The Ford Barn

Nlbloch · 04-07-2013, 04:50 PM

I am about to embark on my first attempt at changing the head gasket on my 1930 Coupe.

Any suggestions on the proper way to do it, mistakes to avoid, and any other good general advice?

Also, I am thinking of changing the head to a high compression version. Thoughts on the pros/cons? Generally, I have tried to keep my car as authentic as possible. It is a driver, not a show car. I have heard that the head, once removed, must be inspected for cracks and possibly sent to be 'milled." If I am going to incur those expenses, perhaps this is the time to get a new head and the benefits of higher compression?

ford3 · 04-07-2013, 05:24 PM

remove the head by loosing the end bolts first and work to the middle, that way you wont get a warp in the head, install it in reverse order, check head for pits and cracks, have it check for straightness, if not straight have it milled, clean the stuck pieces of head gasket off the block and especially around the head studs, its a hard nasty job, one reason i use copper head gaskets, make sure the water goose neck and where it bolts to the head are absolutely flat, if not you will crack the goose neck, i use high temp silicone to seal that area, torque head to required specs, go around head 3 times, increasing torque at each pass then run engine till its up to temp. let cool and torque again, you will need to do that at least 3 times till the head nuts no longer turn, dont put antifreeze in engine till you make sure there are no leaks

Mitch//pa · 04-07-2013, 05:48 PM

first step drain antifreeze loosen head nuts and start engine to break the head free

glenn in camino · 04-07-2013, 07:05 PM

I just installed a 5.5 head. First I removed the head nuts and soaked the studs for a couple of days with Kroil. The old head and the studs came off easily. Then I had the new head surfaced at a machine shop. I installed all new hardened studs, the new head, and new nuts, torqued to 55 lbs. After running the engine for a while, to get it up to operating temperature, I torqued the nuts to 55 lbs. again.

31open-cab · 04-09-2013, 10:53 AM

When I got my engine rebuilt, it came with a "modern" head gasket with the sealer molded into the fiber type gasket. Was supposed to be great, but after repeated failures, I switched to a copper head gasket and water neck gasket and sprayed a couple of coats of copper tac on both sides of them before installation. The head gasket hasn't caused any trouble since! I know that the "modern" head gasket must have been my problem, because everything on the engine deck and head was checked to be flat and free of cracks, I followed all directions to the letter and my parts were "operating-room clean" I will only use copper head gaskets now.
When I change a head gasket: in addition to other's advice:
1.I scrape everthing down and clean with lacquer thinner before the new gasket goes on. Look for cracks!! Have the head and water neck checked for flatness.
2.I check for loose studs; if one is loose, I take it out and check to see if the hole goes through into a water jacket; if so, I wrap the stud threads with teflon tape to seal stud into the block(only on stud holes that go through into water jackets)(stud should all be tight)
3.If the ignition switch conduit clamp is damaged/galled where the nut will tighten on it, I replace it. I tried to reuse one that was galled and it would turn as I torqued the nut on that stud putting the conduit in a bind!(put a dab of grease on top of the clamp where the nut tightens on it to help prevent this)
4.Make sure you get one of those tools offered by one of the model a parts suppliers to tighten the head nut beside the distributor (so that you won't have to take the distributor out to tighten that one nut) To me this is a must.
5.Check for anything that looks odd about the valves/cylinders; after all, now is the time to notice something so that you wont have to pull the head again! Now is also the time to do any distributor work that would require pulling it out (if you have the conduit style ignition switch that would make distributor removal difficult after the ignition clamp is torqued)
6.When the head is torqued down in 3 steps I reassemble everything and pour coolant in. I start the engine and warm up for about 15 to 20 minutes in the driveway at a fast idle then slowing to an idle. I shut the engine off, and retorque the head nuts. I usually let it sit until cooled off and then go for a short drive and retorque when I get back home. Then go for a couple more drives and retorque when I get back. I always torqued the head on mine when it was hot after a drive. I just kept retorqueing after each longer drive until the nuts would hold the torque.
Whether this info is good or bad, it worked well for me and I wish I could have seen this before I replaced the head gasket on mine.
Just be methodical about it. I wish you best of luck!
Sincerely,
Braxton C.
aka 31open-cab

Duffy1 · 04-09-2013, 03:12 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I also installed the modern head gasket as did some more folks in our club and what we have discovered is that you have to retorque the head ( stone cold per instructions ) numerous times ( I did mine 5 times ) before the 55lbs holds rather than twice after initial torquing per the instructions . Went on a 1,000 mile trip in some hilly country running hard with no problems. Got back from the trip and retorqued the heads again. Made many 100 mile trips since then with no problems . Knock on. wood .

CarlG · 04-09-2013, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 31open-cab

...
4.Make sure you get one of those tools offered by one of the model a parts suppliers to tighten the head nut beside the distributor (so that you won't have to take the distributor out to tighten that one nut) To me this is a must.
...

Or a genuine Snap-On like this: (Photo by Ford Garage)

wrndln · 04-09-2013, 04:24 PM

If you use a FelPro copper gasket, it might be advisable to apply some gasket sealer around the holes where water flows. I did this on my last engine and so far, no seepage. This will help prevent water/rust seepage from the gasket down the side of the engine. I guess it doesn't hurt anything if there is seepage, but it sure looks bad.
Rusty Nelson

columbiA · 04-10-2013, 01:00 AM

I never use the ign cable clamp on the head.Then it only takes a moment to pull dist to get at the head nut.Also makes it easy to pul dist for any reason.I also never use a gasket on the water neck-just a thin film of rtv silicone after neck is filed flat.

