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Old 11-15-2019, 12:40 PM   #1
Ian1932
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Default Installing a 32' Roadster Body

I know this is a vague question...Im just looking for good info on this i might overlook.

If you were going to install a roadster body and firewall what would you make sure was completed before you would do this? I have a rolling chassis and everything is painted. Is there anything i wont be able to do after the body is in place?
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Old 11-15-2019, 01:40 PM   #2
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Fuel Line!!
While im sure it could be done with the body on, but if you are using the correct copper plated steel line, it can be a bear to work with and would be easier beforehand, at least on the 33-up cars anyways. I have never installed a 1932 Body but I would imagine the same would hold true.
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Old 11-15-2019, 02:31 PM   #3
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

I'd have everything done on the chassis that I can possibly do. It would be a full roller, all lines, all wiring to the rear and from the steering box to the front, etc.. It is a lot easier when you can crawl around the chassis - than once you put the body on. Also, make sure you get good quality welting for under the body and also check all your body mounting locations. I can't remember if a stock 32 frame uses "cage nuts" - but clean/tap all of them if it does and know that they are in good shape. Also, paint/protect the underside of your roadster body - you want to complete all of that stuff and protect it for the future. I'd also install the gas tank (before you run the lines).
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Old 11-15-2019, 04:04 PM   #4
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

The fuel/air line as Michael mentions and the tail lamp wiring as Bored&Stroked mentioned plus the exhaust system. Installing the gas tank on a '32-'34 passenger car chassis before the body is not advisable in my opinion, as it gets in the way of a normal post-production body drop and it is easy to install once the body is in place. (It is a must after the '34s.)

This assumes that you will be installing the body after at least the rear axle and torque tube are installed and that your brake system is in place on the chassis, including the pedals. While I normally install the engine and transmission after the body is in place, that's a function of my process and I recommend that you consider installing the engine and transmission before the body as the installation will be easier and you can easily install the engine compartment wiring once the firewall is in place. In any event, install your steering gear box and column shaft before installing the engine as there is very little clearance to install it after the engine is installed.

My experience with numerous '32 phaeton and roadster bodies is that it is far better to install the firewall on the frame before the body is installed, including the instrument panel (without the choke and throttle controls and the dash light switch knob installed) and also to install the dash to the body cowl before mating the two. It can be a real challenge to install the dash after the body is installed given the close proximity of the instrument panel and the tuck under of the cowl sheet metal.

Also install your cowl vent before installing the body as it is hard to reach once the body and instrument panel are in place.

That pretty well covers it.
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Old 11-15-2019, 06:24 PM   #5
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Firewall and gas tank are just sitting there...
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Old 11-15-2019, 06:31 PM   #6
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

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David has installed more 32 bodies than most anyone out there, and his response proves such. Little details like installing the cowl vent first I wouldn’t have thought of.
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Old 11-15-2019, 06:39 PM   #7
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

The Sorenson video of the 1st body (Victoria) coming down being mated to the frame after Henry stamps the 18-I shows a worker dealing with the handle for the vent like the spring was not on.
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Old 11-15-2019, 06:49 PM   #8
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Correct, the spring should not be installed at that point of the body installation as it will not properly clear that which is behind the instrument panel. Good point.


The phaetons and roadsters are the only '32 bodies where it is highly recommended to have the instrument panel and dash in place when installing the body on the chassis frame. With all of the others, that can be left for after the body is installed. However, it takes to people or one with seriously long arms to install the instrument panel fasteners once the body is in place.

