Converting to modern 6V coil

[Digger]

OK, I have done this a few times but can’t remember how to do it in the kit I bought doesn’t have distructions. How does the wiring go with the modern coil?

Any layman‘s terms and photos would be helpful, as I’m not a screwmatic kind of guy, my three window would run great the first time around, but when you shut it off after the first run, it would not start again, so the thought was the coil, original, was getting overheated.

[Brian]

The [red] wire that currently [pun] connects to the original coil will go the the neg terminal on your new coil, run another wire from + side of coil to that stud on the adapter plate, which also accommodates the wire from condenser. Run an HT lead from new coil to the receptacle in centre of your adapter plate.

[Brian]

Depending on your 'new' coil, if you still experience hot start issues, bypass the original resister under the dash

[Ken/Alabama]

Just have the original coil rebuilt and be done with it.

[koates]

If the original coil is being overheated then has it got the original resistor under the dash still connected. If the resistor is not in the coil circuit then the coil will be overheated. Dont know why you guys mess with those adapter plates. The original coil on top of the distributor is the best setup. That coupe of yours is very nice and therefore should have all of the original equipment on it. Regards, Kevin.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Yo, Digger ....These are actually TWO different cars, aren't they? If so, I love the look of this new one just as much as the first one, although I know how 'special' that first one was! You gonna give us some details on the one you're currently finishing-up? DD

[Tim Ayers]

Those skirts look killer!

[corvette8n]

Here are some directions I found with the one that was on my car when I bought it.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Brian

Depending on your 'new' coil, if you still experience hot start issues, bypass the original resister under the dash

The can coils should not be used with the original resister. They do not require a ballast resistor.

[Brian]

Agreed, however, I believe the points will last longer with the reduced primary voltage

[Kube]

Originally Posted by JSeery

The can coils should not be used with the original resister. They do not require a ballast resistor.

This is not necessarily true. Some, but not all "can" type coils have an internal resistor.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

Just have the original coil rebuilt and be done with it.

Yep.

[Digger]

…I was so close to a test fire….over tightened the nut on the cap stud, it snapped off…had to order another kit…see ya next week

[petehoovie]

[dean333]

Send your original coil to Skip Haney to have it rebuilt and updated. Problem solved forever.

[Digger]

Finally getting a chance to follow up on this. So more than one thing can be true. The modern 6 volt coil with adapter cap works great, and I also sent the original to Skip. Swapped back to that, and it also works great.

Both times went on a 30 minute nonstop drive up and down hills etc., got back to the barn, shut it off, start right back up, and both times it started instantly. The other thing that was causing the coils to overheat was as I found out (before the test drives) the radiator was nearly bone dry! So I added some coolant and water, definitely running much better now…

And one tip, but I’m sure everybody knows but just as a reminder, anytime you’re tightening down something that has a brass stud, go very gentle, especially if it’s an original piece over 80 years old. I busted off the stud on the starter switch under the dash, and also busted one off the adapter cap, had to buy another one

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Save some time and trouble , throw away the kit condensor znd replace with a RR175 from Napa