Fuel filter best location

[dean333]

I have 33 Tudor, came to me with an electric pump that runs all the time. After filling the tank the other day, added 8 gallons. It ran about a mile, sputtered and stopped. After a tow home I found no gas from the line before the flex line. I can hear the pump buzzing. It has a filter located just before the electric pump which I’m going to remove on the next warm day. Shall I keep the filter there or move it AFTER the mechanical pump? What’s the best type filter? Thanks!

[Newc]

Filters generally like pressure NOT suction. Newc

[TJ]

Leave the filter between the tank and the pump. Once the filter is removed and you find a lot of crud in it you should be looking to completely clean out the tank or replace the tank. I think you have a real problem. If the tank has previously had sealer in it the sealer may be coming loose and plugging the filter. Had that happen to me and I replaced the tank.

[dean333]

Who offers the best replacement tank?

[Newc]

Be aware that many repro tanks may not take the original sending units. [King-sealy] Newc

[aussie merc]

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leave that filter where it is that crud that blocked the filter could well have wrecked the pump $5.00@ well spent

[corvette8n]

Do you know brand/model pump you have?, on my ‘41 the previous owner installed an electric pump with a filter before and after the electric pump. Mine doesn’t run all the time it has a switch under the dash that I use to prime the carb. The car runs fine off of the original mechanical pump once started.

[kurt v]

Be careful of that pump running all the time, hook it up so that if the motor stops the pump stops. Accident happens your pump will still be pumping gas.
kurt

[dean333]

After pulling and cutting open the filter, there was crud on one side between the screen and outer skin of the filter. The previous owner of five years said the tank was new when he got the car. He used to drain the tank every year, run the car til it quit and not gas it up til the next spring. I think that was backwards, allowing condensation in the empty tank over the winter. At any rate, I’m removing the electric pump and go with a new filter and the stock pump. Forty years of flatheads, never had a vapor lock or pump failure.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by dean333

After pulling and cutting open the filter, there was crud on one side between the screen and outer skin of the filter. The previous owner of five years said the tank was new when he got the car. He used to drain the tank every year, run the car til it quit and not gas it up til the next spring. I think that was backwards, allowing condensation in the empty tank over the winter. At any rate, I’m removing the electric pump and go with a new filter and the stock pump. Forty years of flatheads, never had a vapor lock or pump failure.

[Pete]

Here is a permanent solution to your problem.
You may not like it or can not afford it but it works every time.

First you have to assume the tank is solid enough so that when the rust and scale inside is removed, there will still be enough metal left so it does not leak.

Next you find a metal finishing company that does stripping or sometimes the process is called "pickling".
You have the tank stripped, then have it either Parkerized or Bonderited. These are etch type finishes used for rust and scale prevention. No further treatment is needed for the inside after this. The outside can be painted.
This should last you forever.

With any electric fuel pump installation there should be an inertial cut off switch installed, as previously mentioned, even if the pump does not run all the time.

The filter should be between the tank and pump. It is there to protect the WHOLE system.

[Gene1949]

My application
There is a filter on the bottom of my old Stewart Warner "thumper" pushing thru the stock fuel filter on the pump

[Ken/Alabama]

I cleaned my tank in my 40 via the electrolysis method . Worked really great removing rust then treated it with a kit from POR to seal it. Ended my problems.

[dean333]

I’ve used the electrolysis method twice too with great success. I took the electric pump apart today, I think that was the main problem. I’ll update once I put it back together with only a gas filter, no electric pump.

[Flathead Fever]

The filter needs to be installed "before" the electric fuel pump to protect the pump. That is what the instructions say on an Airtex fuel pump. The filter and pump both should be located close to the fuel tank so it can quickly prime the pump. That is the way I have always installed them. As far as the oil pressure safety switch (12V), they recommend wiring the switch near the oil pressure sending unit so if the engine loses oil pressure it will shut off the pump. Now, with all the foreign parts made failing I'm not sure that I want the safety switch. If you do run one, I would at least carry a bypass wire so you could bypass the switch in case it did fail. Order the correct pressure electric fuel pump for the pressure rating of the carb so you don't need to install a pressure regulator.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Ken/Alabama

I cleaned my tank in my 40 via the electrolysis method . Worked really great removing rust then treated it with a kit from POR to seal it. Ended my problems.