Building Some 1932'S - Come Along for the Ride

[Ian1932]

Hi, my name is Ian and im new to the site/forum, thanks for having me. I guess im just going to jump right in the fire...

So, a little back ground...I have always been around old cars, swap meets, shows and such with dad. My father gave me about 2.5 cars of vintage Henry For Tin, frames and everything else that goes along with them. Im going to build these cars, with hopefully some help from guys on this site. I have done a large amount of body work and sprayed about every type enamel, lacquer, base and clears over the years. And also have years mechanical repairs as well. I know what these cars and their parts look like as i have seen them thousands of times, but, its been about 15 years since i was "into it". Im going to need some help because there are parts that i cant figure out what they are for. Im going to have to ask a lot of questions that i hope everyone can point me in the right direction.

I do want make these cars like my dad would want to see them, which is very similar to what i would want to see with all original 1932 parts. The first one will be a roadster with a flat head V8 and 18" wheels. I will add fenders to this car but i want to get it to the point of completion, then, lastly finish and fit fenders and running boards. Who knows it might be fender less...

Well...Today was day one. I went through a bunch of different parts and picked pcs that would be the easiest to repair or get to finish paint. Ill attach some pictures. Some of the parts, that there are more than one are just because i couldn't decide which was was better candidate. The first pics of these pcs are really nice parts and he already did some work to most of them. Not all the parts i have are even decent. Im going to attack this by prepping parts for paint, painting them and then staging them in the basement in protection until i have enough to start to assemble. Rolling chassis is going to be pushed to the top of the list but i didnt take any pictures yet.

Im going to take a bunch of pictures to record everything i do. If im not on for a while, im still here, i just have a full time job and kids that have things going on all the time.

I wanted to add that im not looking to sell anything. These cars have sentimental value to me and my family wont trade it for money.

Conclusion, here are some pics of day one of parts that im going to prep for paint. Ill let the colors be a surprise. Hopefully everyone can stay tuned and point out things that maybe i might not catch or maybe about to do something wrong. Thanks!

[JSeery]

Welcome to the Barn!

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Welcome - nice parts to start off with!

[corvette8n]

Welcome to the barn, looks like a good start, stay motivated.

[texas webb]

Welcome,and look forward to more.

[funrunr]

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Welcome, count me in for the ride.

[Ian1932]

Thank you for the welcome!

I already have some questions...

1st: Is there a place where i can find images of stock frames and bodies that are assembled but not together? I need to do some body work but it would be awesome if i had some close up pictures of cars without interior or seats. Or frames that are together with running gear that are close ups. This would help me greatly as i dont have a complete car for reference. This is tough to just search because most of the things i find they modified things to accept a different motor or brakes or whatever...

2nd: Can anyone recommend a book(s) that might have the same as above but might be a published work specific to 32'

Thanks for the help and help to come!

[jimTN]

If you are building original or original era, there are plenty of good books available including some documentary, service bulletins and parts books. I building for a garbage truck engine and Easter egg color, this is the wrong forum. There are some very experienced, knowledgeable folks here that can help you with original questions. The 32 is an animal of its own.

[TJ]

You can get a good start by going to the Early Ford V-8 Club website; www.earlyfordv8.org and purchasing the V-8 Club's two volume set of the 1932 Ford book. This book will give you tons of information that will help you identify parts and help with a correct restoration.

[woodiewagon46]

Couldn't agree more with TJ, purchase the books from the V-8 Club.

[deuce_roadster]

If you are going to make a Concourse car you really need the two volume 32 books that DavidG was the main author of mentioned above. You probably are not aware that most of these early Fords had many changes during the model year so there are early, middle and late parts that shouldn't be mixed if judging is your goal. An example would be if you had an early serial number frame your car shouldn't have a late firewall in it. These volumes will help immensely in that regard.
And as a bonus, DavidG answers questions here!

[rotorwrench]

Even though this part of the forum is labeled early V8, the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder cars/trucks in the time frame are also welcome. If you have V8s then you have some treasures there.

Welcome into the barn.

[Ian1932]

Thanks for the book suggestions!

Was this frame spreader bar chrome on all models or was it an option? It cleaned up ok, if this is indeed an original part im gong to use it. I have 3 that are black and rusty but not pitted. Not sure how i could tell though.

