched through. Only the hole had been fiber glassed over and painted engine green! Why don't you just patch yours up ;-) Seriously, how did the cap come off? Did the nuts come undone? Were they cotter pinned, lock washered or nylon lock nuts?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The #4 Connecting Rod of the Model "B" motor in my Victoria failed. The rod's bearing cap came off and the rod punched a hole in the block alongside of the starter motor.

I have not come to an opinion as to why the #4 Rod failed. As I tear into the motor, I will post some photos of the broken parts. I am looking at the Burtz engine, but my piggy bank may not be big enough for it.


Thanks all for your replies.

I (-and likely others too) can repair the block for you. I have a 1929 Marmon engine in here right now that the connecting rod failed and went thru the side of the block. This was a common occurrence with these engines and as such, there are not any replacements to be found at any cost. I made a plug in the shape of the damaged area (hole) and had a casting poured that is the same size & shape of the hole. We are stitching the replacement piece into the block, and having new connecting rods made out of 6061-T6 billet to keep it from happening again. You can do something similar with your block.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

As I tear into the motor, I will post some photos of the broken parts.

Condolences on your loss. Very interested in those photos. I'll be checking all my bearing clearances and torque in the next few months, so I'm curious whether this ultimately traces back to a bearing problem.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

Condolences on your loss. Very interested in those photos. I'll be checking all my bearing clearances and torque in the next few months, so I'm curious whether this ultimately traces back to a bearing problem.

Colin, one of the issues with a Model-A rod is the bolt (stud) is non-serviceable. An overtightened nut can actually create a stress riser where the rod bolt comes loose from inside of the rod. When this does, the cap comes apart from the rod and the loose rod can make a 'window' in the block. Because of the havoc, it is difficult at best to actually determine whether the bearing came apart or the bolt came apart first. Generally if the bearing comes apart, you will hear it rattle for a bit before it jerks the rod bolt out of the rod. That might be the only clue as to what happened first, ...and pictures won't tell us much on that.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

An overtightened nut can actually create a stress riser where the rod bolt comes loose from inside of the rod.

Do you have any special rules for torque values on the rod and bearing caps when you do them?

[tribouboys]

Ora and Jenn Landis at Schwalm's Babbitted Bearings is a solid choice for engine rebuilding. They are in PA.

[Dan McEachern]

B Rods have a design flaw that weakens the cap. The spotface for the nut, makes the cap thickness very thin on the inboard side. Some rod caps can be found where the spotface actuall has cut thru to the babbit side of the cap.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

I have not come to an opinion as to why the #4 Rod failed. As I tear into the motor, I will post some photos of the broken parts. I am looking at the Burtz engine, but my piggy bank may not be big enough for it.


Thanks all for your replies.

Bob, you won’t regret going with the Burtz block kit. It’s a smooth running engine. Everything about the block is better quality iron. Cam bore are straight and not worn out. There’s clearance with the beefy rods you don’t need a B pan. Pressure oil system. Many advantages to the new block.

[ronn]

Go Devil Garage offers stock or modified Ford T-A-B & V8 engine rebuilding in the Albany, NY area.

Babbitting
Pressurized Mains
Counterweighted Cranks
Chopped Flywheels
Line Boring
Hard Valve Seats
Reground Cams
Pressurized Oil Systems
Modern Rear Seals
Engine Balancing

All Performance V8 Work


Stock A engines include cylinder head and oil pan starting at $3500.

Website updated: Jan 14,2020

[nkaminar]

One rod bearing in my A motor started rattling and I replace the inserts on all rods before any damage was done to the journals. The new inserts from Snyders are wider so better. The rods have bolts and nuts rather than the studs in stock A rods. I was very happy to see that. New bolts and nuts can be ordered.

I will second the comments about the Burtz engine. You can get on the list without a deposit.

[Bob Bidonde]

I found a Model "B" motor on Long Island, and I am in the process of purchasing it. Thanks Brent for the offer to fix my block, but I fear the internal damage is severe. I hope that the piston did not damage the hi-compression head. Thanks all for your replies and suggestions. More to follow.


I am in the process of getting my 45B Coupe running again it having sat dormant since 2018. The Coupe also has a Model "B" motor that I built as a "Bangor," but it no longer has the go fast goodies on it.

Dan, thanks for the info re the rod cap stress riser. I will be on the lookout for that.

[nkaminar]

Bob, can you buy after market forged rods with bolts and nuts and inserts for a B engine?