steering arm balls

[a-bone newby]

after reading the thread about steering balls I am wondering about replacing the four ball studs myself is there a problem with this idea or faults with welding them in? is it a no no or what?

[Charlie Stephens]

I admire your ability. I know that for something this important I would take (or send) them to a certified welder that knew what they were doing. The life you save may be yours.

Charlie Stephens

[wrndln]

If I were you, I would have A&L Parts Specialties or Wiley Higgins in Georgia replace them. Both places sweat the new balls on and TIG weld them for good measure. I don't believe this is a job for an amateur to do - too important for part(s) due to safety. I suspect you could do it yourself, but for the price, I think it would be penny wise and pound foolish to risk it. Just my opinion.
Rusty Nelson

[a-bone newby]

first trade for me was welding before becoming a mechanic but any info is appreciated. just bought a tig welder for 'A" repairs have to weld the frame going with 6011 rods sound good to yous

[edmondclinton]

Some sort of complained in other thread about the time it takes to file them round after welding them up but it didn't seem to take me too long. And if you make a mistake you can add a little weld in just a jiffy. The ball does not turn or wear 360 degrees so you can use the unworn area as a reference point.

If you install new balls, the weldor must have a thorough knowledge and ability for what he is doing.

Personally, I never liked to butcher or weld the base area up like that to change to a new ball and with my method, feel a certain comfort in knowing that the original forging in the base/stem area is maintained and unmolested.

[Ford1931]

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If you are comfortable welding, I would buy the new ball studs and do it myself. When I did mine over ten years ago, I just cut the old ball off near the arm and drilled a hole through the arm. I tried to get a tight enough fit to have to press it in. I welded both sides and filed and ground them until they looked nice. Let the weld cool on its own. Doing it this way is very strong and should cause you no problems. You can also follow edmondclinton's suggestions which should work fine also.

[Tom Wesenberg]

"Personally, I never liked to butcher or weld the base area up like that to change to a new ball and with my method, feel a certain comfort in knowing that the original forging in the base/stem area is maintained and unmolested. "

That's right, and that's why I'd send them to A&L. They use a hollow mill to remove the worn part, but leave the original shaft in place. The replacement ball with a hole the size of the original shaft is pressed onto the arm and welded at the end. No original integrity is compromised.

[Tom Endy]

My opinion is that the way A&L refurbished the steering arm ball is the safe way to go. Bratton's also offer the A&L reworked steering arms.

The steering arms that have failed over the years were done by sawing the ball and shank off and drilling a hole in the arm. A new ball and shank is inserted into the hole and welded in place. Here is where you hope the welder knew what he was doing.

There were a number of horror stories reported in years past where the steering failed. It was about that time that Walt Bratton discontinued carrying the replacement ball and shank. He did not want to be a party to a law suit. He then began carrying the A&L product. That is the only one I would use.

Tom Endy

[edmondclinton]

[QUOTE=Tom Wesenberg;1024923]"Personally, I never liked to butcher or weld the base area up like that to change to a new ball and with my method, feel a certain comfort in knowing that the original forging in the base/stem area is maintained and unmolested. "

That's right, and that's why I'd send them to A&L. They use a hollow mill to remove the worn part, but leave the original shaft in place. The replacement ball with a hole the size of the original shaft is pressed onto the arm and welded at the end. No original integrity is compromised.[/QUOTE


So they weld it on the top of the ball and then grind it smooth?

How much does all this cost?


I weld mine up with the expense of a few 6013 rods and a little electricity; practically no expense at all. Also, it seems that a ball pushed down on the stem would not be as strong as the ball connected as continuous metal as part of the stem or in other words, the solid forging.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Actually the ball is only as strong as the smallest diameter, and that's where the ball meets the arm, and that's what A&L leaves fully intact. Bratton's has the same thing for $35 exchange.

[edmondclinton]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Actually the ball is only as strong as the smallest diameter, and that's where the ball meets the arm, and that's what A&L leaves fully intact. Bratton's has the same thing for $35 exchange.

A radius where the base of the original ball joins the stem as continuous metal is stronger than otherwise as it is with a ball with a hole in it just pushed down on the stem. Probably not much.