Last edited by DavidG; 11-15-2019 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:27 PM   #9
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

I must need to get out just a bit more often, 'cuz that is the first chassis on a "serious" '32 that I remember ever seeing painted brown. DD



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Old 11-15-2019, 07:37 PM   #10
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

[QUOTE=V8COOPMAN;1821622]I must need to get out just a bit more often, 'cuz that is the first chassis on a "serious" '32 that I remember ever seeing painted brown. DD



LOL...I know its "poop brown" as the guys at work call it, lol...This car im doing just like my Dad wanted it done. This picture is closest i could find. I think though its going look look pretty good when its done...I can later make this a stock look without to much effort later. The 5w coupe will be spot on stock colors w/Brewster green body with apple green wheels...
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:43 PM   #11
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordtn View Post
David has installed more 32 bodies than most anyone out there, and his response proves such. Little details like installing the cowl vent first I wouldn’t have thought of.
Honestly, I love this site because of the help from everyone, but, David takes it to whole new level. I probably have no business even working on these cars as everything i need to do im doing for the first time...I have no idea what to do or how this goes together. I didnt have a complete car to take a part so you can imagine what goes on in my head...He always takes the time to write this big long thing and point everything out! You can tell he knows more than anyone on the planet about these cars, his information is solid as rock! I swear, when i started this car i could only tell a 32' from the grill shell...If you took the shell off i wouldnt be sure what it was...

Last edited by Ian1932; 11-15-2019 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:06 PM   #12
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Everyone has to have there first go around at some point, we are lucky that for guys like David, that their first go around was 50 years ago and they are willing to share their extensive knowledge. If you own the v-8 club’s 1932 Ford book (hopefully you do) in the first few pages you’ll see a VERY young David taking his first ride in first his restoration which wasn’t complete at the time of the drive and from the appearance of the photo it may not have even had a seat in it. I smile every time in see that picture in the book knowing we all have had that same anxious day for the first drive.
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Old 11-15-2019, 08:35 PM   #13
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

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Everyone has to have there first go around at some point, we are lucky that for guys like David, that their first go around was 50 years ago and they are willing to share their extensive knowledge. If you own the v-8 club’s 1932 Ford book (hopefully you do) in the first few pages you’ll see a VERY young David taking his first ride in first his restoration which wasn’t complete at the time of the drive and from the appearance of the photo it may not have even had a seat in it. I smile every time in see that picture in the book knowing we all have had that same anxious day for the first drive.
Yes, i do have the books! I have everything ready to put this together...The thing that is going to kill me know are the pedals and mounting, electrical, ignition, where the stuff goes and how it mounts. I really need up close color pics of a rolling chassis with exhaust. Up close pics of the "K" member area with everything attached...more pics for fun. I love body work and painting cause thats all i know about...Now assembly...lol
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Old 11-15-2019, 09:18 PM   #14
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Given the level of detail and quality of the work that I can see in the photos, I'd complete the chassis before I put the body on. I'd put the engine/transmission in and I'd even complete the exhaust system. There is no reason to do this stuff afterwards, when you can do it now. Also, complete ALL the brake system - as running the lines and getting everything tidy is a lot of work (especially if you don't have a lift). If you don't have a complete brake system, I highly recommend and I'll say that twice . . . I highly recommend the Early V8 Garage and Richard Lacy. There is nobody that makes more complete and awesome brake systems than he does. Yes, it is not cheap, but his parts, craftsmanship and level of completeness is not rivaled by anybody else in the business. Lastly - you have a fantastic project/car . . . very glad to see that you are honoring what your Father wants - that makes me smile!
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Old 11-15-2019, 09:30 PM   #15
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Question: In looking at your photos, I spied a couple things in the front-end that are a bit strange.

1) The front axle has been dropped - though it appears to be a later axle - maybe a 33-34, doesn't look like a 32. (No big deal, has nothing to do with safety or use).
2) I saw a couple photos where the driver's side of the front wishbone looks to have a major kink/bend in it?? If what I see is correct, then it should be corrected. Maybe that wishbone was used with some later engine conversion (some big OHV V8) - but it should not be that way for an original flathead and I'd question the geometry of the front end as such. In my mind, this needs to be addressed.

Here is the picture I'm talking about:

32Wishbone.jpg
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Old 11-15-2019, 10:03 PM   #16
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked View Post
Question: In looking at your photos, I spied a couple things in the front-end that are a bit strange.

1) The front axle has been dropped - though it appears to be a later axle - maybe a 33-34, doesn't look like a 32. (No big deal, has nothing to do with safety or use).
2) I saw a couple photos where the driver's side of the front wishbone looks to have a major kink/bend in it?? If what I see is correct, then it should be corrected. Maybe that wishbone was used with some later engine conversion (some big OHV V8) - but it should not be that way for an original flathead and I'd question the geometry of the front end as such. In my mind, this needs to be addressed.