I have a bunch or stuff ready for some final 2K priming and soon then to be painted. I got some paint an im ready to roll if the weather agrees...

I threw in some pictures of the rumble seat and front seat as they are being covered now and want to have good record of this. I had 3 hides of Edleman Leather left from a job at work. In my mind this is the highest quality product one might get their hands on. The company paid $1150 per hide...!!!

[deuce_roadster]

Original spreader bars were painted black. If you have an original that is chrome plated someone did that along the way.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

Original spreader bars were painted black. If you have an original that is chrome plated someone did that along the way.

Thanks much!

[Ian1932]

Frame is off to get blasted. Its not the greatest but was easy to get to. Im confident i can make it look good. This frame was never modified that i can see. I grabbed a firewall to work on and prep. The hoods are ready now. My dad had these louvered on the early 50's when he was in the army.

[vulture]

Welcome and Wow cool collection of parts and look forward to the builds. Please ask any questions on the parts with many 32 collectors on the Ford Barn. In fact the book of 1932 restoration specs is on the Barn and I am sure David will respond to any question asked. So what body styles are the builds?

[deuce_roadster]

Frame looks pretty good. Doesn't show outside frame rails above where it goes over the rear end. It should be flat there, often there is a goose egg on each side that comes when the car got bumped in the rear and the tips are down a little bit. Late frames have a reinforcement inside the frame there but I don't think you have one of those. Not just the small plates that bolt inside with the shocks but a permanent piece.
Looks like you have some nice stuff. Firewall is a later one.

[FrankWest]

Welcome!
WOW! That's exciting...Building the car from the ground up.....What a goal, What fun!!!!
Don't rush it, do a little at a time, enjoy each accomplishment and you will have many great years of assembling and planning....
You came to the right place....
Asked these guys on here...They will guide you..

[Ian1932]

As i tackle this job its so far been really fun. Even more fun is talking to my dad and asking him questions about how things came to be.

This grille, he bought from a swap meet, he doesnt remember how long ago. He said the guy wanted $50 dollars and he kept offering $30, the guy just wouldnt budge...He walked around for 2 days @ the meet, then, finally went back and paid the $50. He said on the way home he was sick and he was sorry he bought it! I cant imagine what the tag would be on one of these a swap meet today that is this nice.

The hood. When he was leaving for the army he was stationed somewhere in Illinois. He saw and add in a magazine about a guy in Chicago that lovered hoods. He wrapped them in paper and took them with him on the bus. When they had free time he went to the city and dropped them off. When he went back to pick them up, he met my mother that same night for the first time.

He also told me he traded a complete set of fenders to his buddy for 2 used new tires & this gas tank long ago.

Some things i ask, he doesnt remember. Some parts he says "i dont know where that came from, i didnt even know a had that".

[glennpm]

Good looking parts! This is going to be fun to watch!

[DavidG]

Nice frame. Be sure and follow 'deuce roadster's advice about checking the frame's side rails to the top of the kick up for the rear axle, It is a relatively common occurrence with all but late '32 frames and it may be more severe on one side than the other. It is quite fixable should your frame be so afflicted.

Judging from the weld and the shape of the flange on the end compared to your unpainted one, your chrome-plated front cross bar is a reproduction.

Your firewall appears to be a nice one and free of extra holes judging from your photo (or perhaps they have already been filled). Rare is the unrestored '32 firewall that is extra-hole-free. My firewall record is 27 extra holes.

Good luck with your project. It looks like you have a lot of very good parts to work with.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Nice frame. Be sure and follow 'deuce roadster's advice about checking the frame's side rails to the top of the kick up for the rear axle, It is a relatively common occurrence with all but late '32 frames and it may be more severe on one side than the other. It is quite fixable should your frame be so afflicted.

Judging from the weld and the shape of the flange on the end compared to your unpainted one, your chrome-plated front cross bar is a reproduction.

Your firewall appears to be a nice one and free of extra holes judging from your photo (or perhaps they have already been filled). Rare is the unrestored '32 firewall that is extra-hole-free. My firewall record is 27 extra holes.

Good luck with your project. It looks like you have a lot of very good parts to work with.

Thanks! Im not sure if i understand the parts about the frame??? What am i looking for?

