Throttle Rod

[Lenny Bruce]

Hello all! Question I have is the throttle rod that comes off the steering column is not working correctly. It is pin straight weather it should be or not. It has fallen off a few times. Their is a lot of free play in it before it moves the accelerator. I tried to bend it a bit to adjust it but the Rod seems too short to me. Were their different lengths for different years and models? Mine is ‘30 Tudor. Can’t seem to get it adjusted seems to short. I’m wondering if this is part of the reason the car won’t idle? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[nkaminar]

Hi Lenny, Before changing the rod from the steering column, look at the rod that goes to the carburetor. That may be too long which would cause the free play in the rod for the steering column control. Also look at the entire foot throttle mechanism. Take the floor boards out to see if that makes a difference. A lot of the foot throttle mechanisms get bent when people take the engine out without first removing the foot throttle mechanism.

You can buy a rod extension, see link below. You will have to cut the rod and may have to shorten one end.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9546&cat=41663

[Gary WA]

Not clear on your question of parts you have a question about, could you post photo of part in question?

[rotorwrench]

The throttle bell crank has a pretty good tension on it. If the two support journals are well oiled then it works better but I have a tendency to set it where I want it with my foot and then draw the throttle lever on the column down to meet it and hold it where I want. The little arm that works off the throttle lever control is so short that it doesn't have a lot of leverage to push against the spring tension. It will move some with good linkages but may be problematic if the little ball ends where the control rod connects are worn.

[Lenny Bruce]

Thanks fella’s. Got that taken care of but now I have other issues. She wants to over heat and won’t idle. Only run with my foot on the accelerator. Also she will backfire when I shut it down or rev it up and let off. Getting a bit overwhelmed

[nkaminar]

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Where are you located?

[Lenny Bruce]

Potsdam NY

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Hi Lenny, Before changing the rod from the steering column, look at the rod that goes to the carburetor. That may be too long which would cause the free play in the rod for the steering column control. Also look at the entire foot throttle mechanism. Take the floor boards out to see if that makes a difference. A lot of the foot throttle mechanisms get bent when people take the engine out without first removing the foot throttle mechanism.

You can buy a rod extension, see link below. You will have to cut the rod and may have to shorten one end.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9546&cat=41663

Some of those would be VERY handy setting up the rods on our cars. Rods anywhere near the right length are not available so we have to cut and weld till we get it right. That applies to both spark timing and throttle. Since we can't get anything from a US supplier any more, I'll make a few. Who knows, I might have a cottage business here.

[GRutter]

Please don't start cutting your rods. It shouldn't be necessary and you would be compensating for the real problem.
The throttle linkage is a fairly straightforward mechanism. As previously suggested, remove the floorboards and observe how it works and where the excessive play is.
I didn't understand from your original post what was "falling off" and from where. Perhaps add a picture to help clarify

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by GRutter

Please don't start cutting your rods. It shouldn't be necessary and you would be compensating for the real problem.
The throttle linkage is a fairly straightforward mechanism. As previously suggested, remove the floorboards and observe how it works and where the excessive play is.
I didn't understand from your original post what was "falling off" and from where. Perhaps add a picture to help clarify

If the balls on the levers and the sockets on the rods are worn, the rods can become detached. I have no problem accepting the OPs statement.

[lrf]

It sounds like your idle jet in the carb is plugged so she won't idle. You may have the carb gas float too low so she backfires cuz she's running lean. Also, a gasket leak at the carb and intake manifold will make her backfire when turned off. I've experienced all three in my wonderful 50 years of driving "Henry's Lady". Drive Your "A"!

[Lenny Bruce]

Thanks guys I’m plugging away

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Some of those would be VERY handy setting up the rods on our cars. Rods anywhere near the right length are not available so we have to cut and weld till we get it right. That applies to both spark timing and throttle. Since we can't get anything from a US supplier any more, I'll make a few. Who knows, I might have a cottage business here.

I made an adjustable throttle rod for my Town Sedan. I just tapped some thick wall S/S tubibg and cut and threaded a stock rod. Works great and is not as fugly as the one the vendors sell (cheaper too!)

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

If you disconnect the throttle at the car, will it idle then? Have you adjusted the the idle stop screw?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I made an adjustable throttle rod for my Town Sedan. I just tapped some thick wall S/S tubibg and cut and threaded a stock rod. Works great and is not as fugly as the one the vendors sell (cheaper too!)

Nice!