The Ford Barn

aandkt · 10-17-2022, 01:30 PM

I am attemptong to change the Sending unit in my 1936 Cabriolet. My 36 has a 12 Volt system with a resister in front of the original dash gauge. I have cut the hole in my trunk floor thanks to help locating the sender from you guys.
I believe the correct ohms are 10 full tank and 73 empty tank.
Dennis Carpenter states the correct ohms are 17-19 full and125 full.
Can anyone set me straight on the correct OHMS and advise who sells what I need?

rotorwrench · 10-17-2022, 01:39 PM

After ford switched over from the hydrostatic type gauges, They went to King Sealey gauges and senders which are all pulsed current type systems. If the fuel tank and the sending unit has been changed to rheostat based type then the gauge may have a hard time working with it.

A person may have to perform some testing on the original gauge to find out the current needs for the different positions with whatever voltage is applied. A person can do this by applying different voltages to get the meter to read empty, half full, and full, The resistance needed to drop the voltage to that required can be calculated using Ohms law.

aandkt · 10-17-2022, 02:20 PM

I have the original gauge and original tank. The only variable is the 12v battery and resister in front of the gauge.

aandkt · 10-17-2022, 02:22 PM

What specs do I need to make this system work?
Thanks

koates · 10-17-2022, 09:17 PM

Modern fuel gauges operate on a variable resistance method which is VERY DIFFERENT to your KING SEALEY original 36 Ford system. Your 36 Ford fuel gauge operates on a bi-metal switching on and off design in the sender unit which is very different in operation to the modern variable resistance type tank unit. The original tank units are no longer available to buy new and hard to find second hand. Whats wrong with your original sender unit. It can possibly be repaired. I have used a modern variable resistance VDO tank sender which has 15 ohms empty and approx 100 to 120 ohms full. Because the modern system works on a different principle there is no guarantee it will be accurate across the gauge full range. If you can get it to work correctly on empty then that is a good result. Check with your local VDO supplier and see what is still available. The VDO sender wont have the same fitting size where it screws into the tank. Regards, Kevin.

deuce_roadster · 10-17-2022, 10:08 PM

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As Kevin said, the KS sender and gauge operate on FREQUENCY, not volts or Ohms resistance.

dean333 · 10-18-2022, 12:01 AM

I have a 36 Tudor, is it necessary to cut a hole in the trunk floor to service the fuel sending unit?

koates · 10-18-2022, 04:07 AM

Tim, there should be an oblong panel in the floor behind the rear seat to access the fuel gauge sender unit. IT slides in with a single screw at one end, Regards, Kevin.

rotorwrench · 10-18-2022, 08:19 AM

A lot of the KS senders I've checked out just need the points cleaned. One point is fixed and the other is on the bi metallic strip that is manipulated by the float. The top of the sender has a cap that snaps on and off. The mechanism is small so a person has to be careful with it. There is a carbon resistor that can easily be broken and it is clipped in like a fuse. That and a wire wound resistor were used by KS to calibrate the unit at manufacter. I wouldn't mess with that stuff unless there is damage detected in there and even then there could be unrepairable damage. Repair parts don't exist so it would have to be replaced if something is damaged.

aandkt · 10-20-2022, 08:19 PM

The sender is all messed up and looks bent. I have sent away for a replacement. I will attempt to set the float arm to show full and empty. As far as there being no hole for sender removal in the trunk, Thanks to Ford Barn members I was able to find the location where to cut a hole in my apparently replacement trunk floor. After all- That is the hobby.
Thanks to all

aandkt · 11-04-2022, 06:31 PM

Nov 3, 2022- Still waiting for my sending unit to arrive.....

terry · 11-04-2022, 06:55 PM

Do you have the sending unit out of the tank and have you bench tested it? It's fairly simple. Use a small 6v battery that is used for lanterns. I would make sure the orig sending unit is beyond repair before putting in the newer type. terry

19Fordy · 11-05-2022, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aandkt

Nov 3, 2022- Still waiting for my sending unit to arrive.....

