‘40 V8 stumbling when accelerating in 1st and 2nd

[mike42]

So…….

Got my rebuilt distributor and started to remove the old one. Any secrets to share on getting it out ? Do I remove the fan and unbolt the brackets holding the plug wires ? Anything you can share would be appreciated.

Thx…..Mike

[flatjack9]

All you need to do is pop the caps off, disconnect the vac line and ignition wire. Remove the 3 bolts and pull it out.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by Charlie ny

Here's my test results after installing the carb on my '32. The motor fired up and ran 100% for less than 5 miles (after warm up) then it was as stubborn as Michael
Driskell's goat. I limped home and got the carb on the bench, the acc pump was jammed in it's bore. Not mis aligned but stuck. I build 7 or 8 94's / week and this is a first. I'll get back to it after b'fast and see waaas sup.
Charlie ny

Same thing happened to me on the 60 hp in that MG. The accel pump stuck in the front carb. These are genuine Stromberg accel pumps.

[mike42]

Flat……..thx. I’m working on it. I have 4 bolts and tough to get to !

Mike

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by mike42

Flat……..thx. I’m working on it. I have 4 bolts and tough to get to !

Mike

4 bolts?? You should have 3 bolts if you are speaking of the distributor. Should be 1/2 wrench size. Note when you remove your distributor that the key on the back is off set so make sure you get that lined up correctly on the re-install. It will be a great help to get a couple 5/16-18 X 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 long bolts and cut the heads off into a stud, thread them into the top two holes and use them to slide the distributor on, then you can rest the distributor on them, use your thumb (or thumbs) on each side to reach in and turn your rotor while gently putting pressure on the distributor against the engine, rotate the rotor until you feel the keyway drop in. Once you feel it drop in, keep pressure against the distributor with one hand and use the other to install the third bolt, then remove one stuns and install the second bolt. Then you can remove the other hand and easily install the third bolt!!! Good luck!!

[Charlie ny]

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Referring back to #10 the only pump that was happy in the pump bore was an NOS
lamb skin part......Max Musgrove sent me few boxes of WW II Sorenson rebuild kits
and sure enough that pump seems to work. I was ready to change the bowl but hopefully
I won't have to. We'll see.
Charlie ny

[mike42]

Flat……that’s a great idea about making guide studs. I think my hardware already has those in stock and will check to. I was wondering how I was going to hold gasket in place and also install the distributor too ! Thx for that. I thought I had 4 bolts sorry !

Charlie ……..remember that the carb I sent you was the original from 1940. It was in a Holley box with a note saying it was the original one.

Thx all……Mike

[mike42]

Oops……..Rock I meant to thank you for the stud guide idea and not Flat sorry no offense !

[rockfla]

Mike
One of the handy ideas out there for this is to get three 5/16-18 x 1-1/4 or so Alloy Socket Set Screws and permanently install those in your block. Then you can use three hex nuts to bolt your distributor on that way……IF you are not having a point judged car OR not concerned with 100% originality?

[Charlie ny]

Mike,
The carb checked good this morning.....just so there is no confusion the carb came to me in a mailing box from the USPS.

Charlie ny

[uncle max]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Same thing happened to me on the 60 hp in that MG. The accel pump stuck in the front carb. These are genuine Stromberg accel pumps.

This is the reason I polish ALL accelerator pump bores.

[slowforty]

Dont forget to wear a long sleeve shirt when working on the 40 distributor. Dont ask me how I know. 6 or 8 decent scratches with a pint of blood loss to the Flat Head Gods.

[mike42]

Guys ………

All installed and I’m damn glad Rock suggested using locating pins in a couple of the holes to hold the gasket and slide the distributor on ! It’s not a hard job it’s just a confined area.

Slow…….I wore my denim long sleeve ! I’ve drawn enough blood �� in the past, but thanks. A little warm at 76° and 82% humidity though !

Said a Hail Mary (I’m not even Catholic) hit the button and fired right up and idled perfect at 500 rpm. Going to have some lunch and take for a ride ! More later….

Charlie……I thought I packed it pretty good. Was there damage ?

Thx for all the assistance guys. Much appreciated !

Mike

[Charlie ny]

Mike,
The carb was packed properly and zero damage.
Charlie ny

[mike42]

Took a 18 mile run and it runs great at cruising, but still a slight stumble in 1st and 2nd acceleration. Charlie NY is reworking the other carb so we’ll see after that.

The distributor I took out was stamped SP and the cast number on the side of main housing is a circled 3.

Thx…..Mike

[mike42]

Charlie okay thx.

[mike42]

Everything reinstalled with carb, distributor and rebuilt coil. Still stumbled a bit after warm up. I turned out idling screws a half turn more and now the stumbling is intermittent ! This is crazy as hell and driving me nuts !

[Als48]

A poor connection at a plug wire will do that.

Al

[mike42]

Als....I've gone through and checked each plug to make sure that they are tight.

What I did do that sounds crazy....I opened up the idle screws in the back of carb another half turn and believe it or not it seems to help a great deal !!

Work in progress, but at least I'm able to drive it more.

Thx.....Mike

[SoCalCoupe]

Just my 2 cents but because my windshield wipers don't work, I suspected a vacuum leak in the wiper circuit. I removed the windshield wiper hose, and put an Autozone rubber cap on the manifold vacuum connection. That made a noticeable difference.