Frame Repair

[Cape Codder]

I have removed my steering column to have a look internally/rebuild. Well in fact, in my mind, it definitely needs my attention but
that is not my question.
After the removal I checked the two mounting holes and discovered they are BOTH elongated. I have thought of a way to rectify
the situation and would like pros and cons to my two idea's.

First is to cut a piece of the frame, square/rectangle, around the two holes and of course the sector shaft hole. Make a piece
exactly what I cut out and weld it in.
Second is to cut a piece of material, square/rectangle, drill to match the existing frame and weld the two nuts to the material.
When the column is reinstalled and bolted to the material then weld the material to the side of the frame.

Third is to weld the holes shut and then re-drill the hole BUT I really don't think I would be able to do that effectively. So I think I
would leave that as a last resort.

Again, pros or cons!
Thanks,
Cape Codder

[Brentwood Bob]

I have done the third way. There is a thread a few days back. Make a template, and weld up and redrill one hole at a time.
See steering box mounting frame holes, a few days ago.

[CabrioletDon]

Hi, Cape Codder...I'd like to offer a fourth solution that worked for me when I needed to re-form holes in the frame for the front cross member when I had to install a new one. How about using a short copper rod of the correct size for the finished hole to weld around? The easiest way to do this would be to make a template from a piece of copper sheet or bar from the bolt-on side of the steering box and drill the location of the bolt holes. Use one of the bolts and its nut to sandwich it to the inside of the frame and position it correctly. Insert the copper rod into the hole, it should indicate where the correct hole should be. Weld around it, using plenty of filler rod or wire, and make sure that penetration is full. The weld will not stick to either the copper rod or sheet. Then reverse the position of the bolt, nut and copper rod for the second hole. Grind both front and back surfaces flush, and you should be ready to go. I attached a couple of photos of how this worked for me, hope this helps! --CabrioletDon

[Mister Moose]

I just got through dealing with this problem, but yours sounds like it might be worse. Whichever method you choose, consider finding some aircraft AN7-11 bolts. They have a longer shank that supports the frame loads far better. The factory bolts are threaded where they pass through the frame, and if there's any movement, the threads get crushed, and then there's lots of movement, and that's when it goes bad in a hurry. You can also get an aircraft castle nut. My problem might be fixed just with the slightly larger diameter of the shank vs the threads, and a washer to provide more bearing surface and grip.

There's some photos there of the bolts and you can see the difference. You'll need to shop around the internet, my first 2 aircraft suppliers were out of stock, ended up getting them from a racing supplier!

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245986

Let me know if you'd like an assembled photo from the pitman side.

[daren007]

AN4-11 not AN4-11A

[Mister Moose]

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Also, It would be worth your while to do a test fit with just the sector housing. There are several issues that confound you:

1) The clearance between the bolt head and the sector shaft housing is so tight you cannot get a socket or a combination wrench on it.

2) An open end of typical length is obstructed by the engine mount bracket on one side and on the other side it's so close to the frame rail you can't get any bite there either. The wrench cheeks are just too wide and the angle is convoluted without an offset.

3) All this makes it problematic to place the nut on the inside, where as you can somewhat obstruct the head turning enough to get the nut to tighten. To get it really tight though is going to take some thought if the head rotates on you.

I just bought an offset combination wrench set in case I have to re-do or re-tighten these bolts. The plan is to grind off a side of the wrench box, make it into a widened flare nut type wrench so it both gives the needed offset and the interference portion of the wrench box is ground away. I might need to cut the length down as well for the motor mount issue. Another route might be a modified crows foot wrench.

I wonder what the factory did.....

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Joe, so exactly why do you feel this repair (repairing the hole size) needs to be done now? Granted if you are restoring the frame and have the vehicle disassembled, that would be the correct/best time to do so, -but at present, just re-install the column into the oversized holes and try to center it in the holes before tightening the sector housing to frame bolts. The column tube seated into the column support on the gas tank will set the correct angle for the assembly. Then tighten the column assy. to the frame with good fasteners and you will be fine.

[Cape Codder]

Thanks to Brentwood Bob, CabrioletDon
, Mister Moose, daren07
, for all your suggestions and information.

Brent - I have had a "Death Wobble" for some time and at end of July I decided to do something about it. The steering it self has not been smooth.

So I removed the backer plates to find that the drivers side of axle is oblong and thus the King Pin is rattling in it. I decided further that I would remove the steering column due to a lot of play in the steering wheel. When so doing I found that the two mounting holes were oblong sooooo...... while it was out why not try and repair it. By the way I also decided to disassemble the steering column rater then adjust it and check to see if everything was good in the column. Results are worm gear has two chips in it and one roller bearing has two rollers chipped. I most likely will replace the upper bearing race as it has some issues also.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Thanks to Brentwood Bob, CabrioletDon
, Mister Moose, daren07
, for all your suggestions and information.

Brent - I have had a "Death Wobble" for some time and at end of July I decided to do something about it. The steering it self has not been smooth.

So I removed the backer plates to find that the drivers side of axle is oblong and thus the King Pin is rattling in it. I decided further that I would remove the steering column due to a lot of play in the steering wheel. When so doing I found that the two mounting holes were oblong sooooo...... while it was out why not try and repair it. By the way I also decided to disassemble the steering column rater then adjust it and check to see if everything was good in the column. Results are worm gear has two chips in it and one roller bearing has two rollers chipped. I most likely will replace the upper bearing race as it has some issues also.

Ok, I understand the back story now however the truth being told, the 'wobble' in the steering system had nothing to do with those two elongated bolt holes. There are all kinds of ways to repair the holes, -but none of them are worth stressing over on how you accomplish the repair simply because repairing those holes will do nothing towards making the vehicle drive better. That is why my opinion is to leave it alone for now and focus on other things that do need repairing.

[mass A man]

I did exactly what Brent is describing to do, 10 years ago, no death wobble (never did) and the bolted-up assembly holds everything in place.