Now the fun begins...

[dwaynec]

I was out driving our '37 this morning and after driving about a mile in 70 degree temps the engine started running a little rough. Engine temp was right at 160 and the fuel tank was at about a half tank so I thought that maybe it was just one of those intermittent things that would go away. Instead it got worse; to the point that I was wondering if I would make it back home. The engine acted like it was running out of fuel, or vapor locking, but then would catch and run really rough when trying to drive. It would idle like a dream. Anyway, I decided to change the condenser as it seemed like a likely problem. Only one parts store had one, and it was made in Mexico. Engine still runs very poorly. It misses and bucks and generally has no power. This engine normally runs very smoothly and with plenty of power.

I should add that this is not the original engine. It is a 59A type engine with the numbers 99T-6049 and 99T-6050 on the heads. The coil has been changed from the original type that was on top of the distributer to the type that is can shaped coil found on later engines.

Anybody have advice on what to check next?
Thanks,

[Henry/Kokomo]

A few thoughts: Have the new condenser checked. "just because its new doesn't mean its good". Check the coil for proper output at operating temperature. Check spark plugs for fouling. Are you sure its an ignition problem? Does pulling out the choke help the problem? If so, check fuel system components for proper operation. Good luck and keep us posted!

[dwaynec]

I am not sure if it might be fuel related yet. I disconnected the gas line at the carb and turned the engine over with a can placed to catch the gas naked it seemed to be flowing at a proper quantity. I did not take any real flow measurements, just eyeballed it.

I have another condenser on order from Napa and will give it a try tomorrow when it comes in. I might buy a new coil too just in case.

I did try pulling the choke and it made no difference.

[dwaynec]

Well, it just keeps getting better and better.

I replaced the condenser and that did not help. Since the condenser was manufactured in Mexico, I decided to get an Echlin condenser. No joy there either. Only now I am getting no spark at all from the coil. This is a helmet distributer with the Bob Drake adapter so that you can use a later model coil such as the ones found on the early '50s Fords. So now I am going to pull the distributer to see if I can see something inside. Is there anything I have to be careful of trying to get this out? Is there anything that I should particularly look for inside the dizzy?

I should mention that I replaced the coil and that I am getting 6.32 volts at the coil.

Thanks,

[flatjack9]

Be sure that your adapter plate is making good contact with the distributor contact.

[dwaynec]

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Thanks. I will check that.

[JM 35 Sedan]

If your original condensor was going south, most likely your points were also burning/pitting at the same time. If that happened, you could have put many good condensors on and that would not fix what had already happened to the points. You need to check condition of point contacts. If slightly burned/pitted you might be able to file and regap them. If not, get a good set of quality points and install them. Have those newly purchased condensors check and find a good one. Have destributor set on a machine. Put everything back together an go for a road test.

[dwaynec]

When I pulled the dizzy I checked the points and they looked pretty good. I did touch them up with a file and re-gap them. Put everything back together and it fired right up. Because I had to get cleaned up for an evening get together I haven't had a chance to test drive it yet. I should get that done later today.

[dwaynec]

I took the car out for a test drive for a few miles this morning. I am glad to report that it is running very nicely again.

Thanks for the help.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by dwaynec

When I pulled the dizzy I checked the points and they looked pretty good. I did touch them up with a file and re-gap them. Put everything back together and it fired right up. Because I had to get cleaned up for an evening get together I haven't had a chance to test drive it yet. I should get that done later today.

What do you think was the main cause of your original problem?

[dwaynec]

I think the main part of the problem was that adapter for the coil. I don't think the contact for the condenser was making a good contact to part in the dizzy. I think that as the engine was getting warmer, there might have been a small amount of expansion which let that part lose contact. When I put it back together I made sure that it had a better contact.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Dwayne, in my somewhat humble opinion, I would get an original coil rewound and get rid of that plate adapter. I would not leave my driveway without a Skip Haney rewound original type coil on my cars.

[37 Coupe]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Dwayne, in my somewhat humble opinion, I would get an original coil rewound and get rid of that plate adapter. I would not leave my driveway without a Skip Haney rewound original type coil on my cars.

I totally agree and second that.

[trainguy]

It is my understanding that those coir adapters create more problems than they solve.A Skip coil would be a prudent move .Phil

[dwaynec]

Now all I have to do is find an original coil. Does Skip sell them?

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by dwaynec

Now all I have to do is find an original coil. Does Skip sell them?

Skip has a limited amount of cores he can supply. Normally you send your old Ford coil to him and he rebuilds the one you sent to him. It normally takes a week or less to rebuild it. His rebuilds are guaranteed with no real time line but in 20 years of rebuilding he has never charged anyone if they had a problem. Condensers have been a big problem over the years, Skip has recommended a Napa IH-200 for about 10 years and I never heard of a problem with any of them. G.M.

[37 Coupe]

Can the Dennis Carpenter reproduction coils be reworked as a core by Skip? A friend of mine has two Ford script #78 (1937-1941 ) coils they really look good and look original, they are not because you can see th DC underneath the. Strangely he got them by mistake as he was ordering a couple coils for his Ford 8N or 9N. They did not want them back and told him they were seconds,but they reimbursed him his money. They do not physically look like seconds.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I have some '37-'41, previously used, black in color, original script coils that I sell as rewindable cores. I can send them directly to Skip Haney if you wish for core cost + cost of actual shipping. Then you would contact Skip with your shipping address and arrange payment for his rewind and shipping cost. PM me if interested.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by 37 Coupe

Can the Dennis Carpenter reproduction coils be reworked as a core by Skip? A friend of mine has two Ford script #78 (1937-1941 ) coils they really look good and look original, they are not because you can see th DC underneath the. Strangely he got them by mistake as he was ordering a couple coils for his Ford 8N or 9N. They did not want them back and told him they were seconds,but they reimbursed him his money. They do not physically look like seconds.

These coils are filled with epoxy and can not be taken apart. G.M.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

I have some '37-'41, previously used, black in color, original script coils that I sell as rewindable cores. I can send them directly to Skip Haney if you wish for core cost + cost of actual shipping. Then you would contact Skip with your shipping address and arrange payment for his rewind and shipping cost. PM me if interested.

John I know Skip just did 3 coils for guys down under that you sent him. The shipping for a lot of these foreign counties is $60.00 for 1 coil so they can buy your core and ship it to Skip cheaper and faster then sending their coil back. G.M.

[dwaynec]

Thanks for the offers. As soon as I get things figured out I will be in contact.