Wishbone removal

[Topher5150]

So I got the front axle off the 47, and I've been trying to get the wishbone off of the axle. I thought I could grind off the nut and bop it out but I didn't realize that it was recessed. Can I grind down the lip to get the rest of the nut out?
I haven't touched the other not yet, and I don't have a torch, I'm thinking I'll have to marinade it in kroil for the rest of the summer.

[RalphM]

I have done this by taking a small drill bit and drilling down the side of the perch bolt. Do this in two or three places and the nut will come out. I have saved perch bolts by doing it this way.

An air hammer does wonders with stuck perch bolts.

[JSeery]

Both the bolt and the nut are cone shaped where they attach to the wishbone with the cone going down into the wishbone. Don't think you can grind that shape out very easily.

[Topher5150]

I'm not to worried about saving the perch bolts. Do you know what size thread is on the perch bolt

[Krylon32]

Should be 5/8th fine?

[RalphM]

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To clarify, I drilled only the nut. You can feel when it gets to the wishbone.

[JSeery]

Might try drilling a smaller diameter hole down into the perch bolt a little ways past the bottom of the nut and then drill out the nut to the bolt diameter. Get the nut off and then punch the perch bolt out.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Topher5150

So I got the front axle off the 47, and I've been trying to get the wishbone off of the axle. I thought I could grind off the nut and bop it out but I didn't realize that it was recessed. Can I grind down the lip to get the rest of the nut out?
I haven't touched the other not yet, and I don't have a torch, I'm thinking I'll have to marinade it in kroil for the rest of the summer.

Depending on how well the taper is holding the bolt in the axle, you may be in for a real test of perseverance.
I would suggest you drill out the bolt as far down as you can, leaving perhaps 1/8" on the outer bolt diameter to have a surface with which you can press upon.


Even doing as I'd suggested, you may find it (still) requires a lot of effort.
Soaking may help albeit very minimally.

[rich b]

Yep, sometimes you end up drilling them out similar to this pair of stubborn perch bolts.

[V12Bill]

I have removed the nuts and placed the entire axle and wishbone in a press. The perch bolts are in there good and tight and have needed close to 20 tons of pressure to break loose. Also once saw the bolts removed with a sledge hammer at a junk yard. Took a few swings to break loose.

[19Fordy]

Also, try using an impact wrench. Heating it with a torch
sure would help a lot. Can you take it to someone who owns a torch?

[Mart]

I made a puller that worked really well, along the lines of one posted on here previously. Of course I had removed the nut first.

Mart.

[Ritzy1]

I saw a recommendation for using a press, and using that method all I ended up doing was destroying the threads on the bolt and bending the wishbone (100T AMTRAK press).

Another search on the HAMB turned up a method using a cheap Harbor Freight air hammer and blunt chisel bit. I flipped the axle and wishbone upside down on 3 jack stands after soaking the perches in penetrant. I heated up the wishbone around the perch pin until it was red hot and started leaning on that perch bolt with the pneumatic hammer. It started moving almost immediately. Out it came. Easy. Figured the next one would come out just as easy, but it wouldn't. After some head scratching, I looked at the one that came out and saw that the corrosion was in the area where the taper was. I then focused the heat on the tapered end of the wishbone and started in with the hammer again. It started moving right away and out it came.

This is the process I'd recommend. You may be shocked at how easy it is and you won't destroy the original pins.

[RalphM]

I've done this many times with an air hammer, IMO the best way to go.

[1930ModelA]

Just a note of warning that was addressed by me and others on the Hamb back in June of 2013. www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/check-your-nuts-boys-and-girls-early-ford-wishbone-fastener-tech.801978/
It had become apparent at that time that the front spring perch nuts being sold by vendors had incorrect bevels which are critical to the proper seating and securing of the wishbones/front suspension. The repop nuts had a 45degree bevel, while early Ford wishbones and nuts are manufactured with 60 degrees of bevel.
Dick Spadaro was going to starting working with vendors trying to correct this situation, Dick of course is gone now and I am unsure how successful he was in getting this corrected. The situation may still be going on. However, as noted in the original thread, Bratton's Antique Auto, did at the time, have the correct OEM beveled nuts. Part # 4300. They were having them manufactured specifically for them right here in the USA! I would assume they still do. Hope this reminder helps all who are working on their front suspension.

[Topher5150]

So I got one nut off. If anybody in the area can help a fella out....I got beer