Plugging Away on The 32' Roadster

[Ian1932]

Painted some misc stuff yesterday at work. Lost a front shock lever somehow...Cant find it anywhere...Not sure about a rumble step or taillight. Not sure how you could do both. Everyday i just try to do something...

Note the brass water inlets. My father made these front billet brass. Thought it would be cool to use these on this car. I need to drill them yet...

[Flathead Youngin']

Pics are always good and we like updates!

[Mart]

Nice collection of parts there. I'm a little surprised by the drag link. 32s normally use a one piece part. (With dismantle-able ends). having an adjuster is ok, but two?

Mart.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Ian1932

Painted some misc stuff yesterday at work. Lost a front shock lever somehow...Cant find it anywhere...Not sure about a rumble step or taillight. Not sure how you could do both. Everyday i just try to do something...

Note the brass water inlets. My father made these front billet brass. Thought it would be cool to use these on this car. I need to drill them yet...

Boy, those brass inlets would be mighty pricey to do today!! Why wouldn't you drill the mounting hose in them before you painted them?? Curious!!

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Boy, those brass inlets would be mighty pricey to do today!! Why wouldn't you drill the mounting hose in them before you painted them?? Curious!!

Well...I using the paint shop at work because its so cold now. I normally have an hour or so of freedom. I needed to paint my brake line brackets and master cylinder. I just sandblasted a bunch of stuff, just enough i can do in an hour. If it chips ill blast another coat next batch...

[Charlie Stephens]

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I did both tail light and rumble seat step bracket by trimming the tail light bracket to fit inside of the recess in the rumble seat step bracket. I didn't modify the rumble seat bracket for fear of weakening it, also the rumble seat step bracket was original and the tail light bracket was repro.

Charlie Stephens

[DavidG]

While it is understood that you are not restoring the car to as-built condition, along with what Mart mentioned, the spark plug wire conduits in your photos are post-'36 versions.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

While it is understood that you are not restoring the car to as-built condition, along with what Mart mentioned, the spark plug wire conduits in your photos are post-'36 versions.

Crap...I didnt know their was a difference...Ill go grab some more. Hopefully i have the right ones...

[DavidG]

The '32-'36 versions' attachment arms are almost twice as long and are welded to the tubes vertically and then bent over 90 degrees where the holes are for the intake manifold bolts. If you happen to have a pair that have only a single flare in the tube where the spark plug wires exit to the distributor, those are true '32s. The '33-'36 versions have two progressive flares at that end (and are easier to insert the tapered rubber transition pieces accordingly).

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Ian1932

Crap...I didnt know their was a difference...Ill go grab some more. Hopefully i have the right ones...

This all depends on what year engine and what distributor you are running. If you are running a 32-36 engine, you'll need the correct ones. If you are running a 1939 or later 24 stud engine the ones in your photo are what you would need presuming you would be running a 3 bolt distributor.

One other note, IF you are running a 1939 and later engine, you will need a different crank pulley than that shown in your photos.

However, given you have a pair of lower water inlets painted I would presume you are running a 21 stud engine.

Good Catch on the conduits David!

[GaryU.]

From the basement, what I assume is a 33-36 conduit so one can tell the difference to the later ones.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

I did both tail light and rumble seat step bracket by trimming the tail light bracket to fit inside of the recess in the rumble seat step bracket. I didn't modify the rumble seat bracket for fear of weakening it, also the rumble seat step bracket was original and the tail light bracket was repro.

Charlie Stephens

Excellent idea! Im absolutly going to do this! going to do that exact thing? Im going to make sure i cant find others. Maybe i have a crappier one i would rather chop up...

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

The '32-'36 versions' attachment arms are almost twice as long and are welded to the tubes horizontally and then bent over 90 degrees where the holes are for the intake manifold bolts. If you happen to have a pair that have only a single flare in the tube where the spark plug wires exit to the distributor, those are true '32s. The '33-'36 versions have two progressive flares at that end (and are easier to insert the tapered rubber transition pieces accordingly).

Got it! Ill look tomorrow...

[DavidG]

GaryU's photos should be very helpful.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

GaryU's photos should be very helpful.

Yes, i printed those pics to take with me. Thanks Gary!

[qmdv]

Originally Posted by Ian1932

Yes, i printed those pics to take with me. Thanks Gary!

You also said Im in search of 1 or more front stock shock lever(s) for a 32'. Please PM me if you have something available.

I have a few shock levers but do not know what they are off of. What are the specs so maybe I can help

[Ian1932]

[QUOTE

I have a few shock levers but do not know what they are off of. What are the specs so maybe I can help[/QUOTE]

Looks like this. I ll get the length later. Im at work and dont have one with me.

[35fordtn]

Ian,
The one in your photo appears to be a 1933 not a 1932

[DavidG]

Sorry, but that's a '33 front shock arm. The '32 shock arms are shown in the photo below.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Sorry, but that's a '33 front shock arm. The '32 shock arms are shown in the photo below.

If this is one, that is good? i have several. But they do not look right either... Not sure why i was convinced the other was 32'. I know i looked at the pictures before...im an idiot...

[35fordtn]

That one is a 34 replacement shock with the unique arm or so it appears. Definitely not 32 either.