Here is the picture I'm talking about:

Attachment 412753
So, My dad was originally going to put a chevy v8 in the coupe. This was modified on purpose. He thinks he did that to clear the starter. He doesnt remember...Im not sure about the axle. He had the rear end of the coupe axle tubes flipped over so the spring perch was on the bottom and the shock mount cut off. I have an unmodified wish bone but im going to use in on the coupe which is now going to be a stock car. The wish bone fit like a glove and clearly had welds where is was cut and had a pc added to account for the bend. If i had another one i would have used it but you really wont see it anyway. I saved all the best stock stuff for the coupe and had most of it sandblasted already stashed in their game room. He did these things years ago when everyone wanted tube shocks and big chevy...
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Old 11-15-2019, 11:01 PM   #17
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Maybe to clear the oil filter, but the starter on a chev engine in on the other side.
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Old 11-15-2019, 11:12 PM   #18
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

A minor thing, but judging from your photos you are planning to use an original front license plate bracket as it is already painted and ready to go. When installed on the front cross tube it would normally end up vertical, but your front cross tube needs to be removed and rotated 180 degrees so that the hole in the center of the tube is vertical for proper mounting of the license plate bracket.
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Old 11-15-2019, 11:22 PM   #19
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

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A minor thing, but judging from your photos you are planning to use an original front license plate bracket as it is already painted and ready to go. When installed on the front cross tube it would normally end up vertical, but your front cross tube needs to be removed and rotated 180 degrees so that the hole in the center of the tube is vertical for proper mounting of the license plate bracket.

Yeah, its not bolted in...Its just hangin there. Just set some things on it to see what it looks like..And, David, tomorrow im going take some pictures of exhaust pcs. I have new muffler and some pipes that are new. Maybe you can determine what i should try to use. Also, i have the books, but, im trying to get an upclose picture of the "k" mender with all the "gizmos" attached. Do you have a good picture of that? Its hard to see if the book because i cant zoom in. Thanks for all your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-16-2019, 08:55 AM   #20
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Hi Ian,

Beautiful prep work and informative instructions here!

I did notice that you have 37-41 spindles I think with an after market "hairpin" steering arm. I had originally planned doing the same. I changed my mind after searching on "bump steer" and whether this arrangement could be a geometry error. I bought kingpins from Richard Lacy and talked to him about the steering arm. He highly suggested using the 32 spindle which I also had.


http://www.earlyv8garage.net/


I've put a few thread quotes below and a picture of my 32 stock spindle with 40 backing plates. As a minimum you will need a shorter drag link. Speedway sells them to a length you can specify.

Quote from Richard here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/.../#post-8018947


"We highly recommend using the original spindles on 32-36's. It is especially important on 32-34's because the aftermarket steering arms are made incorrectly and always have been, which results in the original draglink being about 3/4" too long, which in turn causes the geometry to be incorrect AND when the steering gear is on high center, the vehicle will be making a left turn!!!"

Another thread with good explanations , https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30373

"rb-- i don`t know of any steering arm that is made correctly today or in the last 70 years with the correct offset. it amazes me that manufacturers and hot rod shops don`t realize that the steering arms they are making and installing are made wrong. it would be so simple to make them right. obviously they don`t test their designs or installations. adjustable draglinks and clocking pitman arms will connect the steering box but it won`t correct the geometry and will turn more turns in one direction from center. the center cannot be changed because of the high spot in steering box. this makes it steer tighter in the straight ahead position. the only proper fix is to bend the after market steering arm forward the same amount that all stock 28-34 spindle arms come from the factory"

"RB, to expand on what Barry is saying the arm on the stock spindle is forward of the axle so that the intersection of the arm and the drag link form a 90* angle with the wheels pointed straight ahead. That is the geometry Barry spoke of that allows equal steering in both directions. As far as the stock arm raising when you turn left that's happening because of the caster setting on the axle.
I don't really know about the stock spring loaded d/l ends but I can say from experience that if a side steer d/l, with tie rod ends or even Heim joints, moves up and down on the same plane as the radius rods (wishbone, split 'bone, four bar) the bump steer is negligible"


Glenn
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Old 11-16-2019, 10:16 AM   #21
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Quote:
Originally Posted by glennpm View Post
Hi Ian,

Beautiful prep work and informative instructions here!

