Restore or not to restore

[oldredford]

This is my 1940 Ford 4 door sedan that I should of not bought. Its mine now so I got to deal with it. I have to say this is my first bad deal in this hobby. The owner assured me it was a rust free car. Not true... The car was full of rodents mice and or rats. When I first opened up the door I about puked my guts out because of the pee smell. They did considerable amount of rust damage. The car is not economically worth to restore. It can be restored but you will have more into the car than what it is worth. I bought the car sight un seen, so I took a gamble and lost. I did have a second set of eyes look at this car but was told he was legally blind and could not smell. The only thing in my favor is this car has a excellent running flathead and transmission and a working Columbia. What is sad about this deal is the seller is a member of the Early Ford V8 club of America and is a local member of a charter club. Now, if I could find me a nice coupe body.

[32phil]

How bad is it?
If it's roadworthy perhaps you can drive it/enjoy it as is.

[Capt Kirk]

Your understanding of "rust free" may be different than someone else's. Some pictures of the problem areas would be helpful. It could be that these areas may be a deal breaker for you but a "normal repair" for others on here that have the tools and experience with that type of car and that type of rust.

[Seth Swoboda]

oldredford, that looks like a pretty decent car. Where is the rust and what are the major problems with it?

[oldredford]

Tool tray and lower deck lid panel rusted out. Floor pans have rust holes. Door seals part of roof rust out. All can be repaired.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Hmmm....."The owner assured you that the car was rust-free." That's just about as much of a blatant lie as a couple of the vendors claiming some of their crap to be "an exact reproduction", or that the part in question " fits perfectly", when in fact, a torch and a BFH are necessary to facilitate any kind of fitment or potential use. Some of these a-wipes don't even deserve the consideration of a NEW rope. DD

[Jack E/NJ]

>>> restore the car and loose money. This car will make an easy restoration.>>>

These 2 terms seem contradictory. Jack E/NJ

[blucar]

It sounds to me like the car has some pretty serious issues..
I know we all hate to admit that we made a mistake, however, there is a point where we have to admit that we are in over our head and it is time to move on. Once you start throwing money and time at the project it quickly becomes a money pit. Antique cars are a poor investment at their best.

[tomkowal]

if it was me, i would drive as-is. I have driven cars and trucks a lot worse, as long as the rust isn't a safety issue..........

[tubman]

">>> restore the car and loose money. This car will make an easy restoration.>>>

These 2 terms seem contradictory. Jack E/NJ"

Sometimes, it's really easy to lose money.

[TJ]

The option would be to look for a good fordor body. There's lots of fordors out there that are not running with good bodies and they are cheap. you can probably buy a good body cheaper than you can fix the one you have.

[Ron Pilger]

Drive it like you stole it. Show it. Be visible with it. You will cross paths with someone who will fall in love with it, in spite of the car's warts and imperfections. And, you will be able to part with it in good faith, without any exaggeration, apology and without any misrepresentation. It's tough enough to come out close to breakeven when restoring a 3 Window or a Cabriolet. Don't put money into a Tudor or Sedan hoping to get ahead financially.

[oldredford]

Originally Posted by tubman

">>> restore the car and loose money. This car will make an easy restoration.>>>

These 2 terms seem contradictory. Jack E/NJ"

Sometimes, it's really easy to lose money.

What I am trying to say is areas of rust out is easy to repair. The cost to restore is estimated around 15k.... The average appraisal of a restored 4 door is 20k. If I restore the car l will have nearly 30k invested. So, easy to restore and easy to loose money...

[qmdv]

And all this time I thought you were supposed to burn the receipts. Maybe just sell it.

[TomT/Williamsburg]

I would drive it around with a for sale sign on it as much as you can. Like it has been said, some one will want it with only a smaller loss of around the $10k you probably have in it vs dumping a lot of time and money into it. Once it's gone you lick your wounds and move on. I know many of us here have had the same experience - sometimes you get the bear but sometimes the bear gets you ....

[TJ]

Originally Posted by TomT/Williamsburg

I would drive it around with a for sale sign on it as much as you can. Like it has been said, some one will want it with only a smaller loss of around the $10k you probably have in it vs dumping a lot of time and money into it. Once it's gone you lick your wounds and move on. I know many of us here have had the same experience - sometimes you get the bear but sometimes the bear gets you ....

Excellent advice. Lose a little money and save LOTS of time. Don't buy anything sight unseen and based on somebody's word. Take the sale money ,add some to it, and go shopping for the best you can find. As TomT says we have all been there a time or two. Lots of nice fordors out there for not a lot of money.

[AnthonyG]

All sheet metal is available, the pieces u'r talking ain't that much. I wouldn't do a full up resto nor would I part out a car that is a sound driver. didn't hear anything about the frame so sounds like a solid foundation. If runs / drives maintain and have fun driving. I'd buy the sheet metal and cut out the bad stuff a bit at a time using an inexpensive trigger feed flux wire gasless mig welder. Cheap one for sheet metal less than a couple of hundred$, practice stitch welds a bit on junk sheet metal, u'll find it's pretty easy and u'll be doing primer mud & primer covering any ugly welds anyway. Areas u fix a bit at a time primer and drive in between. If when u'r done with the sheet metal u wanna spend the larger amount on paint decide then. U may put a lot of time in it but no way $15K. If u can't / won't / don't want to do the work u'r self, blow it out, u may get more than u think if not in a hurry. U live U learn, especially not to trust the verbal great shape & rust free. I have an E Coast Olds 442 i've had since my 20's. lot's of rust in typical places, car was cheap then, wanted a muscle car so bought, 68 now, car looks great, formula same as I indicated. Always drove, took off road a week or two at a time decided as my income could take what to do next as I went over 40 yrs. Could have sold for more than I paid at any time as value increased with work done.

[Seth Swoboda]

I've driven late model pickups in worse shape than your '40 Fordor.

[34pickup]

Just keep it until inflation makes it more valuable than what you paid for it, then sell it. ☺

[19Fordy]

Ron and 34pickup have great suggestions. Also consider your age and how long restoration would take as well as cost. Personally, I would sell it with an honest representation. But, it all depends on how much you are willing to loose compared to what you paid. Tough call.