32 Model B Cabriolet steering adjustment

[John Helm]

Hi,
I’m in need of some help concerning the steering in my 32 Model B Cabriolet. The steering system is all original. The problem is that while making a right hand turn, the steering gets very tight and I’m not able to make a sharp turn. This causes the car to swing wide into the opposing lane while making the turn. Sometimes it’s real bad and I’ve actually had to abandon the turn and end up going straight through the intersection. Turning left is fine and I’m able to make a normal sharp turn. I haven’t begun to work on this yet since I thought I’d ask some advice from the pros first. It seems that the steering isn’t centered, so I’d like to know if anyone has a procedure for centering the steering. The alignment is fine and there doesn’t seem to be any excess play in the steering wheel. I have the service instructions and have read the steering gear section at the end of the book but it doesn’t really address this particular problem of centering. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
John

[David J]

How long is the drag link ?
Are you sure you have the properly indexed pitman arm ?

Did this issue just start or was it after working on the steering ?

[DavidG]

John,

What you need are pages 79-82 of the December, 1932 Service Bulletin. It is the go-to set of instructions for all '32-'36 steering gear rebuilding and adjustment, including centering of the sector gear on the worm gear. An inexpensive reprint of the 1932 Service Bulletins (full size with an orange cover) has been available for decades and they show very frequently in good used condition on ebay and Amazon. Fresh copies are handled by a number of the well know reproduction parts houses.

[John Helm]

Thanks for the responses. I'll measure the drag link and double check the Pitman arm. I never worked on the steering, but the restoration shop I had the car at years ago probably did. I've only driven the car for 200 miles so far, but the problem has been getting worse recently.
I do have the December 1932 reprint of the Service Bulletin. I'll re-read it carefully and follow the procedures after checking that I have the proper Pitman arm/drag link. Thanks again.

[John Helm]

The drag link is 27.5". I have to run out now but I'll verify the Pitman arm when I return.

[Kurt in NJ]

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have you checked--filled the lubricant

[1931 flamingo]

X2.
Paul in CT

[John Helm]

That's on my to-do list. It could be low but I haven't had any leaks in the garage... maybe while driving.

[Kurt in NJ]

jack up the front end, see if you can turn to stops
measure the free play at different wheel positions to left---right, the least play at center
see if position of least play is with wheels straight
if tie rod /drag link balls are worn they could be too tight when turning, adjust with wheels turned to lock

[John Helm]

OK, I jacked up the front end and tested the steering on each side. The steering wheel makes a complete 1 & 1/2 turns on the left side without resistance. On the right side however, after 1/4 turn there's significant resistance but I can make the entire 1 & 1/2 turns. Then I checked the steering gear box and it was dry. I guess I should replace the gaskets before refilling the box. Is this set from Mac's appropriate? http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_me...eces-ford.html
Thanks again.

[John Helm]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

jack up the front end, see if you can turn to stops
measure the free play at different wheel positions to left---right, the least play at center
see if position of least play is with wheels straight
if tie rod /drag link balls are worn they could be too tight when turning, adjust with wheels turned to lock

Thanks Kurt, I was posting before I saw your response. I'll also follow the procedure you outlined.

[DavidG]

If the box is dry, it is almost 100% certain that the bearings are shot, at least for sure the one at the bottom of the worm gear. Likely also is that the bearing surface on the bottom of the worm gear is damaged. It sounds like it's time to pull the steering column assembly for a complete overhaul. You'll have to pull the column to replace the gaskets, in any event.

[John Helm]

Originally Posted by DavidG

If the box is dry, it is almost 100% certain that the bearings are shot, at least for sure the one at the bottom of the worm gear. Likely also is that the bearing surface on the bottom of the worm gear is damaged. It sounds like it's time to pull the steering column assembly for a complete overhaul. You'll have to pull the column to replace the gaskets, in any event.

Thanks David, I'll definitely do this. I actually already have a complete gasket set from Bob Drake which looks to be the same as Mac's. After disassembly I'll order any worn parts for replacement. At least it'll give me a chance to restore the steering column tube and steering wheel which I've been putting off. Have a great weekend everyone.
John

[Kerk]

Just a note. BE sure NOT to BEND the light rod. Be cardful when taking it apart. kerk

[32phil]

The best advice I can give concerning 32 steering boxes is that You Must

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE FORD FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN TO THE LETTER

If you do that IN THE EXACT ORDER SPECIFIED You will be happy with the result

[earlyride]

If you find out you need to replace the worm gear, it might be a good time to go with the 15 ratio instead of the 13 for easier steering.

[John Helm]

Great, thank you for all the replies and excellent advice. I've made good progress, but I'm stuck at one point. How do I remove the upper bearing cup in order to remove the bearings and worm gear?
[IMG][/IMG]

[David J]

Should just tap out .
Try an open end wrench that just fits over the shaft and hold it against the locking sleeve .

The tube in the pic may be a good idea if you don't already have one .

Fred at Southside Obsolete in Fairbault MN should have it .

I have a few but he has more .

[DavidG]

The upper bearing cup is just a slip fit, although if the steering gear box was out of grease it might be held in place with fried grease given the proximity to the left side exhaust manifold. David Js method to extraction should work however. The '33+ combination end plate and tube in David's photo will be a good addition as it pretty much eliminates grease leaking out from the bottom of the box. While you have it apart you might consider having a modern grease seal installed in the outer end of the sector housing as well as substituting '36 roller bearings for the bushings in the sector housing.

[John Helm]

Thank you, this is all great info. I'll give that a try in the morning. I actually have one of those tubes brand new in a bag, but I never knew what it was for. Do you think that if I use Penrite Steering Box Lube I can get away with the original type gaskets? I've read some very good reviews on it and I actually ordered some from Restoration Supply Co in CA. Apparently it resists leaking.