I did notice that you have 37-41 spindles I think with an after market "hairpin" steering arm. I had originally planned doing the same. I changed my mind after searching on "bump steer" and whether this arrangement could be a geometry error. I bought kingpins from Richard Lacy and talked to him about the steering arm. He highly suggested using the 32 spindle which I also had.



Glenn
Ok, thanks! I see what your saying...I have some spindles sandblasted in the basement. Maybe ill just change it out...Thanks for the details! Great info. Ill look at some drag links today. Can i shorten one to compensate? Maybe my dad already did that? My fathers memory has kinda gone down hill but at the time he knew what he was doing, he just cant remember. The entire front end that i used was on a driving car just the way that is shown now. My dad was a machine repair man for a steel mill. Their house is full of milling machines and lathes and...I made the bronze shackle bushing that you can kinda see in the photos on the lathe myself. Pretty proud of that...Thanks for all your input!
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Old 11-16-2019, 10:27 AM   #22
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Given the level of detail and quality of the work that I can see in the photos, I'd complete the chassis before I put the body on. I'd put the engine/transmission in and I'd even complete the exhaust system. There is no reason to do this stuff afterwards, when you can do it now. Also, complete ALL the brake system - as running the lines and getting everything tidy is a lot of work (especially if you don't have a lift). If you don't have a complete brake system, I highly recommend and I'll say that twice . . . I highly recommend the Early V8 Garage and Richard Lacy. There is nobody that makes more complete and awesome brake systems than he does. Yes, it is not cheap, but his parts, craftsmanship and level of completeness is not rivaled by anybody else in the business. Lastly - you have a fantastic project/car . . . very glad to see that you are honoring what your Father wants - that makes me smile!

Thanks for the compliments! Motivation comes from it! Dad tears up when he sees this thing slowly come together. When i started this car i asked him what he was going to do. I wrote in down verbatim and am trying do do as he wanted. My dream is to drive him to a local show and have people oogle over it. Everything was broke down it pcs and brought to bare metal. Im at the point where i just need to put it together. Engine will be ready in march! Going to send out the tranny as i just dont know enough...
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Old 11-16-2019, 11:45 AM   #23
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Good!


Regarding "I have some spindles sandblasted in the basement. Maybe ill just change it out..."; if they're 32 spindles I'd think about putting them on. You will need a spacer ring kit that Richard sells here: http://www.earlyv8garage.net/


Post a picture of your drag link and we'll be able to tell if it looks like it would work.


You are very fortunate to have all your Dad's work behind you and that he is getting to see it come together!


Glenn
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Old 11-16-2019, 04:18 PM   #24
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Soon to be revealed!
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Old 11-17-2019, 10:05 AM   #25
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

RE: 32-34 front spindles: I would definitely run these - they are just "right" on a car like this (they look right, they fit right, they're designed for the 32 drag link, etc).

BUT - as you have a fairly large drop in your front axle, you will probably NOT be able to just put them on the car. The reason is that the stock tie-rod will most likely hit your stock-styled wish bone arms. This requires that the stock steering arms be heated and correctly bent. Now, it is not that hard to do - if you know WHAT to do and have the proper tools, jigs to do it (starting with an acetylene torch with a big rosebud tip). In addition - the geometry needs to be correct (on the arms) - so everything fits as it should . . . using a stock 32 drag link and tie rod (which look the best). Depending on your front axle width - you'll probably need to shorten your stock tie-rod by about 1 1/4" and re-thread it - or you'll not be able to correctly set the toe-in.

Also, the king pins need to be precisely fitted to the spindles - and you'll need new spindle bushings. I prefer to have my bushings HONED to fit . . . with a very tight fitment.

