Stuck rear drums on 33 Vicky

[KeithH]

New member here. I'm trying to get my late father-in-law's '33 back on the road.
It has sat for a long time in his garage. I've done the fuel tank, lines, and fuel pump.
She runs like a top, BUT stopping is another story. He has converted it to hydraulic
brakes some time in the past, but I'm not sure what they are from. There are 5 screws
between the studs. Could this be a separate drum/hub combo? I'm to the point of
trying to remove it, that it is actually picking the car up from the Jack stand that I'm
using to keep the axle from rotating. It is supported by others underneath.
The screws are really dug in, and I don't want to damage the drum or screws by going further. The castle nut is on strictly for protection when the drum does pop off. There is plenty of space. Any ideas or advice is appreciated. Thanks!

[ScubaChief60]

Humm... looking at your photo I am thinking that those screws when removed would free up the drum to slip it off... I'd be trying that if in your shoes.

But, I have never seen a setup like that so wait on other responses first.

[Bored&Stroked]

Kind of a weird setup . . . though it still looks to have original tapered axles, so my guess is that those screws are to hold the drum onto the flange of the hub. It would probably not hurt to take the screws out - as the worst that can happen is the hub pulls off and the drum stays. I would make a mark as to where the drum is indexed to the hub - as the drums were probably turned after they were mounted.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by KeithH

New member here. I'm trying to get my late father-in-law's '33 back on the road.
It has sat for a long time in his garage. I've done the fuel tank, lines, and fuel pump.
She runs like a top, BUT stopping is another story. He has converted it to hydraulic
brakes some time in the past, but I'm not sure what they are from. There are 5 screws
between the studs. Could this be a separate drum/hub combo? I'm to the point of
trying to remove it, that it is actually picking the car up from the Jack stand that I'm
using to keep the axle from rotating. It is supported by others underneath.
The screws are really dug in, and I don't want to damage the drum or screws by going further. The castle nut is on strictly for protection when the drum does pop off. There is plenty of space. Any ideas or advice is appreciated. Thanks!

[Allinger]

Many modern rotors are held to the hub by tapered head screws. Maybe slotted head screws these are doing the same thing?

[Ray in La Mesa]

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I would try an impact screwdriver on those, the shock might loosen them.

[34fordy]

I believe a KR Wilson or Vintage Precision puller would do the "trick." A good puller is needed for the tough ones!

[itslow]

Have you backed the brake shoes away from the ID of the drum?

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by itslow

Have you backed the brake shoes away from the ID of the drum?

OR since you said they were changed to "hydraulic" loosen the bleeder screw and take the pressure off the shoes.

[Mart]

It is lifting because of the way you are trying to stop the rotation. Use a long lever or make a tool to stop the rotation. A long piece of angle bolted to the studs for example. Leave the screws. Use the tool as normal to pull the whole hub and drum assembly. If it binds after the initial pop then back off the brakes.

Make sure the nut is backed off.

A photo of the setup without the puller on might be useful.

Once off you might find nuts on the back of the screws.

Mart.

[Bored&Stroked]

Also, sometimes it helps to heat up the area of the drum where the taper resides.

[KeithH]

Originally Posted by Ray in La Mesa

I would try an impact screwdriver on those, the shock might loosen them.

Only thing I worry about is stripping them. They are pretty shallow. My screwdriver is almost the exact width and pretty heavy. The shaft actually runs through to the top. I've given it a couple of hits with a heavy hammer trying just that, but it still just wants to slip out of the slot. Just about every screw on this is slotted. LOL.

[KeithH]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Also, sometimes it helps to heat up the area of the drum where the taper resides.

I've been told that. Going to try it this weekend. Thanks.

[KeithH]

Originally Posted by rockfla

OR since you said they were changed to "hydraulic" loosen the bleeder screw and take the pressure off the shoes.

Not sure how to back the shoes off. Not sure there is a lot of pressure left in the cylinders since the pedal now goes to the floor and you can see the fluid all over the drum now. The passenger side is even worse. It ran down the inside of the tire. I won't know what cylinders to order to replace til I get the drums off. It's a vicious cycle I'm telling you.

[cas3]

I can't tell, are thee drums over the hub, or behind the hub? No matter, I agree with mart, take the whole thing off the axle. for the screws, when you heat a piece of steel, it expands. When it cools, it shrinks to smaller than it original size. So...heat the screw head to red hot carefully to not melt or distort the slot, then let it cool completely and it should come loose.

[richard crow]

the drum is behind the hub removing the screws will not help help. there is onley one puller for the ford . KR WILSON. by one there expensive but they work the other ones you see dont come close. when your done you can sell the puller & get most of your money back

[aussie merc]

dont know what tooling you have access to but had like problems when i removed mine for the 1st time 1 leave the nut on the axle this will keep the thread in condition and stop it crushing the splitpin hole just make sure the hub has about an1/8 of an inch to move 2 keep as much pressure on the tool as you dare then with a hammer and soft[brass] drift give the hub several good whacks between the collar and plate I have access to an air hammer with a hammer bit worked wonders

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by richard crow

the drum is behind the hub removing the screws will not help help. there is onley one puller for the ford . KR WILSON. by one there expensive but they work the other ones you see dont come close. when your done you can sell the puller & get most of your money back

FOR THE RECORD
There is NOT "only one puller for Ford". Vintage Precision make "THE" best puller on the market. As Richard Crow stated, They are expensive....BUT the expense of the Vintage Precision becomes very reasonable the first time you use it....THEN you realize the worth of what you just bought!!! NONE better IMHO.

[richard crow]

rockfla am i wrong. but i think vintage precision makes the exact copy of the wilson

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by richard crow

rockfla am i wrong. but i think vintage precision makes the exact copy of the wilson

No Sir, not exact.....very close. The KR Wilson I have seen pushes against the axle itself OR at best you might be able to thread the axle nut on flush and use the axle and nut in combination. The Vintage Precision has a hardened piece that threads onto the axel and helps line the whole assembly nice and straight and true and serves as a pushing "pad" between the axle and the push bolt so you have NO chance of messing up your axle or axle threads!!!! Vintage Precision calls it a "Thrust Plate", Slight difference I know BUT its a very well thought out product. The clam shell design in conjunction with the thrust bolt,thrust plate, thrust nut and sleeve keep ALL components in about a truest of alignment as possible, IMO anyway