2 Tooth Steering Column

[Cape Codder]

I have my steering column disassembled and want to install new Spark and Throttle rods w/Anti-Rattlers. I am assuming that the STEERING UPPER BUSHING must be removed so that I can install the rods, and then the Anti-Rattlers. Question is: How do I remove the STEERING UPPER BUSHING?

[Brentwood Bob]

Don't believe you need to remove the bushing.
Did your column have the rods in place when you started disassembly?
Tricky part is placing the rods in the base of the column.
Bushing knocks out from the bottom.

[SteveB31]

Use a broom handle or long piece of pipe to tap it out.

[GRutter]

The rods are not the issue. They can be installed without removing the upper bushing. The real problem is the anti-rattlers. You will need to remove the upper bushing to replace the anti-rattlers on the spark and throttle rods

[700rpm]

It’s been a long time, but I seem to remember there is at least one screw holding that bushing in. Check for it before you try to drive the bushing out.

[Cape Codder]

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Thanks to all for the responses!

GRutter & 700rpm Seeing as you both said there are screws holding it, do they come from the side? I looked at both columns I have and cannot see any screws however, one of them is still painted.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

It’s been a long time, but I seem to remember there is at least one screw holding that bushing in. Check for it before you try to drive the bushing out.

The last design bushing that was used in some '30s and all '31's is just pressed in. it has a "V" that fits into a notch in the top of the column to orientates the bushing and keeps it from turning.

As stated before, drop the column over a pipe or broom handle and it should knock right out the top of the column.

A trick I learned when installing the spark and throttle rods, is to first insert them thru the bushing and slide the anti rattles onto them. Drop the rods and bushing into the top of the column but do not press the bushing in place quite yet. If you hold the tube at about a 45 deg. angle with the top surface of the column facing toward the ground, the rods will follow the inside of the column and easily find their way into thru their holes. Once you get one rod thru its hole, put a cotter pin or a piece of wire thru the hole on the end of the rod to keep it in place while you guide the other rod in place. Once both rods are thru their holes, press the bushing in place.

If you have had the rods re-plated, do a trial fit of the rods in the column and bushing to be sure they will fit and are not too big.

This is how I do it.

Chris W.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

The last design bushing that was used in some '30s and all '31's is just pressed in. it has a "V" that fits into a notch in the top of the column to orientates the bushing and keeps it from turning.

As stated before, drop the column over a pipe or broom handle and it should knock right out the top of the column.

A trick I learned when installing the spark and throttle rods, is to first insert them thru the bushing and slide the anti rattles onto them. Drop the rods and bushing into the top of the column but do not press the bushing in place quite yet. If you hold the tube at about a 45 deg. angle with the top surface of the column facing toward the ground, the rods will follow the inside of the column and easily find their way into thru their holes. Once you get one rod thru its hole, put a cotter pin or a piece of wire thru the hole on the end of the rod to keep it in place while you guide the other rod in place. Once both rods are thru their holes, press the bushing in place.

If you have had the rods re-plated, do a trial fit of the rods in the column and bushing to be sure they will fit and are not too big.

This is how I do it.

Chris W.

More good information.

[GPierce]

Page 1-303 in the RED book shows a screw just below the the control rods detent plate on each side, that secures the upper column bushing.
I can see both on my 2 tooth steering column

[Bob Bidonde]

See the Ford Service Bulletin of June 1930, Page 463. It describes the bushing and its change to eliminate its retention screws.

[Cape Codder]

So I looked at both columns AGAIN and found no screws however I checked a THIRD column (which I have always thought it was a 28/29 because it is shorter than the other two) and could see two circle like a screw head but no slot to put a screwdriver in.

I have also read "The Complete Model A" Ford Restoration Manual by Les Pearson who shows a picture & states on Page 60 "2 top bush retaining screws (with two red arrows pointing to the location)". He goes on to say, "Only on 7 tooth".

And then THANKS to Bob Bidonde
So I looked at both of my columns AGAIN and found no screws however I checked a THIRD column (which I have always thought it was a 28/29 because it is shorter than the other two) and could see two circle like a screw head but no slot to put a screwdriver in.

I have also read "The Complete Model A" Ford Restoration Manual by Les Pearson who shows a picture & states on Page 60 "2 top bush retaining screws (with two red arrows pointing to the location)". He goes on to say, "Only on 7 tooth".

And then THANKS to Bob Bidondefor showing me in the "Ford Service Bulletins" the change over as "Henry Die It".

Also, Thanks to GPierce for YOUR Info but I have to ask: do you know if the column you have is a 30/'31 or could it possibly have been changed? And I really don't know if that is possible? Just trying to learn something here!

I have also read else where that there could be some soldering connection. I will have to try and heat one of the columns and then see what happens!

Again, thanks to all that responded on this pretty frustrating project I have going!

[GPierce]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

So I looked at both columns AGAIN and found no screws however I checked a THIRD column (which I have always thought it was a 28/29 because it is shorter than the other two) and could see two circle like a screw head but no slot to put a screwdriver in.

Also, Thanks to GPierce for YOUR Info but I have to ask: do you know if the column you have is a 30/'31 or could it possibly have been changed? And I really don't know if that is possible? Just trying to learn something here!

Good question. I assumed since I had a two tooth steering box the column was a also 30-31. My column definitely has the two screws so it could it be a 28-29. I guess it could have been changed at some point in the last 90 years. Every other part on the truck appeared to be 30-31 when I had it completely disassembled for restoration.
Are there other noticeable differences between the 28/28 and 30/31?
I replaced the two tooth box with Randy’s F100 box for the 30-31 several years ago and everything fit right up.

[GPierce]

An addendum to the above, Snyder’s catalog references the bushing drilled for the two screws as 29-30 and bushings with vee to hold it as 30-31. This change is also referenced on page 399 of The Service Bulletins in addition to the page Bob Bidonde referenced.
The serial number on my frame indicates Oct. of 1930 but title says 31 so who knows. The frame is consistent with the changes made up to mid 1930. Probably didn’t sell until 31.
Another Model A mystery.

[Cape Codder]

Thanks for the Addendum! I can relate to the frame number vs title. Mine is titled as a '30 but some small things indicate it is an early '31.

[CWPASADENA]

We all have to remember that most of our cars are now ninety years old or more. A lot can happen in ninety years and things can get changed around.

Anyway, the change from 2 retaining screws to the "V" notch was made in mid 1930. That does not mean that all Model A's made after the change date were made the same with the new parts. Old design columns were used up and there may even could have been a time at an assembly plant when they were using both designs for a short period of time. so the old design could have run into the fall in some cases. Who knows.

Anyway, the new design did not use retaining screws.

I have a '30 with screws and 2 '31's without screws.

Chris W.

[Cape Codder]

Thanks Chris!