Replacing Light Switch Rod

[Rowdy]

I know that the light switch rod assembly is only sold as a whole piece. Was wondering if just the rod is available, so a person could just replace the rod, rebuild the horn switch and wire and use the original button and handle? Maybe I am missing it somewhere, but have several decent light switch levers and horn buttons attached to broken rods. This would be for the 28-29 style. I have a couple of usable 30-31 length light swith rods with levers and buttons. Were the 28-29 styles more likely to break off? Rod

[Mark W.]

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102270

My solution is about 3 posts into this link - still working but I did have to do a little fitting to get it right.

[Bruce_MO]

I had one break off around 6" from the bottom after I took it to the plater. Since the original was really nice and the plating was perfect, I decided to splice it with a section from another $5 swap meet horn rod. I think trying to replace the whole rod by unsoldering the rod from the pot metal switch lever is much more difficult. I made a sleeve about 4" long on my lathe that would slip into the two sections (bored thru so the horn wire can pass thru) so I could weld everything together. Well, my welding skills weren't so good. So I trimmed everything up and turned my sleeve down a little bit smaller in diameter and used JB Weld to put it all together. It worked great.

Some key points...
1) Be sure to have an exact measurement of the finished length that you're shooting for
2) Clean the insides of the rod sections to be spliced as best you can... probably rusty
3) Make sure that the JB Weld doesn't get into the hole in the sleeve that the horn wire must pass thru
4) Chamfer the upper end of the hole in the sleeve so that the horn wire can be easily fed thru the sleeve
5) Use a Vee-block to make sure the spliced sections remain straight while JB Weld cures

Give it a try...

[Rowdy]

Thanks for the ideas. I have kept a few of the broken rods which were broke off right at the top. Will measure to see if any are long enough to cut for the 44" rod. May be able to sleeve it right at the the base of the light switch. Rod

[d.j. moordigian]

Rod,

Make sure it's "clocked", you know, "timed" correctly..

Dudley

[Rowdy]

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Dudley, Thanks for the reminder. Was looking at this alittle bit ago and it looks like the seam lines up with the handle of the switch. Also the 3 broken ones that were in a small pile of stuff at an auction several years ago must have been flathead era as all 3 are several inches longer than any used on an A. Should easily be able to cut to length. Will look things over more on Friday, but atleast a plan is taking shape. Rod

[Brianfrench65]

Related question.....is it possible / practical to mark - cut - then sleeve a perfectly good light switch rod, to change the steering wheel in a closed car?

Thank You; Brian

[Rowdy]

I for one would not cut one. Hard enough to fix that I would not think it practical. Just one persons opinion. Rod

[CarlG]

Not that difficult to lower the column or even take the whole shebang out. I would think you would be opening a can of worms by cutting the rod and then trying to "fix" what wasn't broke in the first place.

[Brianfrench65]

Thank you for some very good advise.

So......split the clamp under the tank, remove the steering arm, remove spark and gas rods then the 2 steering box to chassis bolts.

That's a plan. Thank You.