Adding grease fittings

[1928Pickuppain]

So I'd like to compile a small list of places were there are no grease fittings and probably really should be and reasons why or why not.

Clutch release shaft, seems like there should be a grease fitting on eaither side of shaft on bottom of bell housing??

Break cross shaft

Ebrake shaft?

The last thing I was thinking about is the radius ball, why not weld a nut on the top plate were the hole is and run a tube from nut to the inside of the bell housing to a coupler on the behouing with a zerk pressed into the out side of bell housing so it can get greased every 500 miles with everything else instead of felt pad? Or even just drill bottom plate weld on nut, drill and press on zerk fitting and still leave felt pad in place.

Is there any were else that does not have grease fittings from the factory that would benefit from having them?

[Pinesdune]

I added one to the bearing in the torque tube near the speedo gear to make sure she gets fresh grease


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[duke36]

the steering gear sector shaft housing portion may have had one ? door hinge pins would have been nice, like MG TC's have

[Art Newland]

Randy Gross adds a zerk to the e-brake shaft/bushing on the backing plate.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Pinesdune

I added one to the bearing in the torque tube near the speedo gear to make sure she gets fresh grease


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Just get an AA as they were that was from the factory grease zerk is a triple whammy greasing the front bearing and speedometer gear and eventually the U joint.

[Synchro909]

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I put one on the clutch and brake pedals and on the lower clutch shaft where it goes through the bell housing and others I can't remember right now.

[1928Pickuppain]

Grease fitting installed (first photo upload for me ever I think)

[SeaSlugs]

ooh nice job! Should deffinately help. I agree on the pedal bushings as well should have a grease zerk.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

You don't really need grease fittings on the brake shafts,as they have oil impregnated bearings. You can squirt some oil in there when you do your greasing.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac

You don't really need grease fittings on the brake shafts,as they have oil impregnated bearings. You can squirt some oil in there when you do your greasing.

Beg to differ. We have to use gudgeon bushes for the pedals. 1" diameter shaft. Just a couple more of a very long list of things NOT available RHD.

[Kevin in NJ]

Trying to out do Fords engineering again.

The brake shafts are originally graphite impregnated woven cloth. They we made round to allow for the mounts to flex and not bind the shafts. They should not be pegged in with a grease fitting. The grease can also get hard binding the shaft and it attracts dirt. All things Ford intentionally got away from by using the fabric bushing. Now today guys are putting in brass bushings and they need lubrication. The brass has no grooves for proper distribution of the grease.

The driveshaft grease is likely more to hold the oil that leaks out the rear of the tranny close to the U joint. This oil is what lubricates the rest during operation, or at least contributes quite a bit.

Keep in mind the A went a lot of miles and never needed the grease fittings you think they need today. You are not putting anywhere the miles on the car like when they were new. No one seems to have a problem with any of those parts wearing out after a restoration. So you are likely just fixing lots of none problems. It is best to spend your time making sure you properly restore the parts to factory. Then worry more about when you are going driving next with your car cause it just keeps running with no problems.

[1928Pickuppain]

See most are not putting as many miles on there cars as when they were new, I do I drove mine as my only means of trasportation for 4 years 150+ miles a day. And when she's back to 100% I plan on doing so again so anything I can add grease fittings to I want to. My a has been out driving around in blizzards, hurricanes you name it, she got me out of the shore when sandy hit with a piece of rubber dryer hose on the zenith as a snorkel.

[Y-Blockhead]

I like your idea of adding grease fittings to areas that could use a little grease. Helps keep moister at bay also.

I have also changed out most of the grease fittings to more modern Zerk fittings and add a "dust" cover to keep them clean. https://www.mcmaster.com/#zerk-grease-fittings/=17es08q

McMaster-Carr has numerous grease fittings and tools for installing. Also they have some "self tapping" fittings for holes that need some help.

