carburator

[Mike Mayer]

I have a four bolt mercury intake I want to go to a GM two barrel witch carb should I use /

[tubman]

First, of course, it has to be a small base. (Later cars have the larger version.) You also want to find a Chevrolet carb with the fuel inlet on the side; they are much easier to deal with than one with a front fuel inlet. When mounted on the manifold backwards, the fuel line and throttle linkage almost fall into place.

The problem comes with the manual choke, as it pulls backwards. You can rig up some sort of "monkey-motion" linkage, but what I have done is use an automatic choke version. Mercury's had automatic chokes in two versions, "divorced", where the choke actuating mechanism is mounted on the manifold, and "conventional", where it is mounted on the carburetor. Luckily, 2G's also came in both versions, and I have been able to match them up. A "divorced" mechanism just needs the actuating rod from the mechanism bent slightly, while the "conventional" setup needs the tube from the manifold shortened. I have done it both ways and either works fine. The problem is going to be finding all the parts you need, as people have usually stripped the Merc manifolds and small base 2G's of any kind are getting harder to find. I found a place that was selling Chevrolet small base cores for $49.95 and $79.95, depending on configuration.

The carburetors don't mind running backwards a bit, and I'm sure you'll find a properly set up system to be very satisfactory. I don't miss the manual choke at all.

"Ask me what time it is, and I'll tell you how to build a watch".

EDIT : Here are the guys with the cores : https://hotrodcarbs.com/store/small-...tor-cores.html.

[rotorwrench]

The 2GC has larger bores so the manifold will either need a spacer or the bores will have to be opened up to fit the larger throttle plates. They work good on a flathead and are a simple and reliable unit.

[tubman]

As long as we are getting down to the final complexities, I use a 1 7/16" "Rota-Broach" (shown) to bore the manifolds all the way down. I have done both aluminum (Canadian) and cast iron manifolds with equal success using a spare 2G base as a guide. One last thing : The small base 2G's have cast-in cavities on the bottom of the base that can sometimes cause leaks leaks between the carburetor and manifold. I had a bunch of .060 aluminum plates made to seal up this area, but it would be easy to make your own using a base gasket as a pattern.

[Scotty's 52 F3]

I did exactly as Tubman suggests to put mine on. I went with a manual choke model from Rock Auto. It's definitely gone up in price.

I looked up a 1961 Chevy C10 with a 283. I bought an Autoline C934.

Other reman companies are TOMCO 2-124A and UREMCO 3-364

Here's a link to my detailed swap on FTE forum. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-2g-swap.html

[Mike Mayer]

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Thank you all I am going to have some fun.

[tubman]

I got all excited at the thought of being able to order a new or rebuilt carburetor from "Rock Auto". I checked it out and see that it is a rebuilding service only and requires you to send them a core. With shipping both ways, I'll bet it would be well over $200 even if you have a core.

Bummer.

I did find this, though : https://www.ebay.com/itm/16510958053...cAAOSwKF5bmClm.

[Jack E/NJ]

Probably any carb can be suitably mated to an untouched intake using a nice piece of wood. 8^)

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Probably any carb can be suitably mated to an untouched intake using a nice piece of wood. 8^)

"Probably", but nothing I would suggest doing.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Jack E/NJ

Probably any carb can be suitably mated to an untouched intake using a nice piece of wood. 8^)

A Tiki Torch under the hood? I once made a rocker arm for a 4 hp Witte hit n miss engine out of hard maple. That was 25 years ago and it still shows up at the gas-ups now and then with my rocker good as new. But... it is not soaked in gasoline and in-line with a backfire.

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Tubman, I bought mine from Rock Auto a few years ago and just paid the core charge since I didn't have one. It wasn't as pricy as it is now. I think it was under $200 even with the core charge.

The first one I received was a horrible rebuild. They picked it up and sent me another. It's been running ever since without trouble.

[Mike Mayer]

Again I thank all of you for the help.