Reproduction Universal Joint

[KGBnut]

I pulled out my universal this weekend. It is totally worn out. (I will post pictures when I have more time.) Mine was the riveted type that cannot be rebuilt.

Whenever possible I try to use original parts, but I'm having trouble locating an original. I'm going to call over to Bert's on Tuesday, but if he doesn't have one I may need to resort to a repop.

So, here is my question: Does anyone have any experience with the current repops that are available from the better suppliers. I've seen a bunch of post where people recommend using an original, but I haven't located anyone that actually used a reproduction and can tell me how well it fit and functioned.

Can anyone tell me about their experience?

Thanks in advance,

Ken

[SteveB31]

No new ones are currently being made to my knowledge at this time. Good originals are not too hard to find.

Steve @Bert's

[Ron in Quincy]

In past years, when going to swap meets, I was lucky enough to pick up 2 new Spicer u-joints; both have been used by me, one in my 30 Coupe and the other in my 29 Roadster.

I recommend you try to locate a Spicer u-joint, they can be rebuilt if worn, most I have seen are in rather good condition.

Ron

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with Steve that good originals aren't too hard to find.
I've passed some up at swap meets because I didn't need them.
Be sure to pack the housing full of grease after installing the new one.
Don't forget the 2 gaskets, or worse yet, the metal bell over the U-joint.
BTW, here's a joint that the owner thought never needed to be greased.

[Mike V. Florida]

In all honesty, how many years was yours in the car? Do you know what maintenance was done to it in all the years it was in there? The riveted kind can and does last for many years.

This is not to say that an original should not be searched out, but are the rebuild kits that are available any better or worse that the entire assembly?

[RonC]

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[Ed Saniewski]

RonC, if this new U joint is made with sealed roller bearings, dose this mean that you don't have to pack the area around the u joint with grease?

[KGBnut]

Originally Posted by Ron in Quincy

I recommend you try to locate a Spicer u-joint, they can be rebuilt if worn, most I have seen are in rather good condition

So, it a "spicer u-joint" a specific manufacturer, or a style? As I said, I have the riveted type, which I know cannot be rebuilt. Are the non-riveted ones referred to as "spicers?"

...so much to learn. I just love the education that I get from these machines.

Ken

[john in illinois]

The Lincoln type needle bearing u joint has a much higher failure rate than the standard type. This has been discussed on early V8 Fordbarn.

John

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by KGBnut

So, it a "spicer u-joint" a specific manufacturer, or a style? As I said, I have the riveted type, which I know cannot be rebuilt. Are the non-riveted ones referred to as "spicers?"

...so much to learn. I just love the education that I get from these machines.

Ken

Spicer is a brand name

[RonC]

Originally Posted by Ed Saniewski

RonC, if this new U joint is made with sealed roller bearings, dose this mean that you don't have to pack the area around the u joint with grease?

Ed, I have no personal experience with this joint. One type of original joint is rebuildable with kits available from the suppliers. Original NOS joints are also plentiful as they were used up to 1948 in fords.

[Benson]

As I remember there was a discussion on Old Ford Barn about a repro U joint that fits the Lincoln (as this one is described as fitting both) being too large on the outside dimension and it hits the inside of the Model A housing.

They might have fixed this problem but I would want to know before going to all the trouble to install and then find the problem ...

[KGBnut]

I've researched the history of the Model A a little bit, but I'm still a bit unclear on one thing, and it is relevant to this discussion:

Did ALL Model As come out of the factory with the riveted type, and some got later modified to the other type?

OR

Was there a production change whereas they used the riveted type during certain years and the other type during other years.

[cjkohnast]

Ken Happy to send picture I have trouble doing it on ford barn. Send me your E mail address and Il get it out to you. Where are you in connecticut my daughter lives in new fairfield ?

[ursus]

There was a production change to the newer U-joint at some point during the Model A era but you'd have to check the Ford Service Notices for the date. The newer type is rebuildable and a kit containing new bushings, snap rings, and carrier shaft was made available. The newer U-joint was used in all Ford cars and light trucks through 1948.

The older riveted was not rebuildable but it was fairly durable and many are still in use today.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I've owned a "KAZILLION" Old Fords & NEVER "greased" the "U" Joint!! In fact, I just forgot about it even BEING THERE--LOL---NEVER had one BREAK or WEAR OUT! Like, "OUT OF SIGHT, OUT OF MIND"
Bill Noworry

[J Franklin]

The original system used lube from the rear of the transmission to keep it working when forgotten. I am using a modern style as replacement.

[Art Newland]

Just post and ad in the swap section, I picked up a NOS u-joint for the same price as a repro. Had several offers to sell me one.

[KGBnut]

First of all, I want to thank everybody for your insight. Based on your recommendations I decided to hunt down an original. I was fortunate enough to find a good, used riveted-style only two miles from my home. It will get installed this weekend.

I especially want to thank cjkohnast who was kind enough to send me pictures of one he had for sale. If he lived a little closer, I would have bought it. If anyone else is looking for a good one, I would recommend that you contact him.

Now, if I could only locate a local supplier for Corn Head Grease.... I live too far from corn country.

Ken

[Art Newland]

Amazon has it.

[KGBnut]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

Amazon has it.

I saw that, but by the time you get it delivered it is about $20.00 a tube. I'm looking into some more reasonable on-line options.

Thanks just the same.

[wmws]

Your local John Deere dealer would have it or could order it for you.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by KGBnut

I saw that, but by the time you get it delivered it is about $20.00 a tube. I'm looking into some more reasonable on-line options.

Thanks just the same.

Originally Posted by wmws

Your local John Deere dealer would have it or could order it for you.

http://www.machinefinder.com/ww/en-U...rs/connecticut

[KGBnut]

Thanks Mike. That's really helpful.

Ken