[Kevin in NJ]

Originally Posted by 1928Pickuppain

See most are not putting as many miles on there cars as when they were new, I do I drove mine as my only means of trasportation for 4 years 150+ miles a day. And when she's back to 100% I plan on doing so again so anything I can add grease fittings to I want to. My a has been out driving around in blizzards, hurricanes you name it, she got me out of the shore when sandy hit with a piece of rubber dryer hose on the zenith as a snorkel.

So in the 4 years you drove everyday did any of those parts wear because they were not greased?

So you drove in the winter on really cold days. Worse yet, grease in sub zero temps on the brake bushings. Nothing like no brakes cause the grease is so stiff.

Just thinking out loud, your car do with as you please.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

So you drove in the winter on really cold days. Worse yet, grease in sub zero temps on the brake bushings. Nothing like no brakes cause the grease is so stiff.

Just thinking out loud, your car do with as you please.

I'm guessing it would depend on what type of grease...

[Tom Endy]

One area I think Henry did overlook for greasing is the E-brake shafts on the rear wheels. Many owners don't use the E-brake when parking and the shafts can go for years without moving. Quite often you find E-brake carriers with the shaft frozen in the tunnel. Trying to remove it can cause the tunnel swaging to break loose from the carrier.

Attached article appeared in the Victoria Bustle a few years ago. Installing grease fittings on the ends of the two E-brake shafts is not difficult, best accomplished during a brake job.

Tom Endy

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Beg to differ. We have to use gudgeon bushes for the pedals. 1" diameter shaft. Just a couple more of a very long list of things NOT available RHD.

I was talking cross shafts, not brake and clutch. I actually have grease fittings on those. Sorry I wasnt clear.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

Trying to out do Fords engineering again.

The brake shafts are originally graphite impregnated woven cloth. They we made round to allow for the mounts to flex and not bind the shafts. They should not be pegged in with a grease fitting. The grease can also get hard binding the shaft and it attracts dirt. All things Ford intentionally got away from by using the fabric bushing. Now today guys are putting in brass bushings and they need lubrication. The brass has no grooves for proper distribution of the grease.

The driveshaft grease is likely more to hold the oil that leaks out the rear of the tranny close to the U joint. This oil is what lubricates the rest during operation, or at least contributes quite a bit.

Keep in mind the A went a lot of miles and never needed the grease fittings you think they need today. You are not putting anywhere the miles on the car like when they were new. No one seems to have a problem with any of those parts wearing out after a restoration. So you are likely just fixing lots of none problems. It is best to spend your time making sure you properly restore the parts to factory. Then worry more about when you are going driving next with your car cause it just keeps running with no problems.

I always have trouble understanding why people think that nothing could be better than the way Henry did it. He built things to a price. He did it well but to say that everything he did could not be improved upon makes no sense to me. The congested layout on the RHS of the engine for example is quite poor.
I drive the wheels off my Phaeton and want it to last as long as I can. Even now, if I could find one, I'd replace the bell housing. The bolts that hold the A frame ball coupling are VERY sloppy. I think I'll have to machine the holes out and fabricate something new.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've made spacers to fit the bellhousing bolt pockets, and these are just long enough to make up for the worn away cast iron.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I've made spacers to fit the bellhousing bolt pockets, and these are just long enough to make up for the worn away cast iron.

I did that already but it needs attention again. This time, I think I'll bore out the bolt holes and put a sleeve in them bringing the top up to the correct height at the same time.

[Brian in Wheeling]

Kevin in NJ....you are right on!
Brian

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Geez, based on the mindset above, I cannot believe no one has mentioned putting a grease fitting on the carburetor throttle shaft! Surely it sees WAY more moving action than what the clutch release shaft gets!!

What I also think that is ironic in this entire discussion is the notion that folks are going to actually grease the fittings. Based on my years in this hobby, -especially the last decade or so, most Model-As are lucky to get even a few fittings touched with a grease gun in a timely manner much less getting all of them ncluding any new ones added! Yes I know there are always a few exceptions of those whom are 'over-achievers' in maintenance and if these extra fittings makes them feel the fittings extend the longevity of their vehicle, then I say Go For It.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

...most Model-As are lucky to get even a few fittings touched with a grease gun in a timely manner ...

Guilty as charged!