[deuce_roadster]

If you look at the outside of the frame where it goes over the rear end, that metal should be flat without any outward bumps. Often bumps are about the size of an egg if it has been hit on the rear bumper and would be right below where it changes from going up to going down toward the back tip of the frame rail before the holes for the gas tank. You might see the rubber bumper for the rear end on the bottom of the lower flange near this area.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

If you look at the outside of the frame where it goes over the rear end, that metal should be flat without any outward bumps. Often bumps are about the size of an egg if it has been hit on the rear bumper and would be right below where it changes from going up to going down toward the back tip of the frame rail before the holes for the gas tank. You might see the rubber bumper for the rear end on the bottom of the lower flange near this area.

Thanks. I should get it back tomorrow. Ill take some pictures and maybe you can look at them for me. My dad said this frame was perfect other than some pitting. I guess i havent witness to many frames without bodies to know what it should look like. Hopefully its good...

[DavidG]

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Look at the highest point of the frame immediately above where the rear axle housing would be if the rear axle was in place. Run a straight edge on the vertical side of the frame rail on either side of that high point and across the area on the side at the high point. It should be perfectly flat all the way across the surface from front to back without any outward deformation at the high point. Only in extreme cases is it noticeable just by looking at the side of the frame rail.

P.S. Unless it is extreme, it won't show up in a photograph. Try the straight edge test.

[Mart]

The frame, indeed all the parts, look really nice from where I'm sitting.

Mart.

[1952henry]

Originally Posted by Ian1932

As i tackle this job its so far been really fun. Even more fun is talking to my dad and asking him questions about how things came to be.

This grille, he bought from a swap meet, he doesnt remember how long ago. He said the guy wanted $50 dollars and he kept offering $30, the guy just wouldnt budge...He walked around for 2 days @ the meet, then, finally went back and paid the $50. He said on the way home he was sick and he was sorry he bought it! I cant imagine what the tag would be on one of these a swap meet today that is this nice.

The hood. When he was leaving for the army he was stationed somewhere in Illinois. He saw and add in a magazine about a guy in Chicago that lovered hoods. He wrapped them in paper and took them with him on the bus. When they had free time he went to the city and dropped them off. When he went back to pick them up, he met my mother that same night for the first time.

He also told me he traded a complete set of fenders to his buddy for 2 used new tires & this gas tank long ago.

Some things i ask, he doesnt remember. Some parts he says "i dont know where that came from, i didnt even know a had that".

Good price. This past summer an auction was held for an uncle's estate. Amongst other things, he had a cache of EV8 sheet metal. Some of it was NOS from the long ago closed local Ford garage. A really nice used 32 grill and shell went for $1400.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Good looking parts! This is going to be fun to watch!

Stay tuned! A lot is going to happen in a short period of time! If the weather allows...

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by 1952henry

Good price. This past summer an auction was held for an uncle's estate. Amongst other things, he had a cache of EV8 sheet metal. Some of it was NOS from the long ago closed local Ford garage. A really nice used 32 grill and shell went for $1400.

Im guessing these swap meets were in the 60' or 70's maybe? 1955 is when the hood had the lovers added.

I saw a front fender for a 32' about ten years ago a swap meet. It was so paper thin and smashed and cracked. I know people can work wonders, even i have reshaped some twisted metal that was garbage. The tag was $500 dollars! I thought"no one is going to buy that, its not even usable" While i was standing there someone bought it for $475...

[Ian1932]

It looks rusty but its not, its the shadows...Frame is sand blasted. Rained when i was 3 miles from home. Dried it with towels and fans. Hit it with flapper wheel and a wire brush. It has some really rough spots. The side facing up is the better side. All said, its nice and straight and doesnt have any repairs. Its in the basement drying for a few days and then will get some epoxy, then 30 mins later 2 coats of lightly reduced 2K. 320 scuff, then some dolphin glaze. Then some more 2K and a final 500 scuff. Then 3 light but wet coats on single stage urethane. Found serial number !!!

[deuce_roadster]

Etch it before you put epoxy primer sealer on it. Otherwise, the rust will come back.

[RalphM]

Wow! Nice parts to start a project!
At ten times that amount that grille would be a bargain. And if the gas tank is as clean inside as out it is a really nice piece. I have spent hours bringing rusty/ crusty parts back to life and these parts look like real time savers.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

Etch it before you put epoxy primer sealer on it. Otherwise, the rust will come back.

Could you point me to a product to use? Thanks!

