The Ford Barn

Rex_A_Lott · 11-01-2014, 07:47 PM

Well, now you know.

I'd spend some time finding out where the locals recommend getting a motor rebuilt. Forget the fact that it was rebuilt in the 70's. You might as well say "It was sold new".
You might as well leave it where its at, so you dont keep tripping over it, until the day you pull it out and put it in the back of the truck to haul it to the machine shop. The guy doing the rebuild would probably rather have it intact than a pile of parts. It takes up less room that way too.
Good Luck.

1930artdeco · 11-01-2014, 07:59 PM

Ok now that you know what is in the motor itself you may want to think about a few things.

1) How do you/dad plan to drive her? A coupe is fairly light which is good.
2) Are you going to tour much with her? Now may be a good time to add some modifications.
3) IF you modify how much are you going to do and with what budget?
4) You three biggest bangs are probably in order are: A high comp head, a Mitchell O/D and a beefier cam.

Or you can just keep her stock and she will do just fine.

Mike

tbirdtbird · 11-01-2014, 09:02 PM

what a shame. Behind the valve cover will be worse.
For those who would like to know, if a situation arises where you have to store an engine for a long period of time, here is a procedure to follow:

1. Get a can of marine engine fogging oil.
2. Start engine.
3. Spray fogging oil liberally into carb while running at a fast idle, keep spraying it in there until the engine dies. Be ready for lots of blue smoke out the pipe. (ie do this outside)
4. pull plugs and pour in another ounce of any kind of oil and crank engine over a few times. Put plugs back in
5. disconnect battery and drain coolant so that none inadvertantly leaks into cylinders
6. seal off carb throat
7. seal off exhaust pipe
8. if this is for more than a yr or 2 then remove valve cover and spray everything inside with the stickiest most adherent oil you can find, like maybe raw STP. Be sure to coat the walls and roof of the valve chamber
9. Turn engine over 2 revolutions per yr or more.

Tom Wesenberg · 11-01-2014, 11:15 PM

I agree with tbird. When you get the valve cover off check all 8 valve springs plus the upper and lower springs for the oil pump. If any have rust pits they should be replaced.

I would take the engine apart and hone the cylinders and clean up any other rust in the engine. Hopefully the babbit is good, but if not, then you'll need to send it out for another babbit job, or let them do the entire rebuild if you don't do your own mechanic work.

11-01-2014, 07:47 PM	#21
Rex_A_Lott Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Upstate South Carolina Posts: 794	Re: Looking for help Well, now you know. I'd spend some time finding out where the locals recommend getting a motor rebuilt. Forget the fact that it was rebuilt in the 70's. You might as well say "It was sold new". You might as well leave it where its at, so you dont keep tripping over it, until the day you pull it out and put it in the back of the truck to haul it to the machine shop. The guy doing the rebuild would probably rather have it intact than a pile of parts. It takes up less room that way too. Good Luck.

11-01-2014, 07:59 PM	#22
1930artdeco Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lynden, Wa Posts: 3,552	Re: Looking for help Ok now that you know what is in the motor itself you may want to think about a few things. 1) How do you/dad plan to drive her? A coupe is fairly light which is good. 2) Are you going to tour much with her? Now may be a good time to add some modifications. 3) IF you modify how much are you going to do and with what budget? 4) You three biggest bangs are probably in order are: A high comp head, a Mitchell O/D and a beefier cam. Or you can just keep her stock and she will do just fine. Mike __________________ 1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan

11-01-2014, 09:02 PM	#23
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: Looking for help what a shame. Behind the valve cover will be worse. For those who would like to know, if a situation arises where you have to store an engine for a long period of time, here is a procedure to follow: 1. Get a can of marine engine fogging oil. 2. Start engine. 3. Spray fogging oil liberally into carb while running at a fast idle, keep spraying it in there until the engine dies. Be ready for lots of blue smoke out the pipe. (ie do this outside) 4. pull plugs and pour in another ounce of any kind of oil and crank engine over a few times. Put plugs back in 5. disconnect battery and drain coolant so that none inadvertantly leaks into cylinders 6. seal off carb throat 7. seal off exhaust pipe 8. if this is for more than a yr or 2 then remove valve cover and spray everything inside with the stickiest most adherent oil you can find, like maybe raw STP. Be sure to coat the walls and roof of the valve chamber 9. Turn engine over 2 revolutions per yr or more. __________________ '31 180A Last edited by tbirdtbird; 11-02-2014 at 09:51 AM.

11-01-2014, 11:15 PM	#24
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Looking for help I agree with tbird. When you get the valve cover off check all 8 valve springs plus the upper and lower springs for the oil pump. If any have rust pits they should be replaced. I would take the engine apart and hone the cylinders and clean up any other rust in the engine. Hopefully the babbit is good, but if not, then you'll need to send it out for another babbit job, or let them do the entire rebuild if you don't do your own mechanic work.