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Old 07-25-2021, 08:00 PM   #1
bosticjb
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Default Engine

What is the difference between a regular and a touring engine and who is the best builder I MAY NEED ONE
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Old 07-25-2021, 08:17 PM   #2
Patrick L.
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Default Re: Engine

A tour engine usually has a higher compression head and a regrind cam [ or new kinds 3/4 grind]

Rebuilding would probably depend on where you are.
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Old 07-25-2021, 08:39 PM   #3
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Default Re: Engine

I live in Wv
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Old 07-25-2021, 09:37 PM   #4
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Default Re: Engine

This is a whole debate with babbit vs inserts and personal opinions. Let me offer you this. Babbit is a little more tougher than inserts but is a big problem to replace if something goes wrong. Inserts are much more easy. Every modern engine since the 50s for the most part has had inserts, even before that too. Babbitt also takes somebody that has the tooling, equipment, and knowledge to do it. Inserts are easier to install.

In Northern Illinois we have Antique Engine Rebuilding. Rich has been doing it for over 30 years and does 100 to 150 engines a year for people all over of the country. He knows what he is doing and uses inserts. There are other places but personally I like them and I would not use babbit anymore because it is very hard to find somebody that truly knows how to properly do it.

Btw, a touring engine usually has the aforementioned hotter camshaft and high compression head, but also larger intake valves and bores to suck more air. I do believe they also have a lightened flyweel and sometimes a counterbalanced crank. Depends what you want to do with your car. You can go faster and have less take off time from a stop.
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Old 07-25-2021, 09:55 PM   #5
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Default Re: Engine

Just what is a 3/4 grind. Seriously give me s description of it..
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Old 07-25-2021, 10:14 PM   #6
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Just what is a 3/4 grind. Seriously give me s description of it..
It is a racing cam but not as extreme as a full race cam. Usually a touring engine gets a cam with a profile close to what was used in the model B engines.
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Old 07-26-2021, 04:44 AM   #7
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Default Re: Engine

Schwalm's is in eastern Pennsylvania. Closer to Charles Town than Charleston, though!
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Old 07-26-2021, 06:01 AM   #8
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Default Re: Engine

I was told several yrs ago that Schwalms is an xlnt engine rebuilder and that they only use 1 in 4 engine blocks, as the blocks are often shot.

on another thread currently running- it is mentioned that Berts only uses 1 in 12 engine blocks......... so there are various builders with various requirements.

do your due diligence. A complete touring engine is not inexpensive.
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Old 07-26-2021, 08:19 AM   #9
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Default Re: Engine

Consider the Terry Burtz engine. This is a new Model A engine with a modern bottom end.
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Old 07-26-2021, 11:06 AM   #10
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Default Re: Engine

Good Morning...You should do your research, however the Terry Burtz new block, crankshaft and rods will/should be the best option...cost might be a bit more...however, money well spent...Ernie in Arizona
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Old 07-26-2021, 11:29 AM   #11
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Default Re: Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrs1961815 View Post
This is a whole debate with babbit vs inserts and personal opinions. Let me offer you this. Babbit is a little more tougher than inserts but is a big problem to replace if something goes wrong. Inserts are much more easy. Every modern engine since the 50s for the most part has had inserts, even before that too. Babbitt also takes somebody that has the tooling, equipment, and knowledge to do it. Inserts are easier to install.

In Northern Illinois we have Antique Engine Rebuilding. Rich has been doing it for over 30 years and does 100 to 150 engines a year for people all over of the country. He knows what he is doing and uses inserts. There are other places but personally I like them and I would not use babbit anymore because it is very hard to find somebody that truly knows how to properly do it.

Btw, a touring engine usually has the aforementioned hotter camshaft and high compression head, but also larger intake valves and bores to suck more air. I do believe they also have a lightened flyweel and sometimes a counterbalanced crank. Depends what you want to do with your car. You can go faster and have less take off time from a stop.
Something worth mentioning in this. There is a misconception that if an insert bearing goes bad, it can be replaced with another insert. While the logic of this seems like that should be so, the issue is that most people wait until it is too late to replace the insert shell. When the thin bearing (soft metal) coating on the insert shell has been worn-away, the hard metal of the shell begins scratching the crankshaft journal pin causing that ground surface to become rough. So we can all imagine what happens next when a new insert shell is placed against a rough crankshaft pin.