[jim1932]

By the way, DavidG wrote the 2 volume 1932 book that you can get through the early ford v8 club, Invaluable reference. Also there is a book of the ford service bulletins that is helpful.

Be careful using Internet photos for reference as many cars that look perfectly restored are either intentionally or by error, incorrect. I have a ton of photos of my car on my smugmug page in my signature. Not swearing it is all perfectly correct, but useful for seeing how parts go together.

[jimTN]

While you are on that frame, note that the sides are also considered body finish because they are exposed between the body and running boards.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by jimTN

While you are on that frame, note that the sides are also considered body finish because they are exposed between the body and running boards.

Yep, i have a 5w coupe sitting on a really nice frame that i can reference what will be visible. Thanks!

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by jim1932

By the way, DavidG wrote the 2 volume 1932 book that you can get through the early ford v8 club, Invaluable reference. Also there is a book of the ford service bulletins that is helpful.

Be careful using Internet photos for reference as many cars that look perfectly restored are either intentionally or by error, incorrect. I have a ton of photos of my car on my smugmug page in my signature. Not swearing it is all perfectly correct, but useful for seeing how parts go together.

Thanks. I am going to buy some books soon...

[Ian1932]

My buddy has a thermo forming oven so we baked this frame @ 275 for 2 hours. Pulled it out until it was warm to the touch and shot 2 medium coats of duragloss epoxy. I waited about 30 mins and sprayed one light but wet coat of 2K. Now its in a hot box to dry for a week before i use some icing on the pits...

[Mart]

Chassis looks really nice. You seem to be taking the parts directly to a finished state. Not criticising, but many people (myself included) will dry build the car first, where any fitting and mismatch of parts problems can be identified and rectified, then tear it down for the finishing of all the parts and the final buildup.

It would be unfortunate to have to modify or alter parts that have already been finished to a high degree, and your prep of the frame seems to be going above and beyond what I would call normal amateur prep.

Keep it up, though, you are doing good work and demonstrating excellent techniques.

Mart.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by Mart

Chassis looks really nice. You seem to be taking the parts directly to a finished state. Not criticising, but many people (myself included) will dry build the car first, where any fitting and mismatch of parts problems can be identified and rectified, then tear it down for the finishing of all the parts and the final buildup.

It would be unfortunate to have to modify or alter parts that have already been finished to a high degree, and your prep of the frame seems to be going above and beyond what I would call normal amateur prep.

Keep it up, though, you are doing good work and demonstrating excellent techniques.

Mart.

The body is together on another frame with the doors on it, the frame it is on is really really rough but it also has never been cut or welded. The deck lit was on it years ago. The hood that i have was also part of this car. Painting is the easiest parts for me, so, im going for it! Im sure i will run into something but i really want to get this done while my father is around. I want to have a drive-able car that is in finish paint. I have all the running gear ready to bring to my house and prep hopefully in a week or 2.

[DavidG]

Mart,

Do you mean to tell me that they don't always go back together as planned? My word, I've never heard of such a thing. (Heard, perhaps not, but experienced, yes, nearly every time.)

[Ian1932]

Grill shell and hood component ready for a final cut with 500 and them topcoat unless i for whatever reason need to build it a little more. Frame is almost all iced and should be ready for final 2K priming on Sat. I have running gear that im going to be prepping for paint. I do need to straighten a couple radius rods. Pretty excited to see the seats! they are supposed to be done early next week...

[JSeery]

Looking good!

[Ian1932]

So...I went hunting running gear...Everything is such a pain in the rear to get to. So i just stole the it from the 5w. The frame on this car is so perfect as far as rust goes. It does have some cuts where my dad made some mods. Remember he was a kid when he had these cars and they probably were not rare. He wanted hot rods to im sure @ one time in his life. I should have use this frame but im going to need to weld on the 5w body and the doors close and fit so nice i dont want to move it. I did take take all bits and pcs of the running gear and motor mounts. I do have everything to make another rolling chasis @ a later date. Plus, i really wanted the drop axle for the roadster. He must have added the tube shocks in the rear at some point, im not going to use those. Im still debating on the later brakes...I hope i can find enough "stuff". I found a box with about 12 pairs front spindles...Didnt see any backing plates but im sure they are somewhere....Frame is ready for final primer. Hopefully it will be in final paint in a week or so. Weather depending..

