Identifying F 100 hubs ?

[zzlegend]

Did not want to step on stillwater's thread so here goes. I have a pair of 53-56? ford pickup hubs. I was given these along with the aluminum Buick brake drums that i installed on my flathead roadster with 40 ford backing plates and spindles. The problem is that they don't go on over the entire brake shoe. They leave about 1/4" to 3/8" of an inch exposed in the very back near the backing plate. The hubs bolt up fine and the bearings are correct. It as if the flange is off set enough to keep the drum out. In other words, if the drum was mounted behind the flange, then it looks like they might work. So i assume there must be one with the flange located farther to the rear. I have seen these on others and even my friend has a set on his 32 with no problem. But just did not want to bother him to remove them and measure. I have heard that there is about 3 versions of these hubs. Anyone got any info on this? I included some pictures.
Here is the part number or casting number i found on them if that helps.
01A1106-AZ

[skidmarks]

All the buick drums I have done is use a 42 to 48 ford car or 42 to 47 pickup hub that mounts to the outside of the ford drum, and mount it to the outside of the buick drum.

That hub you have in the picture is a 40 ford hub by the part number.

If you use it, you have to remove the studs and machine the back side of it flat to work on buick drums

F1 and F100.is all together different

[my4dv8]

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-help.1052237/

[zzlegend]

Thanks Skid. A little more research i guess.
my4, thanks for that. More reading to do.

Edit. Skid, i must be losing it. I have 40 drums on there now but did not notice the hub numbers the last time i had them off. But you can bet i will look next time. Sheeesh. They guy that gave me these also gave my a pair of 55-56 ford pickup backing plates, and that's why i was under the assumption that these were pickup hubs.
The outside mounted hubs sound right to me. I will have to look for a set i guess. I am going to ask my bud what his are on his 32 , if he knows. Kind of feeling like a knucklehead now.

[rich b]

Those modified '40 hubs will work with the Buick drums in conjunction with F-2/F-250 backing plate assemblies.

As you found the offset of that combination is incompatible with the Lockheed backing plates.

The Lockheed plates are deeper than the F-2/F-250 plates.

If you want to use the Lockheed plates; you will need to get and machine a couple of the '48 style hubs where the flange is outside the drum; like Skidmarks described above.

Or, source some F-2/F-250 brakes which are Bendix self-energizing (better) brakes.
Probably again in the next couple days or so.

Someone lists rebuilt F-2/F-250 assemblies in the Ford Barn classified from time to time.

[zzlegend]

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Thanks Rich.

[skidmarks]

I got some of the outside hubs on junk drums. They take less machine work to get them on buick drums.

After you face off the back side of the hub you need to turn a register for the hub to fit into the buick drum.

I counter sink a hole in the hub and tap a 1/4" thread in the drum to help hold them together and then use a press in stud.

[32phil]

I have Buick drums on my Roadster. I used F1 hubs mounted inside the drums. That the drum closer to the backing plate and also moves the wheel closer to the drum. (There is a modification necessary to the inner wheel bearing to use F1 hubs/bearings on 37-48 spindles. Speedway sells a bearing package for the conversion.) I don't care for look of the Buick drums with outside hubs as the wheel appears to be too far out for me. We also had to take a whisker width off the inside edge of the drum to clear the Wilson Welding Bendix backing plate. I'm using 1 3/4 " shoes with 16" 40 Ford wheels.
Depending on the year spindle used there may be some minor grinding on the spindle to clear the Bendix style backing plates.

[zzlegend]

Good advice Phil. I was also wondering about keeping the wheels tucked in a little using the F1 hubs. A friend thinks he has a pair stashed in his garage. Just has to find them. Worth a try. It seems like i read a while back about someone having to shave a small amount off the back of the drum as you did.
Thanks Skid, for the info.

[rich b]

Originally Posted by 32phil

I have Buick drums on my Roadster. I used F1 hubs mounted inside the drums. That the drum closer to the backing plate and also moves the wheel closer to the drum. (There is a modification necessary to the inner wheel bearing to use F1 hubs/bearings on 37-48 spindles. Speedway sells a bearing package for the conversion.) I don't care for look of the Buick drums with outside hubs as the wheel appears to be too far out for me. We also had to take a whisker width off the inside edge of the drum to clear the Wilson Welding Bendix backing plate. I'm using 1 3/4 " shoes with 16" 40 Ford wheels.
Depending on the year spindle used there may be some minor grinding on the spindle to clear the Bendix style backing plates.

Phil, is it possible you are running F-100 hubs instead of F-1 hubs. The flange on F-1 hubs is close to the same distance from the spindle flange as the O1A hubs the OP has. While the F-100 hubs are about 3/8" narrower than the O1A hubs and work as you describe with Buick drums and repop Lincoln Bendix brakes (or original Lockheed). This ends up about 1/4" narrower than the using the outside flange hubs.

[cas3]

nice photo's rich, thanks for the effort

[zzlegend]

Originally Posted by cas3

nice photo's rich, thanks for the effort

X2 on those pictures.

[32phil]

Thank You rich b
They may indeed be F 100 hubs .
The car was built 15 years ago so stuff gets a little foggy.
It's hibernating now for the winter. In the spring when I repack the front wheel bearings I'll double check.

[skidmarks]

When the F1 hubs are used inside the buick drums, what studs are used?

Do the buick drums "float " over the hub or are they fixed together the way they are done with 48 ford car hubs?

[32phil]

If memory serves correctly I think we used Econoline studs because of the extra length. The drums are removable from the hubs they are not swedged on as the originals were.
I'm putting together another car with the same set up so I need to refresh my memory on exactly how we did it. In addition, I'm going to add Buick drums to the rear of my roadster. It's a fenderless Hi Boy so the rear drums will be easily visible.
I'll try to do some research in the next few days and post what I find.

[skidmarks]

When I did the buick drums with 48 hub, I clocked the hub and drum but kept the early ford 5-1/2 on 5 and used a press in stud that had a knurled shoulder long enough to bit into both the drum and hub with the hub on the outside.
Even though the hub has the right bolt pattern the holes are too large because of the original wedged studs

Sound like the F1 hub on the inside requires a lot less work.

You can also use a F1 spindle on early axles , they both use the same kingpin size but they dont look too good on a open wheel fenderless car

[stillwater]

Looks like you're getting some useful info.

Speedway Motors has some good videos on Youtube about brakes, might be something there for your interest as well.

[Andy]

You have to reduce the flange diameter to put any Ford hubs inside the Buick drums. A Ford wheel will not be supported on the smaller Buick drum face.