VanPelt 47 Tranny Rebuild

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

I only see one problem in this rebuild. Now, it's too nice to put back in the car it would look great displayed on a shelf in a retro 1930's-40's Ford Parts Dept.

I thought the same thing.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by 1927Tudor

Looks to be a well done, well finished job, with great documentation. Did you feel that the cost was reasonable?

Originally Posted by Old Henry

The jury is still out on that one. So far, all I know is the cost of building the crate, shipping it to me and back, and the cost of the cluster gear. Nothing else.

Here's the total bill for my transmission rebuild including shipping:



Transmission was sent March 21st and received back May 4th. Mac had warned me he was backed up and there would be a delay getting to mine.

I sent my transmission with two problems to fix: First gear shot, and popping out of second when holding back on a descent. First gear is now nice and smooth and quiet (required replacement of the cluster gear and the first gear). Unfortunately, second gear still pops out. Really annoying. In one email there was discussion about replacing the second gear. That wasn't done. May have solved the problem. Syncros all work well so that's nice, but they were working fine before.

As for the reasonableness of his charges, that can only be determined by knowing what all of his competitors charge for the same speed and quality of work. As I have no information about that I can not say. I feel fine about his charges. I just wish the second gear popping out would have gone away.

I did get a nice result from my new clutch from Ft. Wayne clutch - my nagging clutch chatter is gone - at least for now. Hope it stays away.

[19Fordy]

That is a very fair price.
I doubt if there are still many people who really know
how to diagnose and can actually repair these old transmissions-
not just change parts and hope for the best.

[PeteVS]

Did you get a picture of the crate?? (I'm kinda like the kid who gets a toy and would rather play with the box it came in.)

[A bones]

Thrilled that you lost the chatter. I was one, certain to blame the fly wheel.

[Quote] Out of 5,794 views of my thread on the clutch disc problems* not one single person said, "That's the wrong disc" which it turned out to be.

Holding second is a drudge.

[Frank Miller]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Considering all was inspected and rebuilt I would make sure the shifter linkage is adjusted correctly.

[pooch]

Worn engine mounts?

[rotorwrench]

Your cost in that overhaul is well above board the way I see it. Labor rate is right along the norms for this day and age and times reflect someone who knows what they are doing and how long it takes to do it. The only way you could have done better would be to buy the parts and do all the work yourself.

That second gear relies on the condition of that phosphor bronze bushing in there. If it gets loose or deteriorated it will be problematic. Another reason for folks to stick with mild or no EP in their transmission lubricant.

[Krylon32]

Popping out of second gear would be annoying especially after spending that much on a rebuild. Did you contact VanPelt about the problem? I have a friend who used them for a 39 trans in a 32 , he was experiencing the same problem but it went away after the rebuild.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

That second gear relies on the condition of that phosphor bronze bushing in there. If it gets loose or deteriorated it will be problematic. Another reason for folks to stick with mild or no EP in their transmission lubricant.

I'm hoping Mack knew about that phosphor bronze bushing and replaced that as the possible cause of my problem. I sure don't know anything about it and didn't want to. That's why I sent it to him.

What is EP that you say to avoid in transmission oil? What oils have it to avoid and which ones don't that should be used?

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

Popping out of second gear would be annoying especially after spending that much on a rebuild. Did you contact VanPelt about the problem? I have a friend who used them for a 39 trans in a 32 , he was experiencing the same problem but it went away after the rebuild.

Just sent a note to Mac to see what his thoughts are. We'll see. Hopefully he'll post them here so we'll all know.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Your cost in that overhaul is well above board the way I see it. Labor rate is right along the norms for this day and age and times reflect someone who knows what they are doing and how long it takes to do it. The only way you could have done better would be to buy the parts and do all the work yourself.

I never asked Mac anything about cost. That was the least of my worries. All I wanted was a transmission that would work like it was designed that I could count on to take me wherever I wanted to go without any trouble. I just told him to do the best he could with the best parts he could get. Never discussed cost. It didn't matter to me as long as it got fixed. I learned long ago "You quickly forget the money you saved and long remember the junk you bought." I sent my transmission to the best that I knew with full confidence it would come back the best it could be. Maybe it did. If so, I'll just keep the bungi cord handy to hold it in gear crawling down the hills. Doesn't seem the best way. Certainly not what I wanted. But, maybe the best I can get.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Agree. I wouldn't hesitate to send a tranny to Mac he is by far the best in his field from all to whom I have spoken with on this

I will send mine off to him as soon as I'm able to wrastle that bugger out of the truck.

[JSeery]

EP is the Extreme Pressure additive that is added to gear oil. The EP content is indicated by the GL rating. GL-5 is has a high EP rating, GL-4 has a low EP rating. High levels of EP additives are required by modern rear axle gears but can damage (over time) yellow metals in transmissions. There are many past threads on this topic if anyone is interested in more detail.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Considering all was inspected and rebuilt I would make sure the shifter linkage is adjusted correctly.

I agree with that. Just putting the linkage back where it was before transmission was removed for rebuild does not mean that it's correct. Mac knows enough about these early Ford transmissions to make sure whatever causes popping out of gear is corrected in the rebuild, and I'm sure he would have done that. Check linkage and adjust if necessary.

[1942deluxe]

Also check the brass bushings on the steering column linkage and the linkage itself.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Frank Miller

Considering all was inspected and rebuilt I would make sure the shifter linkage is adjusted correctly.

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

I agree with that. Just putting the linkage back where it was before transmission was removed for rebuild does not mean that it's correct. Mac knows enough about these early Ford transmissions to make sure whatever causes popping out of gear is corrected in the rebuild, and I'm sure he would have done that. Check linkage and adjust if necessary.

Originally Posted by 1942deluxe

Also check the brass bushings on the steering column linkage and the linkage itself.

Will check linkage and report. I replaced the bushings/grommets.

[rotorwrench]

The 51A-7102 intermediate gear is an assembly. I've never seen the bushing sold separately due to it being so thin. A person just has to replace the whole assembly if the bushing is worn.

I think Mac has to modify now to use the 81A-7102 due to lack of availability of the 51A part so this can get expensive. The older type part has to have the earlier type main shaft with the locking pin to work if I remember correctly. If you can find an NOS 51A-7102 then it would just be a single replacement. Big if there. I haven't seen one on flea-pay for a long time and folks bid them up that know what they are.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by JSeery

EP is the Extreme Pressure additive that is added to gear oil. The EP content is indicated by the GL rating. GL-5 is has a high EP rating, GL-4 has a low EP rating. High levels of EP additives are required by modern rear axle gears but can damage (over time) yellow metals in transmissions. There are many past threads on this topic if anyone is interested in more detail.

Good to know. I just checked the jar of oil I just put in and it had both of those numbers on them - GL-4 and GL-5. I'll try to find just GL-4 next time I change the transmission oil.

[JSeery]

Both rating appear because GL-5 is backward compatible with GL-4 EXCEPT for the yellow metal issue. It's a shame to expose new syncros to GL-5, if it was me I would drain the GL-5 out and replace it. Some GL-5 gear lubes claim to be compatible with yellow metals, might check that out.