[zzlegend]

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Been following your post Ian. Work looks very nice. Good luck with it.

[Ian1932]

Something Painted Finally !!!!

[mfagan]

Making great progress!!

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by mfagan

Making great progress!!

Thanks

[FlatheadTed]

Wow I can see you can paint alright ,I like the color

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

Wow I can see you can paint alright ,I like the color

Thanks for the compliment! There are only 2 things i like more than spraying paint

1. Natural blondes
2. Spraying Clear coat

[Ian1932]

Finally a frame ready for a final cut and then final paint!

[Pat/Ohio]

That frame looks really nice! Should finish great! Thanks for bringing us along! Pat

[Ian1932]

Seats are done! Girl did a really nice job and she was half the cost of everyone else! Really happy with it! Also, spent all last night sandblasting stuff. Takes forever with a baby blaster and cabinet....

[noel_808]

Ian, this is what it's about, building cars with family and seeing results. Can't wait to see the final product, whoever is doing the work, top notch

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by noel_808

Ian, this is what it's about, building cars with family and seeing results. Can't wait to see the final product, whoever is doing the work, top notch

Thanks! I assure you will be doing ALL the work with the exception of the seats getting covered...Thanks for watching and the compliments!

[Ian1932]

Fun this to come across on Christmas morning!

NOS V8 Rad in a wooden crate that will go in this car.

A new muffler. Not sure if this is NOS or not. Box looks really old though...

[Ian1932]

Sorry, i cant cant take enough pictures of this...New Seagull grey and fresh Urethane...I just screwed it all together and successfully painted the hoods today...

[TagMan]

You've seem to have made more progress in the month you've been posting, than I have in a year - I'm sooooooo jealous ! I envy your enthusian, energy and talent you obviously have. I've been working on mine for over 6-years, but life seems to thwart me every once in a while.

Just a caution, if you don't mind. Don't let the project become "work" or you'll wear yourself out. The destination will be wonderful to behold, but enjoy the ride, too !

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by TagMan

You've seem to have made more progress in the month you've been posting, than I have in a year - I'm sooooooo jealous ! I envy your enthusian, energy and talent you obviously have. I've been working on mine for over 6-years, but life seems to thwart me every once in a while.

Just a caution, if you don't mind. Don't let the project become "work" or you'll wear yourself out. The destination will be wonderful to behold, but enjoy the ride, too !

Thanks for the compliments! I know im driving @ this pretty hard. It just needs to be done this way. Im sure i will stay motivated. I normally stay are target once i decide to do something...Thanks for watching...

[Ian1932]

Dry hood backs...

['36 5W]

Dang, that paint seems to flow out nicely, if you are not color sanding. Are you using single stage urethane? What is the color called? OEM color?

What a wonderful gift that will be going "full circle"!

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by '36 5W

Dang, that paint seems to flow out nicely, if you are not color sanding. Are you using single stage urethane? What is the color called? OEM color?

What a wonderful gift that will be going "full circle"!

Its sorta close to "winterleaf brown" I have the formula if your interested

Its PPG single stage urethane with their cheapo line of reducer and catalyst. I found the trick with urethane, clear also, is run the pressure to the gun a little high on the first coat to make sure there is zero orange peel, then as soon as you can touch it with the back side of your hand, lay down a heavy coat just on the edge of it running if it were vertical @ normal pressure. The grill shell and hood pcs i did this way. No rubbing on these parts. Also, buy an Euro version of the devillbiss FLG-5, best gun money can buy in my opinion. If you have ever sprayed urethane clear, its almost like spraying that. The clear does flow a little better. Also, always spray warm metal, that helps too.

[rotorwrench]

I used to use the PPG Deltron some years back. More recently I used some PPG Concept urethane and it was a lot like Deltron. It flows better than most and pretty much stays flat on vertical surfaces as long as a person doesn't put it on too thick. I always liked the PPG stuff but it was harder to get here in SA so I just used Imron. Even Imron has changed though since Axalta took it over. It's not as reliable as it used to be. I've heard that PPG was considering dropping the concept stuff. I hope it stays around a while longer. It's getting harder to find a decent single stage urethane.

['36 5W]

Good tips for urethane users who can't stand color sanding, Ian. It seems to be as hard as old Imron! (I'm weighing the pros and cons vs. enamel. Not fond of isocyanates either.)

