The Ford Barn

Smitty · 06-29-2012, 09:34 PM

Anyone have any tips/ tricks for removal of cylinder head studs from a 59A block without breaking them?
Also valve guides.

Thanks, Steve

Henry/Kokomo · 06-29-2012, 10:09 PM

Heat, penetrating oil and prayer, not necessarily in that order.

37fordpickup · 06-30-2012, 11:47 AM

I have one of those stud tools you use with a 1/2" drive socket, but pipe a wrench works better. The pipe wrench will leave some marks on the studs. The stud tool is available at several places for about $30.

oldford2 · 06-30-2012, 12:34 PM

Use the search function at the top of this page.
Enter "valve guide removal".

Many good threads on this subject.

#1 you must have the long valve fork tool. If the guides are not stuck too bad you may be able to pry the guide down to pull the horseshoe clip. If they are stuck and they are straight stem valves then pry the spring up and remove the valve stem keepers. Then pull the valve out and you can drive the guide down to loosen it. If they are mushroom bottom valves you will have to get in with a grinder with a cutoff disc and cut the spring and valve stem to get the valve out. This would contaminate the block with grit so don't cutoff unless the block is going to be tanked.
John

Yoyodyne · 07-01-2012, 03:05 PM

Snap On sells a nice stud removal tool that grips the threads of the stud like a collet. It's expensive, but very nice to use. Won't breaks the stud loose though, so I broke them loose with a pipe wrench and turned them out with the Snap On tool.

bobH · 07-01-2012, 05:48 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

The collet-type tool that I have used was made in Germany - doesn't have any other markings. I'll have to check-out the Snap-On tool - it might be the same, or similar.
In-any-event, the tool grips very well, and it doesn't leave any noticable mark on the studs, so they can be re-used without evidence of things like pipe wrenches.
What I don't see mentioned here... The use of a 'substantial', air-driven impact wrench is a necessity. I don't know of any way to 'muscle' them out, without breaking a few. The last block that I did, a 59-type, had all the studs REALLY stuck (& rusty). It probably took me the better part of an hour & half to get all 48 out, one broken, and 47 totally re-usable - using this tool & a big impact.

oldford2 · 07-01-2012, 06:41 PM

{"In-any-event, the tool grips very well, and it doesn't leave any noticable mark on the studs, so they can be re-used without evidence of things like pipe wrenches"]
If you are doing a first class rebuild, don't use old studs.

JMO
John

37fordpickup · 07-02-2012, 09:34 AM

I agree with John. I spent the money and installed new studs and nuts. Damn they look good. Now I have a bucket full of used studs from my 21 stud and 24 stud motors.

Capn John · 07-02-2012, 09:41 AM

Lotsa PB Blaster, time, more PB, time, whack it on the top with a small sledge, PB, time, etc. Instead of PB you may use a combo of ATF and acetone. The acetone dissipates fairly quickly while the automatic transmission fluid soaks in. Use the same pattern as above. TIME aka patience!!

The manufactured stud pullers work great.

06-29-2012, 10:09 PM	#2
Henry/Kokomo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kokomo, Indiana Posts: 1,731	Re: Head Stud Removel Heat, penetrating oil and prayer, not necessarily in that order.

06-30-2012, 11:47 AM	#3
37fordpickup Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Greeneville, TN Posts: 127	Re: Head Stud Removel I have one of those stud tools you use with a 1/2" drive socket, but pipe a wrench works better. The pipe wrench will leave some marks on the studs. The stud tool is available at several places for about $30.

06-30-2012, 12:34 PM	#4
oldford2 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: pittsfield, MA Posts: 2,086	Re: Head Stud Removel Use the search function at the top of this page. Enter "valve guide removal". Many good threads on this subject. #1 you must have the long valve fork tool. If the guides are not stuck too bad you may be able to pry the guide down to pull the horseshoe clip. If they are stuck and they are straight stem valves then pry the spring up and remove the valve stem keepers. Then pull the valve out and you can drive the guide down to loosen it. If they are mushroom bottom valves you will have to get in with a grinder with a cutoff disc and cut the spring and valve stem to get the valve out. This would contaminate the block with grit so don't cutoff unless the block is going to be tanked. John Last edited by oldford2; 06-30-2012 at 12:49 PM.

07-01-2012, 03:05 PM	#5
Yoyodyne Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lancaster PA Posts: 535	Re: Head Stud Removel Snap On sells a nice stud removal tool that grips the threads of the stud like a collet. It's expensive, but very nice to use. Won't breaks the stud loose though, so I broke them loose with a pipe wrench and turned them out with the Snap On tool.

07-01-2012, 05:48 PM	#6
bobH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: so cal, placerville, vegas Posts: 1,395	Re: Head Stud Removel Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) The collet-type tool that I have used was made in Germany - doesn't have any other markings. I'll have to check-out the Snap-On tool - it might be the same, or similar. In-any-event, the tool grips very well, and it doesn't leave any noticable mark on the studs, so they can be re-used without evidence of things like pipe wrenches. What I don't see mentioned here... The use of a 'substantial', air-driven impact wrench is a necessity. I don't know of any way to 'muscle' them out, without breaking a few. The last block that I did, a 59-type, had all the studs REALLY stuck (& rusty). It probably took me the better part of an hour & half to get all 48 out, one broken, and 47 totally re-usable - using this tool & a big impact.

06-29-2012, 09:34 PM	#1
Smitty Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Boston North Shore Posts: 752	Head Stud Removel Anyone have any tips/ tricks for removal of cylinder head studs from a 59A block without breaking them? Also valve guides. Thanks, Steve

07-01-2012, 06:41 PM	#7
oldford2 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: pittsfield, MA Posts: 2,086	Re: Head Stud Removel {"In-any-event, the tool grips very well, and it doesn't leave any noticable mark on the studs, so they can be re-used without evidence of things like pipe wrenches"] If you are doing a first class rebuild, don't use old studs. JMO John

07-02-2012, 09:34 AM	#8
37fordpickup Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Greeneville, TN Posts: 127	Re: Head Stud Removel I agree with John. I spent the money and installed new studs and nuts. Damn they look good. Now I have a bucket full of used studs from my 21 stud and 24 stud motors.

07-02-2012, 09:41 AM	#9
Capn John Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: BIRTHPLACE OF SPEED, FLORIDA Posts: 531	Re: Head Stud Removel Lotsa PB Blaster, time, more PB, time, whack it on the top with a small sledge, PB, time, etc. Instead of PB you may use a combo of ATF and acetone. The acetone dissipates fairly quickly while the automatic transmission fluid soaks in. Use the same pattern as above. TIME aka patience!! The manufactured stud pullers work great.