I would contact Okie Joe Casto - he can do the work on your spindles (he also will magnaflux the results - which is very important to me!). He also correctly fits the king pins - which is very important. I'd suggest you drop him an email and get your spindles setup correctly . . . this is not an area to experiment on.

[email protected]

Good luck!
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Old 11-18-2019, 08:00 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked View Post
Question: In looking at your photos, I spied a couple things in the front-end that are a bit strange.

1) The front axle has been dropped - though it appears to be a later axle - maybe a 33-34, doesn't look like a 32. (No big deal, has nothing to do with safety or use).
2) I saw a couple photos where the driver's side of the front wishbone looks to have a major kink/bend in it?? If what I see is correct, then it should be corrected. Maybe that wishbone was used with some later engine conversion (some big OHV V8) - but it should not be that way for an original flathead and I'd question the geometry of the front end as such. In my mind, this needs to be addressed.

Here is the picture I'm talking about:

Attachment 412753
Dont get me wrong i am happy about, but, i wish i would have found these earlier...
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:16 PM   #27
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

A related question. Does the frame welt go front to back all the way on the frame, under the firewall feet, front fenders and gas tank, or just under the body itself.

Thanks,

Neal
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:46 PM   #28
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

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A related question. Does the frame welt go front to back all the way on the frame, under the firewall feet, front fenders and gas tank, or just under the body itself.

Thanks,

Neal
I made a post called "frame webbing" David answered this question with great detail. Check it out! He posted pictures as well...

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...=frame+webbing
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:51 PM   #29
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

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Good!


Regarding "I have some spindles sandblasted in the basement. Maybe ill just change it out..."; if they're 32 spindles I'd think about putting them on. You will need a spacer ring kit that Richard sells here: http://www.earlyv8garage.net/


Post a picture of your drag link and we'll be able to tell if it looks like it would work.


You are very fortunate to have all your Dad's work behind you and that he is getting to see it come together!


Glenn
Here are the drag links i could find. There are more but ill have to go back and try to find them...Thanks for your help!
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:54 PM   #30
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Only the second one from the right will work with you current setup.
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:57 PM   #31
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Only the second one from the right will work with you current setup.
Is it because i can adjust the length it seems? Thanks for your help!
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:03 PM   #32
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

You need the adjustment, but you also need that type of tie-rod end if you use the loop on your spindle. Unless there is some type of adapter for a ball to mount in the loop.
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:53 PM   #33
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Nick,


FYI, the two long ones in your photo of drag links appear to be stock '32s. The one on the far left appears to be a stock '33-'34 drag link and the Pitman arm attached to it the same.
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Old 11-19-2019, 09:18 AM   #34
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Hi Ian,


As JSeery noted, the second one from the right is the only one that could work for you. Make sure that you center the steering wheel, align the front wheels to straight ahead and then adjust the drag link length to just fit into the Pitman and steering arm holes.


Regarding your wishbone, there is a very good chance that the axle is being pulled to the left by the bend in the left arm. When the bend was made, it shortened the left side. The metal could have been stretched to compensate but unlikely. Just like with your 32 spindle, better to replace that stuff now even though more prep and paint will be required, then wish you did it later on.


Glenn
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:29 AM   #35
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Hi Ian,


As JSeery noted, the second one from the right is the only one that could work for you. Make sure that you center the steering wheel, align the front wheels to straight ahead and then adjust the drag link length to just fit into the Pitman and steering arm holes.


Regarding your wishbone, there is a very good chance that the axle is being pulled to the left by the bend in the left arm. When the bend was made, it shortened the left side. The metal could have been stretched to compensate but unlikely. Just like with your 32 spindle, better to replace that stuff now even though more prep and paint will be required, then wish you did it later on.