04-07-2013, 04:50 PM	#1
Nlbloch Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 70	Advice on changing head gasket I am about to embark on my first attempt at changing the head gasket on my 1930 Coupe. Any suggestions on the proper way to do it, mistakes to avoid, and any other good general advice? Also, I am thinking of changing the head to a high compression version. Thoughts on the pros/cons? Generally, I have tried to keep my car as authentic as possible. It is a driver, not a show car. I have heard that the head, once removed, must be inspected for cracks and possibly sent to be 'milled." If I am going to incur those expenses, perhaps this is the time to get a new head and the benefits of higher compression?

04-07-2013, 05:24 PM	#2
ford3 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: oroville calif. Posts: 1,453	Re: Advice on changing head gasket remove the head by loosing the end bolts first and work to the middle, that way you wont get a warp in the head, install it in reverse order, check head for pits and cracks, have it check for straightness, if not straight have it milled, clean the stuck pieces of head gasket off the block and especially around the head studs, its a hard nasty job, one reason i use copper head gaskets, make sure the water goose neck and where it bolts to the head are absolutely flat, if not you will crack the goose neck, i use high temp silicone to seal that area, torque head to required specs, go around head 3 times, increasing torque at each pass then run engine till its up to temp. let cool and torque again, you will need to do that at least 3 times till the head nuts no longer turn, dont put antifreeze in engine till you make sure there are no leaks

04-07-2013, 05:48 PM	#3
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Advice on changing head gasket first step drain antifreeze loosen head nuts and start engine to break the head free

04-07-2013, 07:05 PM	#4
glenn in camino Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Camino, CA. Posts: 3,086	Re: Advice on changing head gasket I just installed a 5.5 head. First I removed the head nuts and soaked the studs for a couple of days with Kroil. The old head and the studs came off easily. Then I had the new head surfaced at a machine shop. I installed all new hardened studs, the new head, and new nuts, torqued to 55 lbs. After running the engine for a while, to get it up to operating temperature, I torqued the nuts to 55 lbs. again.

04-09-2013, 10:53 AM	#5
31open-cab Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 16	Re: Advice on changing head gasket When I got my engine rebuilt, it came with a "modern" head gasket with the sealer molded into the fiber type gasket. Was supposed to be great, but after repeated failures, I switched to a copper head gasket and water neck gasket and sprayed a couple of coats of copper tac on both sides of them before installation. The head gasket hasn't caused any trouble since! I know that the "modern" head gasket must have been my problem, because everything on the engine deck and head was checked to be flat and free of cracks, I followed all directions to the letter and my parts were "operating-room clean" I will only use copper head gaskets now. When I change a head gasket: in addition to other's advice: 1.I scrape everthing down and clean with lacquer thinner before the new gasket goes on. Look for cracks!! Have the head and water neck checked for flatness. 2.I check for loose studs; if one is loose, I take it out and check to see if the hole goes through into a water jacket; if so, I wrap the stud threads with teflon tape to seal stud into the block(only on stud holes that go through into water jackets)(stud should all be tight) 3.If the ignition switch conduit clamp is damaged/galled where the nut will tighten on it, I replace it. I tried to reuse one that was galled and it would turn as I torqued the nut on that stud putting the conduit in a bind!(put a dab of grease on top of the clamp where the nut tightens on it to help prevent this) 4.Make sure you get one of those tools offered by one of the model a parts suppliers to tighten the head nut beside the distributor (so that you won't have to take the distributor out to tighten that one nut) To me this is a must. 5.Check for anything that looks odd about the valves/cylinders; after all, now is the time to notice something so that you wont have to pull the head again! Now is also the time to do any distributor work that would require pulling it out (if you have the conduit style ignition switch that would make distributor removal difficult after the ignition clamp is torqued) 6.When the head is torqued down in 3 steps I reassemble everything and pour coolant in. I start the engine and warm up for about 15 to 20 minutes in the driveway at a fast idle then slowing to an idle. I shut the engine off, and retorque the head nuts. I usually let it sit until cooled off and then go for a short drive and retorque when I get back home. Then go for a couple more drives and retorque when I get back. I always torqued the head on mine when it was hot after a drive. I just kept retorqueing after each longer drive until the nuts would hold the torque. Whether this info is good or bad, it worked well for me and I wish I could have seen this before I replaced the head gasket on mine. Just be methodical about it. I wish you best of luck! Sincerely, Braxton C. aka 31open-cab

04-09-2013, 03:12 PM	#6
Duffy1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mo. City , Texas Posts: 725	Re: Advice on changing head gasket Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I also installed the modern head gasket as did some more folks in our club and what we have discovered is that you have to retorque the head ( stone cold per instructions ) numerous times ( I did mine 5 times ) before the 55lbs holds rather than twice after initial torquing per the instructions . Went on a 1,000 mile trip in some hilly country running hard with no problems. Got back from the trip and retorqued the heads again. Made many 100 mile trips since then with no problems . Knock on. wood .

04-09-2013, 04:24 PM	#8
wrndln Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeville, MN Posts: 5,164	Re: Advice on changing head gasket If you use a FelPro copper gasket, it might be advisable to apply some gasket sealer around the holes where water flows. I did this on my last engine and so far, no seepage. This will help prevent water/rust seepage from the gasket down the side of the engine. I guess it doesn't hurt anything if there is seepage, but it sure looks bad. Rusty Nelson

04-10-2013, 01:00 AM	#9
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: Advice on changing head gasket I never use the ign cable clamp on the head.Then it only takes a moment to pull dist to get at the head nut.Also makes it easy to pul dist for any reason.I also never use a gasket on the water neck-just a thin film of rtv silicone after neck is filed flat.