Can you post a photo of your OEM sending unit along with the unit you are buying to replace it.

Please be sure to let us know how accurate the new unit is through its complete range of motion when installed with your OEM gauge.

As you already know KS units did not work on the Ohms principle so your gas tank readings with the replacement unit will be of great interest.

aandkt · 11-05-2022, 01:01 PM

The key note is "when" I get it. One thing the old one did was stick in range of motion and the gauge never got to full.
The highest it got was to 3/4 (once) but mostly only went to 1/2 on the bench. I moved the float upand down but it did not move the gauge much. Very tight mechanism too.

aandkt · 12-18-2022, 10:57 PM

Sorry for the lomg lapse of reply. I was in the hospital with Covid and pneumonia. It left me very week and unable to work on the '36. The Drake 12 and 6v sender is in the car but I have yet to connect the 6v Gauge. where does the reducer go?

koates · 12-19-2022, 02:09 AM

I thought you stated in your first post that the voltage dropping resistor was already connected under the dash. It should be connected in line with the ignition switch controlled power wire to the gauge BAT or IGN terminal. Regards, Kevin

51woodie · 12-19-2022, 09:54 AM

This is what a KS fuel sender looks like under the cover, which just snaps on. Dirty contact points are often the reason for not working. I had to replace the float and the corroded float arm on the one for my '46 Coupe.

Question: Does the violet band indicate it is an 8 ohm resistor?

rotorwrench · 12-19-2022, 10:59 AM

Purple generally indicates 7 ohms but with gold bands on each end, it sort of muddies the water. The 7 may just be the second digit in the code with gold being the first but gold isn't generally used for digits. It's used for percentage of tolerance only. Resistors do have a code for the colored bands but I'm not sure King Sealey followed the normal way of resistor coding. I've seen several different colors in different units but all were 6-volt system units. It may be a ballast to protect the heating coil on the bimetalic breaker point arm.

I'm sure KS used it as part of the calibration process since there are different values for the same system design used by Ford for many years. The value can be checked with an ohm meter to see if it fits the standard code or not.

aandkt · 12-23-2022, 04:55 PM

Why is it that when I put a 12 to 6v reducer on my 12v lead and test the output from the
other side of the reducer I still get 12v? That is the side that would go to my 6v gauge.

Will it not burn up my 6v original Ford gauge?

JayChicago · 12-23-2022, 09:06 PM

Try connecting the reducer to the gauges, and then measure the voltage.

I assume the reducer is a resistor. A resistor limits current (flow), which then reduces voltage (pressure) down-stream of the resistor. When there is no current flow, there is no voltage drop. With the gauges connected and operating there will be current, so you should be able to measure the voltage drop.

SoCalCoupe · 02-12-2023, 01:58 PM

Working on my own 1941 sender now. 99% certain it's the original K-S sender. The gauge was stuck indicating full. Very low resistance (single digit ohms) between the sender and ground. That's consistent with stuck full.

When I pulled the sender out of the tank the float arm was stuck full. The float is fine (but rusty) and would not 'fall' to empty on it's own but moves ok by hand. 'Worked' it a few times my hand and it seemed to loosen up and fall on it's own but then all the gasoline dried up and won't move anymore except by hand.

Now the gauge is stuck on empty even when moving the float all the way up and all the way down by hand. Resistance is now stuck at around 40 ohm. Sounds like the contacts need to be cleaned.

Any thoughts on lubricating the float pivot arm without contaminating the gas?

aandkt · 02-20-2023, 12:55 PM

I have been told by other Ford barners that if you remove the top of tha gague you can clean the points.
I have a 12v system. I am having my own problems. I have replaced the KS sender with a Bob Drake sender that they say works with a 12 & 6v system. Still the gague goes up and out of sight past full.