I did, however, grease all the fittings I could find this past week. I even found a couple that I hadn't found before -- even though I have the chart hanging on the wall in the garage. I kinda loose track of when they get it, but try to remember to do it at least every spring before the heavy driving begins. I have even taken to putting these sort of things in a log I keep in the car all the time now. More for my own amazement than anything.

[RawhideKid]

Since it seems I am one of the few that do not have a lift available to do my own greasing, I asked one of my local mechanics what he charged for an "oil change", he said $29.95. I then asked him if that included greasing all the grease fittings, he said "cars don't have grease fittings" I chuckled and said, "mine does", he said "well, another $29.95 to grease the car."

Needless to say, I won't be taking my "A" there for a full service. I will probably wind up with the car on stands, greasing it from my back.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Geez, based on the mindset above, I cannot believe no one has mentioned putting a grease fitting on the carburetor throttle shaft!

Nah, just add MMO or ATF to your gas so as gas drips out of your worn throttle shaft it will lubricate it.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Nah, just add MMO or ATF to your gas so as gas drips out of your worn throttle shaft it will lubricate it.

Seems logical, ...and with the way most A engines leak out the rear main, why are we worrying about the front radius rod (wishbone) ball and the clutch release shaft? The ball was actually designed to be lubricated in that manner.

[denniskliesen]

Seems like grease fittings were like fan shrouds, naw don't need it, then later yah need a fan shroud same with grease fittings. My car has no fan shroud and no grease fittings on clutch brake pedals. I dribble some oil on those occasionally, same with the throttle shaft bolted to the back of the engine block, oil points.

Speaking of grease fittings, some of mine have been changed to Lincoln but most are still the original Alemite. I keep meaning to order some Alemite fittings and get them all the same again and I'm sure everybody that reads this thinks I'm nuts but I can get my original Alemite fittings to take grease and not leak from the grease gun tip. All of the Lincoln fittings and grease gun tip leak as much not going in as what does go in. What a mess and what I don't like about greasing. But I make sure my A stays greased. I bought my gun tip for the old Alemite fittings from Bratton's btw, works great.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Seems logical, ...and with the way most A engines leak out the rear main, why are we worrying about the front radius rod (wishbone) ball and the clutch release shaft? The ball was actually designed to be lubricated in that manner.

Quite so, Brent and I see absolutely no point putting grease fittings on there. I'm not sure the release shaft gets any oil from the rear main though. As it seeps out, the flywheel throws it around the bell housing and keeps it there till the motor is turned off, assuming oil isn't pouring out of the bearing. Once the car is stopped, it drains down and out via the radius rod ball, past the bolts and through the hole in the bell housing put there for the purpose. I doubt any finds its way UP to the release shaft, other perhaps a bit of an oil mist created by the flywheel flinging it about.
Keeping the pedal bushes in good order is important or once the one in the clutch pedal wears, the pedal will likely rub the exhaust flange. They do not hold any lubrication within themselves (we have to improvise) so I put a grease nipple on them. If I'm under there with a grease gun anyway, I see only benefit in making sure the release shaft is lubricated.
Just my perspective on it!

[1928Pickuppain]

I don't really buy the whole theory that no one regularly greases there model As. I feel like most of Guys today do; maybe not there modern vehicles, but there beloved as they do. I am actually one of those loonys who probably greases to much, my 85 cj7 and my A get greased every Sunday no matter what. No matter were I am it gets done. As a result I finally had to change my original ball joints in my jeep at 513,000 miles ( that was only becouse of an accident to boot). My A was warn out when I got it from a life time of hard use. Now it's time for its day to get truly redone. I'm a firm believer that if you change your oil and grease your vehicle often it will outlast you.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by 1928Pickuppain

I don't really buy the whole theory that no one regularly greases there model As. I feel like most of Guys today do; maybe not there modern vehicles, but there beloved as they do. I am actually one of those loonys who probably greases to much, my 85 cj7 and my A get greased every Sunday no matter what. No matter were I am it gets done. As a result I finally had to change my original ball joints in my jeep at 513,000 miles ( that was only becouse of an accident to boot). My A was warn out when I got it from a life time of hard use. Now it's time for its day to get truly redone. I'm a firm believer that if you change your oil and grease your vehicle often it will outlast you.