Glenn
Glenn, my father did the mods so im sure it was done correctly...He is no ding dong and has built several cars from ground up, lol... When i mounted the frame over the spring the ball fit in the socket perfectly. If it was to be pulling i would think i would have really needed to pull on as the spring in kinda trapped in the front cross member channel. This is a totally different frame that the front end can from also. I did find 2 more that were not modified, i should, but really dont want to take that all apart again. The spindle i can change out basically at any time though...Thanks for your input and helping me get this done correctly! It is greatly appreciated!!!
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Old 11-19-2019, 11:01 AM   #36
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Hi Nick, sorry for calling you Ian! I was corrected offline ;-)


Glenn
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Old 11-19-2019, 11:04 AM   #37
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Hi Nick,


You may be okay, just take a couple of measurements for each leg of the wishbone. Better to replace it now than later especially since you have a couple that you could use.



Glenn
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Old 11-19-2019, 11:18 AM   #38
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

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Hi Nick, sorry for calling you Ian! I was corrected offline ;-)


Glenn
Glenn, my name is Ian, my middle name is Nick. My family started to call me Nick because that was my grandfathers name and they said i was a spitting image of him. It has really stuck. I actually introduce myself as Nick. Most people call me Nick but then most people call me Ian, lol. It doesnt matter, im so used to it now after these years...All my friends and family call me Nick, the people i dont know call me Ian, lol.
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Old 11-19-2019, 12:24 PM   #39
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Ian/Nick,


I'm the guilty party regarding spilling the beans regarding your name. I hope there's no offense, as none was intended.


David/Dave
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Old 11-19-2019, 12:28 PM   #40
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Ian/Nick,


I'm the guilty party regarding spilling the beans regarding your name. I hope there's no offense, as none was intended.


David/Dave
lol, none at all...If you saw me and yelled either, i would look!
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Old 11-22-2019, 07:07 AM   #41
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

So the exhaust is done. I just took it back down to paint it. The bracket kit i ordered made this super easy. There were few clamps with brackets which was good as i had a few to choose to modify.

Brake lines are done, almost. Need to mount a mater cylinder...Not really sure how to do this...Or where it should go. I guess i first need the pedals in place? Them i can plumb the rest of the brakes which should only take a few minutes...Does anyone have a few pictures of their master cylinder mounted & connected the the brake pedal and lines. Also need some mounting info...Pictures would really help me with this!

The fuel line, Not really sure what material this is or where it goes. Im guessing this is something i would run a metal line of some sort and then cut it to length after i get the engine and take installed? Can anyone direct me with this or share some pictures?

The tail-lamp wiring, should i do this first only so i wont have to crawl around on the floor? If this is the case im going to do that later.

Once again, thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:30 AM   #42
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Hi Ian ... err Nick ;-)


Richard Lacy and son sell a conversion kit so this may be worth looking into.


http://www.earlyv8garage.net/Convers...geles__CA.html


I can post my home made setup if you're interested. It is quite a bit of work though to make. It does work very well for me.


Glenn
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Old 11-22-2019, 09:41 AM   #43
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

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Hi Ian ... err Nick ;-)


Richard Lacy and son sell a conversion kit so this may be worth looking into.


http://www.earlyv8garage.net/Convers...geles__CA.html


I can post my home made setup if you're interested. It is quite a bit of work though to make. It does work very well for me.


Glenn
I would like to see you homemade setup if you have time to take pics! I have a few of these master cylinders shown here. I wonder how this is set up? This is the only picture i could find...
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Old 11-22-2019, 01:00 PM   #44
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Originally, a product called Bundy tubing was used by Ford for fuel lines. It is composed of s copper-plated steel steel strip formed (wrapped) into double wall thickness tubing and fused together. Through the 1935 model year, the fuel gauges Ford used were so-called nydrostatic gauges which operated based on the amount of air pressure built up in the in-tank sending unit. The air traveled through a very small air line also made of Bundy tubing which was fused to the fuel line except at the very rear and at the firewall. The routing of these lines is shown on page A-14-5 and in the photos below.

While I have installed fuel/air lines on '32s with the body already in place, the better way is to install it before the body is installed.

The tail lamp wiring is not difficult to install after the body is in place, but again, it is a lot easier to do so before the body drop.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 712.JPG (60.0 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg 713.JPG (60.2 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg 714.JPG (53.0 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg Image Expert Photos 500.jpg (72.0 KB, 56 views)
File Type: jpg Image Expert Photos 501.jpg (61.4 KB, 48 views)
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Old 11-22-2019, 01:18 PM   #45
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

This is my personal design for my 32.