SoCalCoupe · 02-26-2023, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCalCoupe

Working on my own 1941 sender now. 99% certain it's the original K-S sender. The gauge was stuck indicating full. Very low resistance (single digit ohms) between the sender and ground. That's consistent with stuck full.

When I pulled the sender out of the tank the float arm was stuck full. The float is fine (but rusty) and would not 'fall' to empty on it's own but moves ok by hand. 'Worked' it a few times my hand and it seemed to loosen up and fall on it's own but then all the gasoline dried up and won't move anymore except by hand.

Now the gauge is stuck on empty even when moving the float all the way up and all the way down by hand. Resistance is now stuck at around 40 ohm. Sounds like the contacts need to be cleaned.

Any thoughts on lubricating the float pivot arm without contaminating the gas?

Moved the float arm by hand several cycles and decided it would work ok. The reason it was still stuck on full is I forgot to ground the sender while testing.

The gasket was probably the original 1941 gasket so I make a new one out of Felpro gasket material.

This did not go well at all. I filled the tank just before going home from a cars and coffee and checked on the car an hour later in the garage like I always do. GAS EVERYWHERE! The fill pipe was full, the level higher than the sending unit and gas was leaking out of that joint. I'm 90% certain it was coming out the six screw holes. The holes seem to go all the way through into the tank and weren't sealing. I don't think I stripped the screws but it's so easy to do with old worn screws and holes; you don't get the same snugging down feeling the way you do with new screws.

Stopped the leaking by siphoning gas out of the tank but I'm really stumped about permanently stopping the leak around the sending unit. New gasket? RTV sealant? Helicoils for the machine screws?

rotorwrench · 02-27-2023, 11:14 AM

The original gaskets were cork. An alternate would be neoprene rubber.

The screws and threaded bores need to be checked for condition. They have to be functional to seal. There are heli-coils for all sizes of screw threads so that may be an alternative but even the helicoil would need to be sealed.

I use Flame Master Chem Seal tank sealer when I run into a problems with fuel sealing. I purchase the CS3204 B1/2 which has a good work time (1/2-hour) and cure time is basically overnight. I purchase the small can since I use the stuff to seal other things as well. It dries into a rubber like material when fully cured. A person can use it on the gasket but it will make it difficult to remove later. I use a razor blade and work it into the gasket flange if I have to do that. The screws can be sealed with it as well. The stuff ain't cheap. here is a link. Sem kits are cheaper but they are a one time deal since the whole kit will cure after it is mixed.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...al09-04612.php

I also use other brands like Products Research PR1422 and Pro Seal PS890 if I can't get the chem seal.

19Fordy · 02-27-2023, 12:00 PM

I use this to seal the gasket on the KS gas tank sending unit. Works fine. Not expensive.
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...esives_All_All

As an after thought: I have yet to find an aftermarket gas tank sending unit that will accurately work thru the full range of motion with the OEM KS fuel gauge.

19Fordy · 02-27-2023, 12:07 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Use a light coating of a rust dissolver that converts the rust to iron phosphate which you can then remove with a stiff tooth brush. It won't hurt the mechanism of the sending unit or seep into the gas.
https://www.thespruce.com/best-rust-removers-4174196

rich b · 02-27-2023, 05:17 PM

I once made some small annealed copper washers to go under the sender screwheads to stop a leak I had. I also used extra wide truss headed screws.

SoCalCoupe · 03-08-2023, 10:08 PM

BTW, the sending unit electricals work fine. I neglected to ground it the first time I tested it. When it's grounded and I move the float lever by hand, it works fine.

C&G Ford parts has a $10 shipping fee. Not complaining. It's pretty reasonable but I was a little hesitant to order a $3 gasket + $10 for shipping. Not that I haven't done that before. Actually, they're only 35 miles away, 42 minutes from my house, but I'll pay $10 to avoid that. Scrounged around and found another part to buy to make it worth the $10 shipping and ordered a new gasket.