When convenient, I would be interested in your color mix; looks very close to Winterleaf.

[Ian1932]

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Originally Posted by '36 5W

Good tips for urethane users who can't stand color sanding, Ian. It seems to be as hard as old Imron! (I'm weighing the pros and cons vs. enamel. Not fond of isocyanates either.)

When convenient, I would be interested in your color mix; looks very close to Winterleaf.

Here you go. Also, if you go to PPG and get paint code #986, it will NOT look like this. They put in on the can but they had matched a cowl vent that was already painted. They did mix some of the #986 (the formula in their system) at first but it was a real olive brown look.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I used to use the PPG Deltron some years back. More recently I used some PPG Concept urethane and it was a lot like Deltron. It flows better than most and pretty much stays flat on vertical surfaces as long as a person doesn't put it on too thick. I always liked the PPG stuff but it was harder to get here in SA so I just used Imron. Even Imron has changed though since Axalta took it over. It's not as reliable as it used to be. I've heard that PPG was considering dropping the concept stuff. I hope it stays around a while longer. It's getting harder to find a decent single stage urethane.

This is my first time using the concept single stage urethane...Im liking it! I hope they dont quit making it...

[Ian1932]

Just cleaning and prepping the shiny stuff...Not sure why these lights had black paint all over them but it was a son of a to get it off...

['36 5W]

Old stainless and nickel chrome sure cleans up nicely, doesn't it?
Oddly enough, the black paint on the top half of the headlights may have been a remnant from the blackouts of W.W.2. Although much more common in Europe for both military and civilian vehicles, after Pearl Harbor, coastal cities of the U.S. were becoming fearful of invasion by both Japan and Germany.

Thanks for the paint formula and heads up......

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by '36 5W

Old stainless and nickel chrome sure cleans up nicely, doesn't it?
Oddly enough, the black paint on the top half of the headlights may have been a remnant from the blackouts of W.W.2. Although much more common in Europe for both military and civilian vehicles, after Pearl Harbor, coastal cities of the U.S. were becoming fearful of invasion by both Japan and Germany.

Thanks for the paint formula and heads up......

After reading about the blackouts, there is without a doubt what this was for! Awesome pc of history! I had to soak the lenses in lacquer thinner all day to get that paint off and it was done so sloppy it ran all through the ring. After the war they probably tried to clean and just opted it easier to get new ones...Thanks for bringing that up, my dad will love to hear about that. He bought these lights at a swap meet in 1968. There was a note in the box...

[rotorwrench]

Methylene chloride (paint stripper) removes paint without affecting the bright work if you ever have to do it again. You are fortunate to have such nice original stuff to work with. The hardest part to find on the head lamps is the old original through connector sockets where the harness conduit connects. Originals were Bakelite and worked well but the reproduction stuff is mostly junk. I just wished some one made the replacement parts for the old Ford lamps like Ford made them.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Methylene chloride (paint stripper) removes paint without affecting the bright work if you ever have to do it again. You are fortunate to have such nice original stuff to work with. The hardest part to find on the head lamps is the old original through connector sockets where the harness conduit connects. Originals were Bakelite and worked well but the reproduction stuff is mostly junk. I just wished some one made the replacement parts for the old Ford lamps like Ford made them.

Im not complaining at all that have a selection of real ford parts to choose what one i want to use...It is really nice and i am very fortunate. I think these sockets that have a single bulb i can re-use. I should be able to just solder some modern wires without getting any on the little spring mech??? One set is missing the little spring tabs. Not sure if just a new one is a better option???

I know the stripper would have been easiest but it was late and i didnt have any,haha.

[Ian1932]

So, Im guessing when the car is done i need to take it to an upholstery shop and have them sew this together and cut the rear window hole? It also has what looks like little rusty residue dots on the majority of the canvas. Do you think i could get this dry cleaned?

[DavidG]

As the top material is rubber lined, I would specifically alert your dry cleaner to that fact to avoid it being damaged by the cleaning agents they use.

Having just finished installing a top on a roadster, it appears in your photos that you have everything you need to do it yourself, except tacks and instructions. Armed with both those, it isn't all that difficult to do it yourself. I've a spare set of instructions from LeBaron Bonney which you are welcome to.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

As the top material is rubber lined, I would specifically alert your dry cleaner to that fact to avoid it being damaged by the cleaning agents they use.

