292 teapot starting issues

[TedEaton]

Let me add that the Teapot 4V carb has a pair of anti-siphon holes in the carburetor's top cover. If either of these holes is plugged, then the fuel within the bowl can siphon over into the secondary bores and empty the fuel bowl thus making the engine difficult to restart. Those two holes are located behind the air cleaner stud and in the top of the secondary fuel channel. Using some fine pieces of wire in the holes can help to insure that they are clear.

[F-word541]

UPDATE: Took the car to a guy who is very knowledgeable with the old Fords. Checked everything out. found out that the Pertronix that I put in had failed and the spark was super weak. Also the vacuum advance on the distributor wasn't working. So I installed a newer distributor. Left out the Pertronix and kept the points and condenser on the new distributor. Adjusted valves. Apparently the Pertronix systems are prone to failure from what I am hearing. Starts and runs much better now. Very happy. Had the old girl out and about with no issues. Ready for the first show next month.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by F-word541

UPDATE: Took the car to a guy who is very knowledgeable with the old Fords. ......

Since you've removed the electronic ignition conversion and gone back to points, ask him if you need to re-install a ballast resistor in the coil circuit. They were originally put in starting in '56 along with the voltage change to 12v. They keep the 'running' voltage to the coil slightly lower and help the points last longer but it's bypassed during starter cranking.

[F-word541]

Yes. He put a ballast resistor back in to keep from burning up the points.

[dmsfrr]

Dang! You were right, he is very knowledgeable.

[F-word541]

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UPDATE:
Car has been running good. I do want to upgrade so I have been watching ebay and found a nice Autolite 4100. just finished re-building it. pulled the teapot and installed an adaptor plate. The only thing I am not sure about is a vacuum hose that ran from the old carb to the top of the fuel pump. can I plug that off? Or do I need to tie it in with the vacuum port for the distributor? I don't want to mess up the spark advance. I have already upgraded to a newer style distributor. Any advice would be appreciated.

[dmsfrr]

A vacuum line from the base of the teapot carb that went to the fuel pump vacuum booster would be for full manifold vacuum to run the windshield wipers and the heater controls, if your car has them.
You may need to make or find a fitting on the intake manifold to provide full vacuum to the wipers. Possibly drill & tap one into the carb adapter?
The tube on top of the fuel pump leading to the wiper motor should be labeled.

The fitting on the right front side of the carb (example below) has a 'ported' vacuum pressure, used only for the distributor advance unit. Tying into that line will mess up the timing advance.
.

[TedEaton]

If you have the late model carb and the late model distributor, then simply hook the timed or ported vacuum port at the carb to the vacuum can on the distributor. Set the initial ignition timing with the distributor vacuum hose unhooked and hook the vacuum line back up when you're through. If all is well, there should be no change in ignition timing at idle when the vacuum hose is hooked up versus being unhooked. It's only when the engine is slightly speeded up that you should see any significant increase in ignition timing with a timing light when the vacuum part of the distributor kicks in.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by TedEaton

... Set the initial ignition timing with the distributor vacuum hose unhooked and hook the vacuum line back up when you're through....

Because some folks don't already know...
Yes, you need to temporarily plug or cap the vacuum line going into the carburetor when doing this.

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Because some folks don't already know...
Yes, you need to temporarily plug or cap the vacuum line going into the carburetor when doing this.

Not really. There is no vacuum at that port at idle so it makes no difference whether it is plugged or open.

[F-word541]

Got the 4100 mounted and hooked up. Starts and runs good. I ended up drilling a hole in the side of the adapter plate at the secondary hole to add a port for full manifold vacuum. I just pressed in a 3/16" barb union and slid the vacuum hose on the fitting. Worked out pretty well. I also had to put a 45 under the heater control valve. It was about an 1/8" too close. Not sure if I have the right size jets in there. It came with 50's in the primary and 58's in the secondary. Seems to be running a little rich. I am getting some white smoke. Where I live is about 3500' elevation. Is there a chart for figuring out jet size?

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album....ictureid=32365
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album....ictureid=32366

[TedEaton]

The rule of thumb for altitude jetting is a one number reduction in jet size for each rise of 2000 feet. In your case, a two number jet reduction but going with a three number reduction might work out better. Rules are not an exact science.

[red carr]

I have an Edelbrock dry element cleaner on my 54 merc with teapot. Has a tall phenolic adapter the height of the carb. works great.