It's a nice cork gasket. The screws weren't stripped. Fiddled around with the screw holes quite a bit to clean them up and installed the new cork gasket. Filled up the filler pipe above the level of the sender with a gas can. No leaks.

Now the gas gauge doesn't work. 95% certain it's just the arm that's stuck again; very likely on the original rubber bushing

One step forward, one step back.

Any recommendations for a sending unit rebuilder? To all appearances it's an original King-Seeley sender. I'd really like to keep it just because it's original. No doubt I could sneak through even a very tough judging with a newer replacement. The car won't be judged anyway, but that's not the point for me, just the satisfaction of restoring the re-war technology and getting it to work.

As far as fixing the original goes, this is one of those cases where experience really counts. Having the right tools and right knowledge makes all the difference. It's pretty delicate and I can see myself wrecking it.

10-17-2022, 01:30 PM	#1
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	1936 fuel sending unit ohms I am attemptong to change the Sending unit in my 1936 Cabriolet. My 36 has a 12 Volt system with a resister in front of the original dash gauge. I have cut the hole in my trunk floor thanks to help locating the sender from you guys. I believe the correct ohms are 10 full tank and 73 empty tank. Dennis Carpenter states the correct ohms are 17-19 full and125 full. Can anyone set me straight on the correct OHMS and advise who sells what I need?

10-17-2022, 01:39 PM	#2
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,449	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms After ford switched over from the hydrostatic type gauges, They went to King Sealey gauges and senders which are all pulsed current type systems. If the fuel tank and the sending unit has been changed to rheostat based type then the gauge may have a hard time working with it. A person may have to perform some testing on the original gauge to find out the current needs for the different positions with whatever voltage is applied. A person can do this by applying different voltages to get the meter to read empty, half full, and full, The resistance needed to drop the voltage to that required can be calculated using Ohms law. Last edited by rotorwrench; 10-17-2022 at 01:55 PM.

10-17-2022, 02:20 PM	#3
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms I have the original gauge and original tank. The only variable is the 12v battery and resister in front of the gauge.

10-17-2022, 02:22 PM	#4
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms What specs do I need to make this system work? Thanks

10-17-2022, 09:17 PM	#5
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,081	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Modern fuel gauges operate on a variable resistance method which is VERY DIFFERENT to your KING SEALEY original 36 Ford system. Your 36 Ford fuel gauge operates on a bi-metal switching on and off design in the sender unit which is very different in operation to the modern variable resistance type tank unit. The original tank units are no longer available to buy new and hard to find second hand. Whats wrong with your original sender unit. It can possibly be repaired. I have used a modern variable resistance VDO tank sender which has 15 ohms empty and approx 100 to 120 ohms full. Because the modern system works on a different principle there is no guarantee it will be accurate across the gauge full range. If you can get it to work correctly on empty then that is a good result. Check with your local VDO supplier and see what is still available. The VDO sender wont have the same fitting size where it screws into the tank. Regards, Kevin.

10-17-2022, 10:08 PM	#6
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,802	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) As Kevin said, the KS sender and gauge operate on FREQUENCY, not volts or Ohms resistance.

10-18-2022, 12:01 AM	#7
dean333 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Shorewood Illinois Posts: 873	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms I have a 36 Tudor, is it necessary to cut a hole in the trunk floor to service the fuel sending unit? __________________ Tim Carlig

10-18-2022, 04:07 AM	#8
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,081	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Tim, there should be an oblong panel in the floor behind the rear seat to access the fuel gauge sender unit. IT slides in with a single screw at one end, Regards, Kevin.