Yea thats a bit excessive :P I grease my moderns every oil change, much easier to deal with greasing the balljoints instead of having to replace the ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm, tierods, etc...

Altho im not 100% convinced that the greaseable U joints are better than the non greaseable kind...I always put a blob of grease in the caps of the non greaseable kind before assembly but they seem to last longer...

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by 1928Pickuppain

I don't really buy the whole theory that no one regularly greases there model As. I feel like most of Guys today do; maybe not there modern vehicles, but there beloved as they do.

Well, you surely don't need to "buy into" anything that I say, ...however as a Model-A repair shop owner, I probably get to experience a lot more scenarios on Model-As than you might get to, ....and most of those beloved Model-As that come thru here do not see much grease on the fittings.

As for modern vehicles, my 2017 Ford Edge does not have one single grease fitting that I know of on the undercarriage. I suspect many other "modern vehicles" are in the same scenario. Does kinda make you wonder how those cars can go 100k miles on suspension parts without grease fitting intervals before wear is noticeable however the 1960s-80 model vehicles have lube fittings on suspension parts yet 100k miles is about it as far as longevity is concerned.

[1928Pickuppain]

Brent,

I understand your point you obviously do far more model As than
I work on. I just know from my own experance that changing oil regularly and greaseing vehicles keeps them going longer. I work on enough cars /trucks and keep my fleet here at the shop on a regular scedual and those old girls all keep trudging along all F350s or E350s from early 90s a few much older., body's are getting sad but with most of them with well over 300k that the proof is self evident constant grease and fluid changes and all is well. Many years ago on here I posted a post about longevity of model a engine. And was told hands down that they just dont live longer than 100k I was concerned because I wanted to drive mine as a daily driver and it was already a high Mile motor having never been rebuilt to my knowledge. Well 100+ k Sence that post it's still running strong sounds like a damned diesel from the valves. My point is I just feel the evidence of Lubing and greasing regularly is plane to see and I have seen plenty of sealed bearings on these newer cars go in only about 8 years. Wether high mialage or low, sitting or rolling, they all have a ticking clock. If there's a point with any movement regular greasing and oiling will make it last. If anything it's not going to hurt it even if you have to cycle light weight greases In winter and heavier ones in summer.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by 1928Pickuppain

Brent,

I understand your point you obviously do far more model As than
I work on. I just know from my own experance that changing oil regularly and greaseing vehicles keeps them going longer. I work on enough cars /trucks and keep my fleet here at the shop on a regular scedual and those old girls all keep trudging along all F350s or E350s from early 90s a few much older., body's are getting sad but with most of them with well over 300k that the proof is self evident constant grease and fluid changes and all is well. Many years ago on here I posted a post about longevity of model a engine. And was told hands down that they just dont live longer than 100k I was concerned because I wanted to drive mine as a daily driver and it was already a high Mile motor having never been rebuilt to my knowledge. Well 100+ k Sence that post it's still running strong sounds like a damned diesel from the valves. My point is I just feel the evidence of Lubing and greasing regularly is plane to see and I have seen plenty of sealed bearings on these newer cars go in only about 8 years. Wether high mialage or low, sitting or rolling, they all have a ticking clock. If there's a point with any movement regular greasing and oiling will make it last. If anything it's not going to hurt it even if you have to cycle light weight greases In winter and heavier ones in summer.

As some of us stated above, if you feel it is going to make a difference, then go for it!!

[Tom Wesenberg]

At the national meets I see lots of Model A's with no lube on the brake rod pins, door hinges, and leaf springs.
I'd rather see grease than rust on these parts.

[warrene]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I've made spacers to fit the bellhousing bolt pockets, and these are just long enough to make up for the worn away cast iron.

I did exactly that also, cut fom a piece of 3/8 pipe, came out perfect, the pin thru; the bolts' ears now works also..