Tech: Frame Repair

[Mr 42]

I think owners of 33-48 frames may be interested in how i fixed my 33 Frame.

Where the X member meets the outer frame, it collects a lot of dirt and moist= instant rust.
First I added some steel bars to keep the frame square when repairing it. This is the outside

Inside.


Cut out the bad part on the outside, first.

Rust!

I used a bit of paper as a pattern, for the inner part.

I used two pieces of angle iron, to bend the 3mm steel
used to fix the frame.

Small problem here.

A bit of acetylene heat and a big hammer helped.

Much better.

Inside ready, when you weld on a frame one thing is important.
And that it's penetration.

Then it was time for the outer part. Made an 90 degree angle piece, to start with.

Just had to bend the part to fit on the lower part of the frame.


Then a flat piece was fitted inside,

I had made a paper pattern earlier, showing where the original holes in the frame are.
and i made holes in the new bit.

Then I fitted the part on the frame, and left around a 3mm gap to get a good weld.

I primed the parts but left a bit clean where the two parts meets,
since they will be riveted together later.

Everything welded up.

Before and after, now ready for many more miles on the roads.

[Gordon Ellis]

This is a great piece. This is the kind of helpful info that this site is about. Thanks Mr 42 for all the time you took to share this with us.

[Roger/Sacramento]

Lars....you are back. Nice work as always.

[Dennis/Arkansas]

A SUPERB post, thank you! Dennis/Arkansas

[Kojack]

Great work. You have good welding skills. Wonderful pictures thank you for all of us Barners.

[Master of none]

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Nice patch good work!

[Big Shark]

Can anyone share pics or ideas on rear inner fender repair? This thread was great! Thanks Bruce

[39coupe]

Excellent tech with nice, clear pictures. Well thought out too. Thanks for a very useful post. Mike

[George G]

Thanks for the tech.

[Displayman]

Great post. Clear and precise with good pics!
Thanks,
Bob- Hampshire, Ilinois

[chopnchaneled]

Originally Posted by Displayman

Great post. Clear and precise with good pics!
Thanks,
Bob- Hampshire, Ilinois

"Ditto"

[34pickup]

Excellent article, photos and work done.I wish my frame were that good. Take a look at what was underneath my truck in the photo.I am going to opt for another frame altogether.

[Brootal]

Just curious as to why you left the metal unprimered where it was going to riveted? Wouldn't that leave it susceptible to rusting again between the two pieces of metal?

Great job on the repair though and apologies if it's a stupid 'newbie' question.

[01aford]

Very Nice Job.!!!
They can't do that in China.
Great Job

[Russ/40]

Hey! Welcome back Lars! Been a long time since we have heard from you. Great contribution to the guys here. Those of us who have been around a while know of your workmanship. What stage is the '34 in now? Still driving it?

[gerrald meacham]

great work , you are blessed with talent

[Mr 42]

If i had left primer between the parts, the rivet would probably work itself loose during driving.

I painted the parts after the rivet was mounted, to revent rust to creep in.


And thank for all the nice comments :-)

[Mr 42]

Thanks im glad to be back,
Dont tell anyone but i did not like the old Fordbarn format´very much.

The 34 is a 33 standard Roadster and im trying to drive the wheels of it, and doing small repairs during the Swedish wintertime.

This winter i "restored" the dash, and made a new top, mayb i can write tech thread on that :-)

[55 dude]

great tech!

[Ray Parson]

been there dun that so many times nice work have you ever used a copper back up when reparing holes

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Mr 42

Thanks im glad to be back,
Dont tell anyone but i did not like the old Fordbarn format´very much.

The 34 is a 33 standard Roadster and im trying to drive the wheels of it, and doing small repairs during the Swedish wintertime.

This winter i "restored" the dash, and made a new top, mayb i can write tech thread on that :-)

__________________________________________________ ____________

Very good post Mr 42/Lars! These are the kind of posts I really enjoy. Would be nice if Ryan could save this one for a future Tech File page. JM

[Sid the Maineiac]

Remember for those less talented, Precision Coach Works makes those frame repair
pieces. They are located in Billerica,Mass. My compliments to Lars for outstanding job.!

[ctkid343w]

Great info. You may have convinced me to repair rather than replace my 34 ford frame. My driver side frame rail is thin from sitting in horse manure for ten to fifteen years. I also have a spot rusted through in the same place as yours.

Thanks

[63tango]

Wow nice job. My 34 frame has that issue. It was repaired at one time but not as nice as yours. It makes me want to re do it.

[Bruce/CT]

Lars, Great Job!
Any thoughts on putting square holes in the frame? I think they are for the Runningboards bolts. I'm stumped on this one.
Thanks,
Bruce/CT

[Flop]

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bruce i would go with a small file or carbide burr on a pneumatic die grinder !

[mfagan]

Great job, thanks for sharing!

[Mart]

Square holes?

You're not doing hundreds of them - just drill a round hole and file it square. There doesn't have to be a power tool for everything you know.

Mart.

[OLDTGUY]

Thanks for the info, great thread!
JJ

[B-O-B]

Good info. Now if I just had a frame!!

[FL&WVMIKE]

On the Model "A" FORUM, there have been some of the same type of articles, from another Metal Magician, called FLOP.
FLOP has been out of commission for a while, but his threads are still there.
Check them out.
MIKE

[hotrodA]

Lars!!

One of the great builders/fabricators on this forum. Your previous posts are treasures;
glad to see more. Keep them coming.

[FlatheadTed]

Nice job Lars ,

Originally Posted by Bruce/CT

Lars, Great Job!
Any thoughts on putting square holes in the frame? I think they are for the Runningboards bolts. I'm stumped on this one.
Thanks,
Bruce/CT