10-18-2022, 08:19 AM	#9
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,449	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms A lot of the KS senders I've checked out just need the points cleaned. One point is fixed and the other is on the bi metallic strip that is manipulated by the float. The top of the sender has a cap that snaps on and off. The mechanism is small so a person has to be careful with it. There is a carbon resistor that can easily be broken and it is clipped in like a fuse. That and a wire wound resistor were used by KS to calibrate the unit at manufacter. I wouldn't mess with that stuff unless there is damage detected in there and even then there could be unrepairable damage. Repair parts don't exist so it would have to be replaced if something is damaged.

10-20-2022, 08:19 PM	#10
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms The sender is all messed up and looks bent. I have sent away for a replacement. I will attempt to set the float arm to show full and empty. As far as there being no hole for sender removal in the trunk, Thanks to Ford Barn members I was able to find the location where to cut a hole in my apparently replacement trunk floor. After all- That is the hobby. Thanks to all

11-04-2022, 06:31 PM	#11
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Nov 3, 2022- Still waiting for my sending unit to arrive.....

11-04-2022, 06:55 PM	#12
terry Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 269	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Do you have the sending unit out of the tank and have you bench tested it? It's fairly simple. Use a small 6v battery that is used for lanterns. I would make sure the orig sending unit is beyond repair before putting in the newer type. terry

11-05-2022, 01:01 PM	#14
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms The key note is "when" I get it. One thing the old one did was stick in range of motion and the gauge never got to full. The highest it got was to 3/4 (once) but mostly only went to 1/2 on the bench. I moved the float upand down but it did not move the gauge much. Very tight mechanism too.

12-18-2022, 10:57 PM	#15
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Sorry for the lomg lapse of reply. I was in the hospital with Covid and pneumonia. It left me very week and unable to work on the '36. The Drake 12 and 6v sender is in the car but I have yet to connect the 6v Gauge. where does the reducer go?

12-19-2022, 02:09 AM	#16
koates Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Melbourne Australia. Posts: 2,081	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms I thought you stated in your first post that the voltage dropping resistor was already connected under the dash. It should be connected in line with the ignition switch controlled power wire to the gauge BAT or IGN terminal. Regards, Kevin

12-19-2022, 10:59 AM	#18
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,449	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Purple generally indicates 7 ohms but with gold bands on each end, it sort of muddies the water. The 7 may just be the second digit in the code with gold being the first but gold isn't generally used for digits. It's used for percentage of tolerance only. Resistors do have a code for the colored bands but I'm not sure King Sealey followed the normal way of resistor coding. I've seen several different colors in different units but all were 6-volt system units. It may be a ballast to protect the heating coil on the bimetalic breaker point arm. I'm sure KS used it as part of the calibration process since there are different values for the same system design used by Ford for many years. The value can be checked with an ohm meter to see if it fits the standard code or not. Last edited by rotorwrench; 12-19-2022 at 11:07 AM.

12-23-2022, 04:55 PM	#19
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Why is it that when I put a 12 to 6v reducer on my 12v lead and test the output from the other side of the reducer I still get 12v? That is the side that would go to my 6v gauge. Will it not burn up my 6v original Ford gauge?

12-23-2022, 09:06 PM	#20
JayChicago Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Chicago Posts: 735	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Try connecting the reducer to the gauges, and then measure the voltage. I assume the reducer is a resistor. A resistor limits current (flow), which then reduces voltage (pressure) down-stream of the resistor. When there is no current flow, there is no voltage drop. With the gauges connected and operating there will be current, so you should be able to measure the voltage drop.

02-12-2023, 01:58 PM	#21
SoCalCoupe Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Point Loma, San Diego, CA Posts: 424	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Working on my own 1941 sender now. 99% certain it's the original K-S sender. The gauge was stuck indicating full. Very low resistance (single digit ohms) between the sender and ground. That's consistent with stuck full. When I pulled the sender out of the tank the float arm was stuck full. The float is fine (but rusty) and would not 'fall' to empty on it's own but moves ok by hand. 'Worked' it a few times my hand and it seemed to loosen up and fall on it's own but then all the gasoline dried up and won't move anymore except by hand. Now the gauge is stuck on empty even when moving the float all the way up and all the way down by hand. Resistance is now stuck at around 40 ohm. Sounds like the contacts need to be cleaned. Any thoughts on lubricating the float pivot arm without contaminating the gas?

