leaf spring color

[Steve in Denver]

What color are the leaf springs? Black, yes, but flat black paint, gloss? Or Black Oxide?
And if Black Oxide how does one redo them? Caswell has a great black oxide coating, but one would have to make a huge tank to do that many springs one at a time.

[Kube]

Steve, I have the individual leaf's powder finished in what the place calls "box black".
Not flat and a tad less than a satin. Closer to a satin. make sense?

[Pete]

If it is not for judging, I iron Parkerize them. Beside preventing rust, it reduces friction between the leaves. The color is satin black.

[DavidG]

Mike,


With respect, the NOS '32-'36 springs that I've had tended to have a gloss black finish or something between satin and gloss.

[Steve in Denver]

I was planning on desassembling them and having the springs blasted. I know there is padding that can go in between each leaf. Is that what Henry did? Seems like that would raise the car quite a bit.

[Kube]

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Originally Posted by DavidG

Mike,


With respect, the NOS '32-'36 springs that I've had tended to have a gloss black finish or something between satin and gloss.

David, I know (well, I hope) that you know you have my full respect. Your knowledge makes me feel ignorant more often than not.
From my experience, mostly '39 - '40, the NOS springs were always satin or a bit less.
I'd installed NOS springs in my '36 roadster three years ago and they too were more satin than gloss.
Is it possible we interpret the level of sheen differently?

[Steve in Denver]

Satin or Gloss, what keeps them from wearing the paint off and squeaking?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Steve in Denver

Satin or Gloss, what keeps them from wearing the paint off and squeaking?

Lubrication between the leaves.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Steve in Denver

I was planning on desassembling them and having the springs blasted. I know there is padding that can go in between each leaf. Is that what Henry did? Seems like that would raise the car quite a bit.

As you suggest, it does add quite a bit of thickness in totality. You may even find it necessary to modify the bars or source different ones.
Henry did NOT do this.

[Steve in Denver]

I know there was a grease zerk, so, no I won't add the spacer things.
Next question, how does one get those keeper things off and back on? Or are there new rivets available/

[DavidG]

If you mean the rivets on the two clamps on the leaves, Thirdgenauto.com offers a faux rivet that does the job.


Mike,


"tended to", i.e. not in every case.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by DavidG

If you mean the rivets on the two clamps on the leaves, Thirdgenauto.com offers a faux rivet that does the job.


Mike,


"tended to", i.e. not in every case.

The fake rivets that Driskell (ThirdGen) are wonderful. I highly recommend you follow Dave's suggestion and get them.

[DavidG]

And they are just the ticket for riveting together '32-'34 shock links as they were originally.

[Steve in Denver]

Thanks everyone for your input. I will let you know how the project progresses, but it may be a while.

[51woodie]

Somewhere, I read, heard, or was told, that springs should not be sandblasted. Is that just an old significant other’s tale, or is there some merit to that claim?l

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 51woodie

Somewhere, I read, heard, or was told, that springs should not be sandblasted. Is that just an old significant other’s tale, or is there some merit to that claim?l

Hmmm... I am attempting to think of a reason this would be an issue.


The heat generated by blasting would not be significant to alter the steel. Pitting? Gosh, unless a guy was using small rocks, I can't see how that would be an issue either.
I have had my individual leaf's glass beaded in the past.


I can understand why a person should not blast a spring assembly.

[Steve in Denver]

Thanks Kube. Unless they are severally rusted, light blasting should clean them up.