leaking head gasket

original leak right back of engine.replaced head gasket still leaking same place. had head miled instaled new gasket run about one hour started leaking again same place. would like help in solving problem. block seems to be ok.



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your message said the block seemed to be ok I would want to be certain it was ok! you could try a stop leak product. I like the powder stuff



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Recheck the block surface with a straightedge. If the head is good *and* you're bolts aren't bottoming out, it's about the only other thing that can cause this in the same place over and over.



Also, make sure the bolt holes in the block are cleaned out! All the crud and water and carbon can get in the holes - you can torque the bolts to 50 ft lbs and still have a loose head. (BTDT!)



*IF* your bolts are still too long (watch out - stretched head bolts break easy!) you can put a washer under the heads of the bolts before you tighten them down. If the head's been milled, you may need to do that anyway. Above all, DO NOT put more than one gasket on there (pulled *4* off of Angel when I first got her) - that's asking for problems.



BTW, DO NOT use the "stop-leak" products - they will clog your radiator and cause your car to overheat. Again, know from experience trying to make a radiator core last.



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I use stop leak. I like SOLDER SEAL.

Drain water down some.Then put

solder seal in then add water.

Ralph



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if you do use stop leak run it for only about a week then drain it out and refill with fresh water



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your message said the block seemed to be ok I would want to be certain it was ok! you could try a stop leak product. I like the powder stuff



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Recheck the block surface with a straightedge. If the head is good *and* you're bolts aren't bottoming out, it's about the only other thing that can cause this in the same place over and over.



Also, make sure the bolt holes in the block are cleaned out! All the crud and water and carbon can get in the holes - you can torque the bolts to 50 ft lbs and still have a loose head. (BTDT!)



*IF* your bolts are still too long (watch out - stretched head bolts break easy!) you can put a washer under the heads of the bolts before you tighten them down. If the head's been milled, you may need to do that anyway. Above all, DO NOT put more than one gasket on there (pulled *4* off of Angel when I first got her) - that's asking for problems.



BTW, DO NOT use the "stop-leak" products - they will clog your radiator and cause your car to overheat. Again, know from experience trying to make a radiator core last.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

I use stop leak. I like SOLDER SEAL.

Drain water down some.Then put

solder seal in then add water.

Ralph



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

if you do use stop leak run it for only about a week then drain it out and refill with fresh water



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I don't like the radiator additives. I do use the spray can copper coat on both sides of the head gasket before installitation. Your head is leaking, not your radiator. The washer under the head bolt fix Sue mentioned is also good just don't break a head bolt (didn't that happen to you this year Sue?) I think she is right, they are tight but too long. Possibly your new head gasket doesn't have enough "squish".



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Hi Tim...



Not yet! (Quick, find wood to knock on!) I had forgotten about the crud that gets in the bottom of the holes when I went to put it all back together - there was carbon, anti-freeze, rust, dirt, and metal shavings (also rusty) in the borttom of about half of them.



Of course, I was also using the official Ford tool for installation - the head bolt/spark plug wrench - instead of a torque wrench. Silly me, huh?



The cat that sold me the bolts *also* gave me a set of these thick shim-like washers - said on his TT the motor had these kind of thick washers - like a spacer - on there when he found the truck, so he figured they belonged there. Also, the 20 has the same washers on it's, maybe Ford started putting them on at some point?



:~)



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A mechanic friend of mine once told me "torque=resistance vs lubrication". He advised me to ALWAYS lube the threads of a head bolt before installation but be carefull NOT to cause a hydrolic block by dipping a bolt into oil and shove the whole drippy-mess into the block. Liquids don't compress. Another thing that is good is if you have a "bottom tap" run it in to bring out the rust, and junk. I don't have one but I do have an air hose and WD-40! The torque sequence is important. I start in the middle, skip around and finish around the edges (diagonally). I only torque to about 25 lbs to start and build up from there. Next I run the motor and get it warm (not hot) and do it again. The torque drops way down! I continue the same sequence and after about a half a dozen times I am satisfied. Doesn't take all that long but my heads don't leak (and some of them are overheads). The problem with the late (26-27) cars is that you can't get a torque wrench on the back head bolt. Ford called for a "strong pull on an 8" wrench". Once I get the others torqued properly I "test" it with an end wrench and try to match the pull on the back. I do tend to get a little overactive and have to be carefull not to pull so hard I bend the frame (no really I have never broken a headbolt and don't want to).



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