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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 1,210
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Just got a 46 Convert...nice looking car, needs a few tweaks. Largest issue is the convertible top is not working.
Any insights or past threads on getting it to work well in both directions? With the top 3 latches undone, and manually helping it about 2-3 inches, when I push the lever to lower it back, nothing happens. When I pull the lever, it does close that small few inch distance. So there is a small sign of life...any starting point guidance appreciated |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 541
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I did a 46 with a hydraulic system a little while back. The combined pump/reservoir is mounted on the firewall and is activated by a solenoid.
The switch under the dash starts the hydraulic pump and also selects the hydraulic circuit to either raise or lower the rams thereby moving the top. Use a starter jumper lead (it's a heavy current draw) to momentarily bridge across the pump solenoid. If you hear the pump run, the pump is OK. If the pump is OK, test the solenoid. Momentarily apply power to the small stud on the solenoid (I'm assuming+ve earth 6v) if you hear the pump run, the pump and solenoid are OK. If not, you'll need a new solenoid. On the one I did a few months back the pump motor solenoid was not the same as the starter solenoid. The pump solenoid needed power to operate, the starter solenoid needs earth - go figure. You can use a starter solenoid, but you need to change the switch wire feed from power to earth. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258476 If the solenoid is OK, the switch under the dash is possibly iffy. Very possible if it's working in one direction only. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marana, AZ
Posts: 1,194
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Agree, a nice looking car!!....but I might be a little biased!!
I had the same issue when I got my 47. Actually, nothing happened when I tried to activate the top motor etc. I wound up rebuilding the pump and replacing the hydraulic cylinders that raise and lower the top. A word of caution....the original hydraulic fluid in the system was brake fluid. I replaced it with ATF when I rebuilt mine. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU TAKE IT APART. If that's your situation, don't get brake fluid on that beautiful paint!!! ![]() Best of luck and enjoy your car!!.....Dick. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portersville Pa.
Posts: 173
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I have restored a few of these cars.The system can be troublesome.The best thing you can do is remove the pump system and the valve under dash board.Send it to Hydroelectric in Punta Gorda Florida, They are experts on getting these systems to work like new.Also you need to flush out all the oil lines.Then use ATF for fluid.Originally they used brake fluid a mistake as brake fluid absorbs water.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 1,210
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Thanks all. Another tip I got from AACA site is to disconnect that system from the top, and see how the top works manually up and down first. As the car has been sitting a long time, all the top irons may be “‘stuck in time” and hard to move in the first place. Thanks again,
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lower Hutt , New Zealand
Posts: 2,126
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GB
__________________
"you can't make honey out of dog sh*t" "You're a long time looking at the lid" |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 1,210
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It’s an AACA Senior winner and Dearborn winner
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Powell, TN
Posts: 2,509
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All good advice above. I set up a stand with hoses, valves and a gauge to check my pump. The valve worked to stimulate pressure against the cylinders by choking the flow down. The original cylinders were bad about failing.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 1,210
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For now if I just wanted to do the top manually up and down, can I remove the screw shown in the photo on each side? Any concerns challenges doing so? I appreciate all the help.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Powell, TN
Posts: 2,509
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Yes, you can remove the screw that holds end of your cyl. that will release the top from hydraulics. Another very important thing on 46-8 conv. is to always unsnap the buttons on both rear sides before lowering the top or damage will occur to the top material.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 1,210
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Great, thank you jimTN, I appreciate your response. This will allow me to enjoy the open car driving while I sort out the issue.
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#12 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Saint Marys PA
Posts: 14
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I have a 47 conv and I operate the top manually. It takes two people but it is not too bad.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southeastern, MA
Posts: 434
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Just make sure the disconnected cylinders do not interfere with the top iron movement. I found standing in the back seat allows you to pull up evenly on the top irons when lifting top to raise. I found one person can lower and raise a 46-48 top easily. By the way, the top on my current car does operate properly! I agree with "jimTN" don't forget the snaps on the sides of the top irons and behind the rear windows, forgetting them may cause tearing.
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#14 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 17
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Digger:
Very nice '46. I have been looking for a '47/'48 Ford convertible for neigh on 50 years. Yet to find one that meets my budget or expectations. Where did you find your '46? Bill Vancouver, bc |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 1,210
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So fortyonerag’s advice was spot on. Did tests and the selinoid is fine and the pump is fine. So now will double check the switch under the dash as best as possible, and most likely remove and send out for repair. In the meantime will do the top manually.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 541
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Good to hear, and glad to have been of help.
The switch gets its main feed from a small circular circuit breaker/overload unit mounted nearby. Check it has volts to both sides before you work on the switch. Avoid (if possible) removing the hydraulic components of the switch. Things will get messy otherwise! It is probably poor electrical connections on the rotary plate that constitutes the up/down selector. |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 1,210
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It works! There was a loose electrical connection at the switch, and the push/pull rod was out of adjustment. So now top is down and will be staying that way for quite a while. Thanks to all who helped, love the FordBarn!
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 541
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Way to go!
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#19 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta
Posts: 15
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Regent Classic Cars has one in Medicine Hat Alberta
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,634
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I have a '47 convertible I restored over a period of years. Most of the top operating mechanism was gone, so I designed a control box for the pump, and installed new cylinders and an after market pump. It has worked fine for years. Finding a good 46-48 Ford convertible is difficult. It took we years to locate mine. As I have reached 85, it is now for sale. I can be reached at 319/325-2978 (Iowa) for details
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