Replacing the wires on a 6 volt 41'

[Ken T]

I need to replace the wires under the hood and dash. I'm a rookie with 6 volt. I've read and been told that it requires larger gauge wires. I believe that the attached wire diagram is for a 41' truck. Would it hurt it to go with larger wires or does it even matter? I have a new battery. I'm just trying to get it to turn over right now, as there's zero power to anything when hooked up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

wiring.jpg IMG_8776.jpg

IMG_8777.jpg IMG_8778.jpg

IMG_8771.jpg

[corvette8n]

I got my ‘41 coupe wiring harness from C&G, it’s well marked with tags on the wires, I hope to install it in the spring when I get my car out of storage.

https://cgfordparts.com/

[51504bat]

On 6 volt systems size does matter as do good grounds. If it were me I'd rip out all the wiring and start from scratch. Rebel Wiring makes a universal 6 volt harness and they can probably add extra wire to accommodate the added length of your truck. I've used 2 of their universal 12 volt kits and they are USA made PLUS their tech support is top notch. JMO
Rebel Wire (parts123.com)

[aussie merc]

yes 6V requires larger wire sizes theres a hole lot of science involved so to keep it simple its worked out in wattage so if you halve the volts you double the amps , A comercial harness will already have taken this into account [make sure they under stand its for 6 Volt and is marked so ] or if you diy ensure the wire capacity is double what you need as
these days most wire rolls are calibrated for 12V same goes for the connectors [terminals ]

[Bob C]

Sacramento Vintage Ford shows a cowl harness for a pickup, I would
think they would be the same a a big truck. They make their own harness, give them a call.
https://www.vintageford.com/part_sea...44-4&Category=

[petehoovie]

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[QUOTE=Ken T;2283489]I need to replace the wires under the hood and dash. I'm a rookie with 6 volt. I've read and been told that it requires larger gauge wires. I believe that the attached wire diagram is for a 41' truck. Would it hurt it to go with larger wires or does it even matter? I have a new battery. I'm just trying to get it to turn over right now, as there's zero power to anything when hooked up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[aussie merc]

Yikes that looks like a BBQ in the making

[Ken/Alabama]

This is the guy you want to get new wiring harness from.

[Ken T]

Is this the turn signal switch??? IMG_8322 (1).jpg

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Ken T

Is this the turn signal switch??? Attachment 534199

Ignition Switch

[Ken T]

Oh, I see. OK thank you. There's a few buttons and switches that I don't believe or know if they are original, or are connected to the back part of the truck that isn't a conventional truck. The oldest vehicle I've had fun with is a 68' F250. I'm learning.

[1942deluxe]

Ken, that should be the toggle for the ignition switch.

[Lanny]

Your Left Arm is your turn signal switch.





.

[Ken T]

Originally Posted by 1942deluxe

Ken, that should be the toggle for the ignition switch.

Thank you everyone for helping. I hope it's just that the key was lost to cause them to put a push button switch on the dash to start it. Hopefully I can replace the key cylinder and rest still works if it's rewired. That would be cool!

It started out in possession of the military and as I understand it, the fire department bought it at an auction when the military dumped it. The fire dept only used it as a parade vehicle once a year. It appears to be almost entirely original. I think the muffler is even original. The odometer has less than 5k miles on it. Having been in the desert for 50 years has help prevent rusting. It hasn't been kind to the non-metal parts though.

[Ken T]

Originally Posted by Lanny

Your Left Arm is your turn signal switch.





.

Ha!

[51woodie]

Ken T. Being as this is a fire truck/engine, the wiring will be different than that for cars and regular trucks. Some things I noted on the electrical schematic you posted, is that it shows Neg. ground, and no senders/wiring for the oil and temp gauges, As it was a firetruck/engine, there may not have been a key lock for the ignition, as you wouldn't want to be searching for an ignition key that someone put in their pocket, while your neighbors house is on fire. That may be the reason there is only a toggle switch, although someone may have put a key switch in at some time. The start button is standard for the era, it connects the small terminal on the starter solenoid to ground, which activates the solenoid.

[tubman]

I can't see from the pictures, but is there even a place for a key? I had a '48 Seagrave pumper and it didn't have a key. Just two push-pull switches for the dual ignition and a foot starter.

[Bob C]

Here is the wiring diagram from Van Pelt's site.

[JayChicago]

Originally Posted by tubman

I can't see from the pictures, but is there even a place for a key? I had a '48 Seagrave pumper and it didn't have a key. Just two push-pull switches for the dual ignition and a foot starter.

Seems logical that this type of vehicle would not have a key. Could be a big problem in time of emergency if some goof in the fire house had removed the key.

Don't think they worried about a fire engine being stolen. Today, they might actually have to worry about that!

[ford38v8]

Could[QUOTE[[/I]=JayChicago;2283662]Seems logical that this type of vehicle would not have a key. Could be a big problem in time of emergency if some goof in the fire house had removed the key.

Don't think they worried about a fire engine being stolen. Today, they might actually have to worry about that![/QUOTE]

Remember the Brand X ignition switch that had three positions, on/off/lock, you didn’t need a key in the off position, but you could turn it to lock without a key. I did that once with my ‘55, and didn’t have the key with me. I totally lucked out and found someone nearby with a ‘56 that had the same identical key cut to open my ignition lock.