Having just finished installing a top on a roadster, it appears in your photos that you have everything you need to do it yourself, except tacks and instructions. Armed with both those, it isn't all that difficult to do it yourself. I've a spare set of instructions from LeBaron Bonney which you are welcome to.

Thanks for the tips! I would love the instructions! Thank you

[Ian1932]

refurbished sockets and wires...

[Anton Voycheck]

Wow. That is great!!! Good luck with the projects.
Your father is very generous; thank him everyday.
My folks never gave me anything but a hard time.
Great work.



Voycheck

[Ian1932]

Went well but nothing to brag about, they are flat surfaces...

['36 5W]

Nonetheless, they appear to be peel free.
Are you finishing with your second, heavy coat you spoke of previously, or do you apply
a third coat?

[hotrodA]

WOW!
You're making amazing progress.
My Tudor is kicking my butt.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by '36 5W

Nonetheless, they appear to be peel free.
Are you finishing with your second, heavy coat you spoke of previously, or do you apply
a third coat?

These are flat surfaces so you naterally tend to lay on a little more than if it were vertical.

Im not sure how many lbs are @ the gun because euro FLG 5 has the little regulator at the bottom. So im kinda going by sound & feel. Yes to your question about like I said before. Im guessing 40 lbs at the gun for the first coat, even and wet. Then drop the pressure to about 33 ? When i can glide the back of my fingers over the edges without it sticking, they spray another coat. 2 coats total, fan opened all the way up to max, nice overlaps. overlaps are important more so because if you have one pass where you have some heavy orange peel youll need to re-coat again with a 3. Avoid that or the millage will be to much to lay all that paint on with out some dry time.
Also, my buddy has an "walk in" oven for bending plastic that i warm the pcs up first, warm metal helps. Not HOT metal, warm metal...

In the end i guess i probably make a couple more passes with the gun. Maybe if it would take 12 pass to get across a panel, i might do it in 18. Im not sure if i actually putting on more paint or not because the speed in which i make the passes is greater.

Next time i spray something ill have some video it with my phone so you can see. Because you sound really interested and maybe your about to paint things soon?

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by hotrodA

WOW!
You're making amazing progress.
My Tudor is kicking my butt.

Thanks! I am trying really hard to get this done in a short amount of time. I try to do one thing every day. Clean something, read something, prep something, learn something, etc. I realized there are so many things that at some point need to be done. Like the seats, they are ready to bolt in, the lights are all ready. Once the weather cooperates and I can build a chassis, I'll have stuff that's ready. I am certain that I'm going to need to make adjustments and need to re-paint something. I feel for me, it would be faster to go for it than to assemble the car and take it apart again. I sure hope that's minimal. With modern paint, it's so easy to repair and feather. Painting and prepping for me is the cake part when it comes to time spent. Things like setting up brakes and setting up cables and wires is going to really slow me down. I'm really depending on the guys on this site. At some point I'll be asking "what should I do now", when assembly starts. Thanks for watching!

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by Ian1932

Went well but nothing to brag about, they are flat surfaces...

Great work. That color is great.

You said close to "Winterleaf Brown"? Looks fabulous.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by TonyM

Great work. That color is great.

You said close to "Winterleaf Brown"? Looks fabulous.

Thank you! Color is not an exact match to winterleaf brown, but, it is close!

[Ian1932]

"Fenders in the attic"

[DavidG]

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Darn nice looking fenders from what I can see in your photos.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Darn nice looking fenders from what I can see in your photos.

Yeah, they are really nice. I remember when i was in 3rd grade +or- my mother would send me up there to get the Christmas ornaments and my dad would be down there "Hey, be careful around those fenders, dont stand on them!!!" That was about 33 or 35 years ago!

['36 5W]

Originally Posted by Ian1932

These are flat surfaces so you naterally tend to lay on a little more than if it were vertical.

Next time i spray something ill have some video it with my phone so you can see. Because you sound really interested and maybe your about to paint things soon?

If and when it's convenient for you, by all means; but don't take away from
your great progress!
(I'm a hack, trying to teach myself and I like your "no peel method". Still, its
all about practice, practice.......)

[Ian1932]

Sandblasting, priming, sandblasting and priming some more, then painting and on and on for now...

I will never paint wheels with spokes again if i can avoid it...That was the most difficult thing i have ever done...