02-20-2023, 12:55 PM	#22
aandkt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: LI NY Posts: 222	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms I have been told by other Ford barners that if you remove the top of tha gague you can clean the points. I have a 12v system. I am having my own problems. I have replaced the KS sender with a Bob Drake sender that they say works with a 12 & 6v system. Still the gague goes up and out of sight past full.

02-27-2023, 11:14 AM	#24
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,449	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms The original gaskets were cork. An alternate would be neoprene rubber. The screws and threaded bores need to be checked for condition. They have to be functional to seal. There are heli-coils for all sizes of screw threads so that may be an alternative but even the helicoil would need to be sealed. I use Flame Master Chem Seal tank sealer when I run into a problems with fuel sealing. I purchase the CS3204 B1/2 which has a good work time (1/2-hour) and cure time is basically overnight. I purchase the small can since I use the stuff to seal other things as well. It dries into a rubber like material when fully cured. A person can use it on the gasket but it will make it difficult to remove later. I use a razor blade and work it into the gasket flange if I have to do that. The screws can be sealed with it as well. The stuff ain't cheap. here is a link. Sem kits are cheaper but they are a one time deal since the whole kit will cure after it is mixed. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...al09-04612.php I also use other brands like Products Research PR1422 and Pro Seal PS890 if I can't get the chem seal.

02-27-2023, 12:00 PM	#25
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,963	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms I use this to seal the gasket on the KS gas tank sending unit. Works fine. Not expensive. https://www.acehardware.com/departme...esives_All_All As an after thought: I have yet to find an aftermarket gas tank sending unit that will accurately work thru the full range of motion with the OEM KS fuel gauge.

02-27-2023, 12:07 PM	#26
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,963	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Use a light coating of a rust dissolver that converts the rust to iron phosphate which you can then remove with a stiff tooth brush. It won't hurt the mechanism of the sending unit or seep into the gas. https://www.thespruce.com/best-rust-removers-4174196

02-27-2023, 05:17 PM	#27
rich b Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: 1,827	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms I once made some small annealed copper washers to go under the sender screwheads to stop a leak I had. I also used extra wide truss headed screws.

03-08-2023, 10:08 PM	#28
SoCalCoupe Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: Point Loma, San Diego, CA Posts: 424	Re: 1936 fuel sending unit ohms BTW, the sending unit electricals work fine. I neglected to ground it the first time I tested it. When it's grounded and I move the float lever by hand, it works fine. C&G Ford parts has a $10 shipping fee. Not complaining. It's pretty reasonable but I was a little hesitant to order a $3 gasket + $10 for shipping. Not that I haven't done that before. Actually, they're only 35 miles away, 42 minutes from my house, but I'll pay $10 to avoid that. Scrounged around and found another part to buy to make it worth the $10 shipping and ordered a new gasket. It's a nice cork gasket. The screws weren't stripped. Fiddled around with the screw holes quite a bit to clean them up and installed the new cork gasket. Filled up the filler pipe above the level of the sender with a gas can. No leaks. Now the gas gauge doesn't work. 95% certain it's just the arm that's stuck again; very likely on the original rubber bushing One step forward, one step back. Any recommendations for a sending unit rebuilder? To all appearances it's an original King-Seeley sender. I'd really like to keep it just because it's original. No doubt I could sneak through even a very tough judging with a newer replacement. The car won't be judged anyway, but that's not the point for me, just the satisfaction of restoring the re-war technology and getting it to work. As far as fixing the original goes, this is one of those cases where experience really counts. Having the right tools and right knowledge makes all the difference. It's pretty delicate and I can see myself wrecking it.