Also, I have experienced several situations where the inserts were worn enough that before the driver could catch it, the bearing rotated in the main cap. When this happens, it will distort the cap. The proper way to correct this is to grind the cap and line-bore the block again. This generally means the pan rails and the main web needs to be surfaced by about 0.0005"-0.001" to make all the mains round again. Then the boring bar set-up must be changed to make sure the timing gear lash is not too tight.

So while the inserts can seem easier to do on the front side, there can be stress involved in redoing that conversion too. And for what its worth, there are plenty of quality craftsmen that can still cast bearings. The longevity is generally longer when the cast bearing is done correctly, however many hobbyists just want something done that will last them until they are done and then the next owner can "cleanup the mess" if something goes wrong.
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Old 07-26-2021, 12:43 PM   #12
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Default Re: Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronn View Post
I was told several yrs ago that Schwalms is an xlnt engine rebuilder and that they only use 1 in 4 engine blocks, as the blocks are often shot.

on another thread currently running- it is mentioned that Berts only uses 1 in 12 engine blocks......... so there are various builders with various requirements.

do your due diligence. A complete touring engine is not inexpensive.




What does xint mean ???


I would have recommended Schwalms for someone near the east coast.
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Old 07-26-2021, 12:44 PM   #13
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Default Re: Engine

And I meant to say Model B spec regrind, but, guess I didn't.
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Old 07-26-2021, 03:04 PM   #14
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What does xint mean ???


I would have recommended Schwalms for someone near the east coast.
"xint" means it is time to get new glasses. The word used was "xlnt" which I assume means excellent.

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Old 07-26-2021, 03:11 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens View Post
"xint" means it is time to get new glasses. The word used was "xlnt" which I assume means excellent.

Charlie Stephens



LOL. I guess I can see that now.
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Old 07-26-2021, 03:16 PM   #16
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These youngsters have all sorts of wild abbreviations!
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Old 07-26-2021, 07:50 PM   #17
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Default Re: Engine

Ok then what’s a 5/8 race cam.
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Old 07-26-2021, 08:01 PM   #18
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Default Re: Engine

Quote:
Ok then what’s a 5/8 race cam.

A little less than a 3/4 race cam... Sorry I couldn't resist...
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Old 07-26-2021, 08:03 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by daren007 View Post
Ok then what’s a 5/8 race cam.
More than 1/2 and less than 3/4!

Terry beat me to the punch!
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Old 07-26-2021, 08:51 PM   #20
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Default Re: Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C View Post
Something worth mentioning in this. There is a misconception that if an insert bearing goes bad, it can be replaced with another insert. While the logic of this seems like that should be so, the issue is that most people wait until it is too late to replace the insert shell. When the thin bearing (soft metal) coating on the insert shell has been worn-away, the hard metal of the shell begins scratching the crankshaft journal pin causing that ground surface to become rough. So we can all imagine what happens next when a new insert shell is placed against a rough crankshaft pin.

Also, I have experienced several situations where the inserts were worn enough that before the driver could catch it, the bearing rotated in the main cap. When this happens, it will distort the cap. The proper way to correct this is to grind the cap and line-bore the block again. This generally means the pan rails and the main web needs to be surfaced by about 0.0005"-0.001" to make all the mains round again. Then the boring bar set-up must be changed to make sure the timing gear lash is not too tight.

So while the inserts can seem easier to do on the front side, there can be stress involved in redoing that conversion too. And for what its worth, there are plenty of quality craftsmen that can still cast bearings. The longevity is generally longer when the cast bearing is done correctly, however many hobbyists just want something done that will last them until they are done and then the next owner can "cleanup the mess" if something goes wrong.
Brent you are completely right, I forgot to mention that. Funny as it has happened to me. Sometimes you can get lucky as the insert is softer than the crank and you can remove it with crocus cloth. But as you said, let it go too long/hot and it will score up the crank and you will need a different one or a regrind.

Debating between babbit vs inserts is like comparing apples to oranges. They are different and both have pros and cons as you know. I will say that if they are both done properly by somebody like you then they will last a long time. Seems we only here about the bad craftsmen though!
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