Toilet bowl cleaner does work well to clean the inside of a tank. Takes about 6 hours and rust is gone on the inside. Now i will sand blast the outside...

[glennpm]

Hi Ian,

Nice job on the wire wheels! I hear you on never doing them again. I painted some of mine many a couple of decades ago and used a Touch-up spray gun and one part paint so no sanding after paint was required. They were a real pain to do.

A couple of years ago they needed to be done again. I had them powder coated this time. First time the guy missed a few spots on two of them and told me to look at them after he was done. He did them over with no complaint and they were perfect this time.

How many jugs of the toilet bowl cleaner did you use? Did you dilute it and did you fill the tank?

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Hi Ian,

Nice job on the wire wheels! I hear you on never doing them again. I painted some of mine many a couple of decades ago and used a Touch-up spray gun and one part paint so no sanding after paint was required. They were a real pain to do.

A couple of years ago they needed to be done again. I had them powder coated this time. First time the guy missed a few spots on two of them and told me to look at them after he was done. He did them over with no complaint and they were perfect this time.

How many jugs of the toilet bowl cleaner did you use? Did you dilute it and did you fill the tank?

I had 2 bottles. I swished it around and because its kinda thick you only need to do it every half hour or so. Put it upside down for a little, then on its ends, then right side up. I drained it back into a container and rinse it and swished it with a garden hose. Then, put 2 gallons of hot tap water in and swished and shook about 5 or 6 times. The last 2 times i put a little smidgen of dish soap in it. I lastly put it on top of my wood stove and cooked the moisture out of it as quickly as possible. Seems to not have flash rusted except where 2 pcs of metal lap each-other. I am happy with the results. It wasnt really bad, but, if it were im confident if you let it in there longer it would continue to work.

The wheels i missed spots and got a couple of runs. I had to go back and spray more touch-up paint and sand out runs and then rub out the marks. They actually look really good but it was a lot of work no doubt...

[glennpm]

Good, thanks Ian

[DavidG]

If there is ever a next time, make up a simple rotisserie using a motor from an old barbecue. That slow rotation will eliminate runs and enable you to get both excellent coverage and flow out.

[glennpm]

Great tip David.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

If there is ever a next time, make up a simple rotisserie using a motor from an old barbecue. That slow rotation will eliminate runs and enable you to get both excellent coverage and flow out.

Good idea...I have an old K car hub from an old trailer, all the studs were broke but one. I spun it on there but by hand. I would have be much easier to have it motorized no doubt...

[Ian1932]

Sand blasted, primed & painted...

[Ian1932]

Yesterday after work...

[Ian1932]

Tank is done...

[glennpm]

Beautiful job!

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Beautiful job!

Thanks much!

[Ken Crans]

Welcome to the Barn Ian, I also paint,what kind of gun are you using? Ken

['36 5W]

And still no orange peel. You certainly have found a technique that works for you.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by Ken Crans

Welcome to the Barn Ian, I also paint,what kind of gun are you using? Ken

Nice paint job!

Gravity feed Euro FLG-5 Devilbiss

https://www.carlisleft.eu/library/de...g5_euro_EN.pdf

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by '36 5W

And still no orange peel. You certainly have found a technique that works for you.

Thanks! I was going to film this but i didnt have anyone to hold my phone...

[Ian1932]

Getting ready to bring the body to my house. Sadly the phone with my pictures of painting got lost...I filled in the taillight holes that my dad had cut in years ago.

I revived this old post in case anyone was curious about the beginnings of this adventure.

Question = Since this in an open car, what do you all recommend i do when i load this on a trailer? I maybe should cut wood blocks to have at-least 4 contact points on the surface of the trailer? Its a smooth ride with one set of train tracks ill need to go over. Thanks

[DavidG]

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Four should be adequate; two at the cowl feet and two right before the rear wheel house kick uo thick enough so that the pan beneath the front seat clears the floor of the trailer. I'd screw the blocks through the cowl feet holes and the side holes in the rear so that they don't shift in transit.

[Pat/Ohio]

I wonder what "mommy" would say if those cushions behind you disappeared for a little while! Good luck, Pat

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by Pat/Ohio

I wonder what "mommy" would say if those cushions behind you disappeared for a little while! Good luck, Pat

Yep, she gave them to me for this reason...lol