Sound deadening Q ?

[Bob Bidonde]

Hi Terry,
I think Ford read your mind, and that's why the doors have gobs of that tar-like stuff.

[Dick Carne]

You asked about sound deadening for roadster/touring car doors. When we first did our phaeton back in the 1960's, we stuffed the doors with fiberglass separated from the traditional house insulation roll. It seemed to substantially deaden the sound, and also added more of a "classic door closing sound" as well. Since these doors would otherwise be difficult to add a more conventional sound deadening material (like Dynamat, for instance), this seemed to be an otherwise inexpensive means of deadening the door sound. Perhaps the only real caveat that I can see is the possibility of trapped moisture inside the door, but we seldom drive our open cars in the rain (if we can help it), and are generally careful not to let water run down the side curtain rod opening in any event. After more than fifty years, no problems to this point.

[DkFordor]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

The science of sound deadening body panels is to change their mass.

Bob, that holds for vibrations of the car itself for sure. Does it hold for transmitted noises from the outside also?

\Dan

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by PotvinV8

Bob Bidonde's photos are a perfect example of how to apply any decent "deadener". You don't need to coat the entire door skin, roof, etc., small strips will suffice. Knock on the sheetmetal with your knuckles and you'll hear the difference. A little goes a long way.

While Bob's method may work well for the tinny body panels, it does nothing for engine and road noise and for heat.

I covered my entire floor in my Town Sedan with DynaMat, followed by Jute backed foil and finally carpet. Nice and quiet. I also insulated the fire wall.

I eventually went back and fully insulated the insides of the doors and body to make it even quieter inside.

[old31]

I agree 100% with Y.

Bob's method would change the sound/vibration of an item, but does nothing to truly soundproof or heat/air proof the car. On top of what Bob did I would apply Dynamat to all surfaces while the upholstery is out.

[DkFordor]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

What have you guys done (if anything at all ) to insulate the roof, soundwise and thermally?
Could a material like dynaliner, or something similar, be used above the metal net instead of the cotton wadding/padding?

\Dan

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I have used Dynamat, but more recently I have been using RoadKill. I have to order Dynamat and pay freight to get it here. RoadKill I can get locally. It is actually a little easier to work with and does a good job.

Hey Carl,
ROADKILL....eh ?
That's got to be one smelly car !!
And here I thot that A skunk, stuck up in the chassis was bad..whew !!
Never thot of insulating withem...lol

Lot of roadkill moose up that way....wonder how many cars/trucks one of those would do ?

[GeneBob]

DkFordor,
I sound deadened the sheet metal on my Tudor and have found that the roof really isn't a problem. I think the stock construction may work very well for insulation.

[PotvinV8]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

While Bob's method may work well for the tinny body panels, it does nothing for engine and road noise and for heat.

I'll give you that, but now we're splitting hairs as to the OP's original post!

I've found the Dynaliner product line works very well as a second layer of insulation on the floor, firewall and roof to block out additional heat and noise. It's available in a few different thicknesses as well.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Hey Carl,
ROADKILL....eh ?
That's got to be one smelly car !!
And here I thot that A skunk, stuck up in the chassis was bad..whew !!
Never thot of insulating withem...lol

Lot of roadkill moose up that way....wonder how many cars/trucks one of those would do ?

This is the "RoadKill" I use: