Phaeton top saddle holes

[Arlen]

I'm reading in the JS and they state that the standard phaetons had rubber plugs filling the top saddle holes. What did these look like and where can I get a set that looks close? Thanks.

[al's28/33]

I think any ACE hardware or Home Depot might carry them. You can get rubber plugs, plastic or metal type.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's a good original plug. Wish I had another one.
I used my vernier caliper to make the blueprint for it.

I checked with Metro Rubber in the Twin Cities and they don't have any plugs close to it. They want a couple thousand dollars to make a short run, if I want them to.

[Arlen]

Same here really. I've checked with Ace, Home Depot etc for a plug that looked basically like that. Even checked some major rubber suppliers for something close. Can't find anything like it. I had thought maybe the mushroom shaped rubber plug from the open car door rubber kit but it was too small.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Just make it yourself. Make a plug out of wood, Bondo, or whatever and then cast a mould out of something similar to Kwik-Poly. It seems like I purchased everything I needed from a place called SmoothOn or SmoothIt (don't have time to Google it at the moment) but I am sure there are other places that sell urethane rubber in two-part mixing form. Bob Johnson also has WAY more experience than I with this and maybe he will chime in and offer some tips.

.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Did Model T's use a rubber plug in their top saddle hole?

If so, I wonder if it would be the same?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Did Model T's use a rubber plug in their top saddle hole?

If so, I wonder if it would be the same?

No Tom, they all came with the saddle & stem, and no plug. I have always thought this was Ford's way of making his consumer pay extra over the price of the car.

[peters180a/170b]

Did you cross reference with what Steels rubber Products might have??? ALL the rubber kits for 180A doors "SUCK" and are way off no matter who you buy them from.GARBAGE ! So i crossed reference most of the rubber parts with them and guess what,"FORD" was not the only car manufacturer to use them .BRIGGS made the bodies and use the same rubber parts as a 1928/29 Chevy tudor... Only 1 part needed some work..But you had a GOOD start...

[Tom Wesenberg]

OK, now what happened to MikeK's posting?

I bought the closest rubber plug I could find at Metro Rubber and I just chucked it into my lathe and tried sandpaper and a file to see if I could flatten it some. Neither one worked. I may try my Dremel with a grinding stone.

[mass A man]

Arlen, If it's at all possible, go over to your local small airport and ask about that plug. One of the guys there should be able to help out with a parts book with grommets. I seem to recall seeing that exact plug used on a Cessna or another popular small aircraft.--Pete.

[barnstuf]

I am the second owner of a 1929 Phaeton. The original owner never folded the top. I have never folded the top. The holes for the saddle arms have metal plugs. Based on what the original owner told me I feel they are original. Maybe a 30-31 used rubber plugs but the original post did not indicate year of car.

[Rowdy]

Rusty, you might contact Bob Johnson for some ideas on how to make a mold and some advice on which do it yourself rubber products work to make them yourself. Bob made some real nice repop rubber parts about 6 years ago in a small run. Rod

[Tom Wesenberg]

I just checked ebay for 1" plugs and this is the closest, but very much overpriced.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370641537480...84.m1438.l2649

Might need to keep an eye open at the junk yards.

BTW, I saw the humor in Mike's blueprint and wish he had left it up. I haven't done a blueprint like that since I was in drafting class in high school.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Tom, what happens if you freeze the rubber and then try to machine it?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Tom, what happens if you freeze the rubber and then try to machine it?

My lathe is too heavy to cary out of the basement to outside.

I could never get it chucked before it was roon temp again would be my guess.

BTW, I just measured my Phaeton saddle hole and it's 7/8" diameter, so the plug I pictured seems to be at least 1/8" small than what I'd think would have been used.

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Here's a good original plug. Wish I had another one.
I used my vernier caliper to make the blueprint for it.

I checked with Metro Rubber in the Twin Cities and they don't have any plugs close to it. They want a couple thousand dollars to make a short run, if I want them to.

Tom,....did you happen to check the top radius,....with a radius gauge??

Thanks, Dudley

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Tom,....did you happen to check the top radius,....with a radius gauge??

Thanks, Dudley

No, but it looks a little different from the ones on the two high points cars I've seen, so I'm still trying to find an original blueprint of the plug.

[Synchro909]

If I were wanting any of those, I'd make a metal one on my lathe and use silicone rubber to make a mould from it, then 2 part polyurethane with black pigment to make the grommets. A bit fiddley but you get what you want.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

If I were wanting any of those, I'd make a metal one on my lathe and use silicone rubber to make a mould from it, then 2 part polyurethane with black pigment to make the grommets. A bit fiddley but you get what you want.

That's exactly my intent, but I want to be sure of the correct size before making a mold.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

If I were wanting any of those, I'd make a metal one on my lathe and use silicone rubber to make a mould from it, then 2 part polyurethane with black pigment to make the grommets. A bit fiddley but you get what you want.

A good thought indeed. I am waiting until the next time I am up at the Archives, then I am going to pull the blueprint and get the original dimensions where I can make a small run of them. I have found that 'reverse engineering' tends to create authentic issues so for my needs, I am going to get the print. Very well may use the services of the new 3D printer for making my pattern.