I first determined what I could have for brake pedal lever ratios to work with my planed master cylinder in back of and just below the frame center-section. I had a stock 1940 pedal assembly with bracket so measured the lever distances from the centerline of the brake shaft to the pedal and then for the welded on brake arm I made.

I drilled two holes in the arm, the longer is what I used and the shorter, a contingent, which would require a drill hole through the frame for the push rod. The 40 has a 1 to 6 ratio and my 32 with the long lever, furthest out hole from shaft centerline, is 1 to 4-1/3.

I made the MC mount from 2”-4”-1/8” wall tube steel. I have a thick plate on the back where my bracket bolts to the center section on. It is slightly thicker than the indent at the back on the 32 center-section. It is attached with grade 8 bolts that hold the pedal bracket to the frame. The MC mount is ¼” thick. I added a plate and welded on side in a few blind weld holes from the other side.

In one my attached pictures you can see the back of the bracket. The three symmetrically located holes are for the MC. The one off to the left is to accept the engine steady rod rear retaining nut to the shaft.
The brake action is great for me. It is easy to modulate the action and not too stiff but more so than a 40 for example.

Glenn
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Lever arm dimensions.jpg (32.9 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1159.jpg (44.9 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1162.jpg (61.3 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1164.jpg (65.4 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1166.jpg (65.9 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN3537.jpg (30.8 KB, 61 views)

Last edited by glennpm; 11-22-2019 at 01:37 PM. Reason: correction and added pictures
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Old 11-22-2019, 05:43 PM   #46
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Quote:
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Originally, a product called Bundy tubing was used by Ford for fuel lines. It is composed of s copper-plated steel steel strip formed (wrapped) into double wall thickness tubing and fused together. Through the 1935 model year, the fuel gauges Ford used were so-called nydrostatic gauges which operated based on the amount of air pressure built up in the in-tank sending unit. The air traveled through a very small air line also made of Bundy tubing which was fused to the fuel line except at the very rear and at the firewall. The routing of these lines is shown on page A-14-5 and in the photos below.

While I have installed fuel/air lines on '32s with the body already in place, the better way is to install it before the body is installed.

The tail lamp wiring is not difficult to install after the body is in place, but again, it is a lot easier to do so before the body drop.
Thanks David! So can i use 1/4" brake line tubing for these? Or maybe just a roll of copper from home depot? Are the ends going to be just a flare like the brake lines? I have done zero research on this yet so i know nothing other than what you told me so far...Thanks!

Also, it seems you have little clips to hold the lines in place? Is that a modern clip of some type?
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Old 11-22-2019, 05:48 PM   #47
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This is my personal design for my 32.

I first determined what I could have for brake pedal lever ratios to work with my planed master cylinder in back of and just below the frame center-section. I had a stock 1940 pedal assembly with bracket so measured the lever distances from the centerline of the brake shaft to the pedal and then for the welded on brake arm I made.

I drilled two holes in the arm, the longer is what I used and the shorter, a contingent, which would require a drill hole through the frame for the push rod. The 40 has a 1 to 6 ratio and my 32 with the long lever, furthest out hole from shaft centerline, is 1 to 4-1/3.

I made the MC mount from 2”-4”-1/8” wall tube steel. I have a thick plate on the back where my bracket bolts to the center section on. It is slightly thicker than the indent at the back on the 32 center-section. It is attached with grade 8 bolts that hold the pedal bracket to the frame. The MC mount is ¼” thick. I added a plate and welded on side in a few blind weld holes from the other side.

In one my attached pictures you can see the back of the bracket. The three symmetrically located holes are for the MC. The one off to the left is to accept the engine steady rod rear retaining nut to the shaft.
The brake action is great for me. It is easy to modulate the action and not too stiff but more so than a 40 for example.

