This can't be good?

[36tudordeluxe]

Drained the radiator a couple of weeks ago and refilled with new coolant today and am now leaking fluid out of left side header flange. In my 221 had a erosion problem with the heads and was concerned may have happened in my 276 but when I removed thermostat housing and ran scope into head didn't see an an accumulation of crud as I did on the the 221. The engine never leaked water previously. Could head be leaking into one of my exhaust seats?

[petehoovie]

Header mounting bolt too long and went through the jacket when tightened down....

[36tudordeluxe]

Used recommended header bolt kit installed many years ago with no problem.

[36tudordeluxe]

Just checked dripping seems to have slowed down still have plenty of water in upper tank of radiator.

[alanwoodieman]

as a test. remove the bolt in the offending area and see if it leaks worse. I have seen several of these bolts pushed thru the block into the water passage and for some reason most are the ones above the starter

[36tudordeluxe]

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Originally Posted by alanwoodieman

as a test. remove the bolt in the offending area and see if it leaks worse. I have seen several of these bolts pushed thru the block into the water passage and for some reason most are the ones above the starter

Great idea, noticed already the bolt you describe was real loose, am wondering if loosening further wii make any difference? Will try anyway, maybe tightening it will stop it. Perhaps drawing completely and putting gob of JN weld on end of bolt and reinstalling.

[Tinker]

Don't put jd weld on it, you'll never ever get it out... EVER. Some high heat RTV would be fine.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Don't put jd weld on it, you'll never ever get it out... EVER. Some high heat RTV would be fine.

Much better idea!

[Tinker]

You might be okay with some "never seize". Which I would do anyways on exhaust bolts. Hope it stops the leak for ya.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by Tinker

You might be okay with some "never seize". Which I would do anyways on exhaust bolts. Hope it stops the leak for ya.

Do you mean to use in place of RTV?

[Tinker]

Either might work,and I only say might because this a internet analysis. Anti-seize helps to remove bolts later and due to the fact it's a liquid it will fill micro gaps. Anti-seize will fill little voids also and will allow you to remove bolts later. Maybe best of both worlds. Worth a shot. I would use anti-sieze first over RTV.

[alanwoodieman]

I used permatex , number 2, I believe, the one that hardens and it seems to have worked.

[bill3337]

Blue loctite works really well for sealing leaks and you can still get the bolt out.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by bill3337

Blue loctite works really well for sealing leaks and you can still get the bolt out.

I like loctite, but it's purpose is to lock a bolt up, like a flywheel. Over time an exhaust bolt never needs help to be difficult to remove. Just me 2cents

If you want an old school fix get some indianhead permatex, autozone carrys it or did.

anti-seize covers both issues, maybe





.

[expavr]

Originally Posted by Tinker

You might be okay with some "never seize". Which I would do anyways on exhaust bolts. Hope it stops the leak for ya.

I agree. I had a leak around the threads on the radiator drain peacock and used “never seize” which stopped the leak.

[36tudordeluxe]

I see 3 different grades of NEVER SEIZE, regular grade, pure nickel and mariner's choice. Make any difference which one I use?

[flatheadmurre]

Since you don´t have anything else then iron involved it shouldn´t matter, the other is for copperfree aplications and marine use with washout issues.

[expavr]

I used the grade that came in a white can with red label. The product is gray in color sort of like plumber’s putty but more viscous. Both the male and female threads should be clean and dry for best results. It did a good job of sealing off the wallowed out threads in the bung on the radiator.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

Since you don´t have anything else then iron involved it shouldn´t matter, the other is for copperfree aplications and marine use with washout issues.

The header bolts are stainless steel, should I get rid of them and use regular bolts?

[woodiewagon46]

I would keep the stainless steel bolts. Don't use J-B Weld as others have cautioned, although with the heat of the exhaust, the J-B would probably fail eventually. I have had good luck with Loctite, 569 Thread Sealant.