With slight bending many people have used 33 arms on a 32. They are much easier to find as well (I have several myself)

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

That one is a 34 replacement shock with the unique arm or so it appears. Definitely not 32 either.

With slight bending many people have used 33 arms on a 32. They are much easier to find as well (I have several myself)

Is by chance a model A shock arm the same as a 32'?

The one in the picture i took. If the balls are above one another fairly perpendicular to the floor, i could use them correct? Maybe my dad or ? bent these to work? Until i locate the correct ones?...Thing is, i probably have the correct ones. No one would understand, but for me to find what im looking for is like finding a needle in a hay stack...

[35fordtn]

Trust me I understand. Attach is a side by side comparison of a 32 and a 33 both are NOS.








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[DavidG]

Model A front shock arms are similar to the '32 version except at the ball end as the type of link to the spring perch differed considerably. On the A arm there is a flange surrounding the base of the ball.

[Ian1932]

Definitely going to make more Topics like this so you guys can keeping catching all these errors for me...lol

[Ian1932]

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not sure what these are...

This is the dist i was going to use...

[deuce lover]

The s- plug wire tubes not correct.The upper pair look like 37-40(not at all) ,My bad .The single '33-'36 drivers side.Your dist is a '33- early '36. It was commonly used to replace the '32. Should be just fine .Here is what the orig '32 V8 dist looks like without the coil.This has a remote coil adapter on it in place of the coil.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by deuce lover

The s- plug wire tubes not correct.The upper pair look like 37-40.The single '33-'36 drivers side.Your dist is a '33- early '36. It was commonly used to replace the '32. Should be just fine .Here is what the orig '32 V8 dist looks like without the coil.This has a remote coil adapter on it in place of the coil.

Thanks. Should i be looking for the other side or the 2 i have the same? Will that work with my dist?

[deuce lover]

My mistake the right S-plug tube is the one below the top one in your pic. That along with s-plug tube at bottom of your pics makes the pair that you can use with that dist.In looking again as the pics are not very clear both the top tubes are right side 33-36 and the bottom is left side 33-36.

[DavidG]

As Sheldon indicates you have a pair of spark plug wire conduits which will work just fine along with the distributor and coil in the photos in your post #26.

The centrifugal advance weights in the distributor will either be stamped with a 40, 40A, or 40B or not stamped with any number. You might be able to verify which by removing the big hex nut fitting on the left side of the distributor and what's beneath it and with a flashlight be able to see the outer sides of the weights while rotating the distributor shaft. It may not be possible see enough and you will have to remove the shaft assembly from the rear (you must remove the big hex nut fitting and the spring and vacuum brake inside either way). The variation in the weights are based on the combination of intake manifold and cylinder heads you are using. A stock '32 engine with cast iron heads and single-barrel Detroit Lubricator carburetor used advance weights with no markings. The substitution of aluminum heads in '33 used advance weights stamped either 40 or 40A. 40B stamped weights were used in '34-early '36 with aluminum heads and a two-barrel Stromberg carburetor. Any of them will work with a stock '32-'36 engine, but at some sacrifice in optimum performance if not matched to the cylinder head/carburetor being used.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

As Sheldon indicates you have a pair of spark plug wire conduits which will work just fine along with the distributor and coil in the photos in your post #26.

The centrifugal advance weights in the distributor will either be stamped with a 40, 40A, or 40B or not stamped with any number. You might be able to verify which by removing the big hex nut fitting on the left side of the distributor and what's beneath it and with a flashlight be able to see the outer sides of the weights while rotating the distributor shaft. It may not be possible see enough and you will have to remove the shaft assembly from the rear (you must remove the big hex nut fitting and the spring and vacuum brake inside either way). The variation in the weights are based on the combination of intake manifold and cylinder heads you are using. A stock '32 engine with cast iron heads and single-barrel Detroit Lubricator carburetor used advance weights with no markings. The substitution of aluminum heads in '33 used advance weights stamped either 40 or 40A. 40B stamped weights were used in '34-early '36 with aluminum heads and a two-barrel Stromberg carburetor. Any of them will work with a stock '32-'36 engine, but at some sacrifice in optimum performance if not matched to the cylinder head/carburetor being used.

Ill have to read that a bunch over...Sort of alien to me right now as i havent dabbled in the flathead engine talk at all really...but, i will get it over time...

So, in this pic i can use these 2 pcs.? Correct? They are solid and free of dents. Thanks for your help guys!

[Pat/Ohio]

Yes, They should work just fine! The longer one will be mounted on the driver's side and the shorter on the passenger side. Enjoying your posts! Pat

[DavidG]

Yes, correct!

[qmdv]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Trust me I understand. Attach is a side by side comparison of a 32 and a 33 both are NOS.








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And what one is the 32?

[DavidG]

See post #19 in this series.

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by qmdv

And what one is the 32?

The one farthest in the photo is a 1932..

[BoxCar Tom]

I have two extra front shock arms 6 1/2" long, are these 32s? I would post a picture but having difficulty at the moment

[Tinker]

Cool your keeping it close to stock. If that 35-36ish coil gives you some issue later (might not) see skip here.


Great project! would like as one, see more of it.


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