Are These Head Studs Long Enough?

[chap52]

Maybe off subject, "kinda". But when I installed a 6-1 head I also purchased new chrome moly studs from the same vendor. I believe it was Snyders. After a bit of research I found that when installing the studs it was advised by engine rebuilders to bottom them out in the holes and then back them out 1/2 turn. Chap

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by chap52

After a bit of research I found that when installing the studs it was advised by engine rebuilders to bottom them out in the holes and then back them out 1/2 turn.

Rich Fallucca at AER says that, but it's not universal advice. The reason for this recommendation is that, as the OP here found out, some heads/gaskets are taller than stock, so you need to back the studs out slightly to get full thread engagement on the head nuts. My Winfield replica head is the stock height, so I ran the studs down all the way and still had the regulation 1/32" of stud protruding above the head nuts.

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by philcobill

This is a photo of a nut on top of a head stud on the aluminum cylinder head I am trying mount on my 1929 Special Coupe's engine block. A gasket is in place and there is a washer under the nut. The stud is hand tightened into the block. The nut was tightened with a regular wrench and not torqued. I imagine that even if it is torqued the nut will not tighten much more. I tried backing off the stud to give more height above the surface of the head. However the studs were loose in the block when backed out to make a difference. My question is what should I do?

Get the right length studs and screw them all the way in. Common sense!
Bill