12-08-2020, 03:14 AM | #21 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 8,755
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Re: Headbolt
Quote:
I might try it that way next time. Mart. |
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12-08-2020, 10:19 AM | #22 |
Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Re: Headbolt
When a bolt or nut is tight and you check the torque with a wrench it takes a load above it's current torque value to move it. If it moves that would indicate it was well below the desired torque value. By loosing the fastener first you eliminate the initial break free torque issue. This is a lot less of an issue with new threads and new bolts/studs/nuts with everything clean, as an engine built at the factory (I have no idea if they retorque head bolts/nuts). But a rebuild becomes a different issue and it is more difficult to get the torques to the correct values in one operation. Over the years three heat cycles have been found to be a good practice.
Last edited by JSeery; 12-08-2020 at 10:27 AM. |
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12-08-2020, 10:47 AM | #23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,860
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Re: Headbolt
I'm not sure what the factory specs are for head bolts? But I do know it's higher than the 45 lbs we now use. Not sure where this came from, but it's part of the learning curve when running these engines in competition. there are allot of things we do to these engines that the Factory might fron on. Like the seals on the intake guides. I've never used them because there was a better wat. i just put a little sealent on the lower part of the guide and install it, and the guide is sealed forever, and easier to remove for the next guy. Most modern engines use much of this stuff instead of gaskets. All things go thru an evolution. Another NEW thing, paint the Aluminum head with some Latex paint and it will not eroad. Never tried it but will next time I installan alu head. can't hurt, might work??
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12-08-2020, 02:37 PM | #24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wa.
Posts: 5,409
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Re: Headbolt
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