Glenn
Glenn! Nice work! I see what you did there. That should help me get rolling. Going to get pedals on tonight maybe? Im might do just what you've done! Thanks for taking the time to take pics and all...Thanks you!
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Old 11-22-2019, 05:49 PM   #48
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

You’re very welcome.

Glenn
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Old 11-22-2019, 06:09 PM   #49
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Thanks David! So can i use 1/4" brake line tubing for these? Or maybe just a roll of copper from home depot? Are the ends going to be just a flare like the brake lines? I have done zero research on this yet so i know nothing other than what you told me so far...Thanks!

Also, it seems you have little clips to hold the lines in place? Is that a modern clip of some type?

Ian...DON'T use copper line for brakes. It doesn't meet the pressure requirements. 1/4" line was what Henry used originally, and the vintage hydraulic brakes all use fittings sized for 1/4" tubing. Don't forget to DOUBLE FLARE brake flares. Get this "made for brakes" tubing at your local auto parts house. Click the link below! DD


https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...008%7CL3*15690


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Old 11-22-2019, 06:44 PM   #50
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

And don't use plain copper for the fuel line either. There's good reason it was steel originally. Some will chime in and write that they've used copper fuel lines for years without a problem. Those that did encounter problems likely can't write from where they are now.
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Old 11-22-2019, 06:55 PM   #51
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Ian...DON'T use copper line for brakes. It doesn't meet the pressure requirements. 1/4" line was what Henry used originally, and the vintage hydraulic brakes all use fittings sized for 1/4" tubing. Don't forget to DOUBLE FLARE brake flares. Get this "made for brakes" tubing at your local auto parts house. Click the link below! DD


https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...008%7CL3*15690




See post #46
Oh no, i didnt use copper for brake lines. I used nicop! I was asking if you can use brake line for fuel line or copper for fuel line...I did double flare everything as well...Thanks for looking out

Last edited by Ian1932; 11-22-2019 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 11-22-2019, 06:57 PM   #52
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And don't use plain copper for the fuel line either. There's good reason it was steel originally. Some will chime in and write that they've used copper fuel lines for years without a problem. Those that did encounter problems likely can't write from where they are now.
Can i use brake line for fuel line? What are the fittings at the ends of the fuel line? It looks like a double flare just like a brake line? Also what are the little clips you used to hold the fuel line in place in your photos? Thanks!
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Old 11-22-2019, 07:07 PM   #53
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Can i use brake line for fuel line? What are the fittings at the ends of the fuel line? It looks like a double flare just like a brake line? Also what are the little clips you used to hold the fuel line in place in your photos? Thanks!
Ian,
The fittings for the Ford fuel lines are quite special. When you get to that point, let me know as we make them.
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Old 11-22-2019, 07:11 PM   #54
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Ian,
The fittings for the Ford fuel lines are quite special. When you get to that point, let me know as we make them.

I think im at that point...What is the line i should use? Thanks
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Old 11-22-2019, 07:14 PM   #55
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

As mentioned, copper plated steel. Given you are doing a not 100% stock car I wouldn't bother with the original Siamese line used in 1932-35..

If you have trouble sourcing any of this, we stock it all.
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Old 11-23-2019, 01:19 PM   #56
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As mentioned, copper plated steel. Given you are doing a not 100% stock car I wouldn't bother with the original Siamese line used in 1932-35..

If you have trouble sourcing any of this, we stock it all.
35fordtn, im taking it you own some type of business? Can you PM me some more info on what i need to buy or post some links for me? Thanks for your time...!

Last edited by Ian1932; 11-23-2019 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 11-23-2019, 01:59 PM   #57
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Third Generation
https://www.facebook.com/Third-Gen-A...1476857296508/
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Old 11-23-2019, 01:59 PM   #58
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Third Generation Automotive

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Old 02-16-2020, 09:49 AM   #59
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

Any updates?
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Old 02-16-2020, 08:15 PM   #60
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Default Re: Installing a 32' Roadster Body

I too had been following this thread with interest. Ian32, where are you? Hope all is well.
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Old 02-16-2020, 11:56 PM   #61
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Interesting read. Think for the most part you know where you going then ask questions. Another nice car.
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